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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
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Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-10-2017, 11:22 AM   #166
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thats good info that the spares are making their way out there.

Well this is funny. Tower hobbies has raised the price of the EB48.4 . If I recall correctly it was 549.99 yesterday or the day before, now showing up at 569.99
Fierce is currently out of stock, but he was $470 shipped after using the codes.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:59 PM   #167
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Yep Cain you are right. It has gone up $20 overnight.

Still heaps bit cheaper than the HB E817 at $659 which is ridiculous.
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What. The. Heck!!!! I had it in my cart yesterday but didn't pull the trigger. Bummer
When I called tower and told them the price on the manfucturers site was less then their's they said they would match and and the discounts,etc would still apply so I would give them a call.
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:19 PM   #168
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This kit looks like it comes pretty much loaded. I can't tell or I should say confirm wether it comes with aluminum vented shock caps or not? Also the center diff bulkhead braces which looks to be composite? I am not an 8th scale racer but with our local facility having a huge outdoor 8th scale track I definetly want TP partake this season.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:56 PM   #169
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This kit looks like it comes pretty much loaded. I can't tell or I should say confirm wether it comes with aluminum vented shock caps or not? Also the center diff bulkhead braces which looks to be composite? I am not an 8th scale racer but with our local facility having a huge outdoor 8th scale track I definetly want TP partake this season.

The new shock caps are aluminum and can be built for emulsion, bladder vented and bladder sealed. It comes with O-rings to build the shocks as emulsion. You will need to only buy bladders if you wish to build either of the bladder builds. The single shock cap will accommodate all 3 builds.

The 4 piece center diff mount is composite (3 pieces) and aluminum (the motor mount), which works well as is. You can optionally buy the 3 other pieces in aluminum if you want a full aluminum center diff mount.
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:29 PM   #170
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Cut 1 cm of "tooth picker" sharp side connect to screw, then slide micro o-rings in place.
Great tip, thanks!!!
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:47 PM   #171
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The new shock caps are aluminum and can be built for emulsion, bladder vented and bladder sealed. It comes with O-rings to build the shocks as emulsion. You will need to only buy bladders if you wish to build either of the bladder builds. The single shock cap will accommodate all 3 builds.

The 4 piece center diff mount is composite (3 pieces) and aluminum (the motor mount), which works well as is. You can optionally buy the 3 other pieces in aluminum if you want a full aluminum center diff mount.
Thank you for your help
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:44 AM   #172
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.

I noticed the inside of my front wheels rubbing on something, I was thinking that it was the front side of the outer hinge pin, but the scrape marks inside the wheel were pretty smooth so I think it may be somewhere else. I cant get it to rub on the bench but it is really close in a few spots so I imagine its happening when the wheels are flexing some.
A couple of times I had a weird thing happen that I cant figure out, the buggy would dart off in one direction (mostly to the right IIRC) a couple of times it was while i was on the brakes, and a couple under acceleration. I cant tell if it was because of the bump steer or a by product of the front wheels rubbing on something.
Here Is some pictures of what I am talking about with the front wheels rubbing on the outer hinge pin.
I am using DE Speedline Plus wheels, and I measured the I.D. to be around 80.5mm. I measured some AKA I had (79.5) and JC (78.5) so they have the largest inner diameter of the wheels I currently have at least.
I could move the hub spacer to the other side, but that will lengthen my wheelbase and change my ackerman. I was also thinking I could grind down the thread a bit for a little more clearance.
Anyone else notice this?
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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread-20170109_193934.jpg   Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread-20170109_194007.jpg  
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:50 AM   #173
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Here Is some pictures of what I am talking about with the front wheels rubbing on the outer hinge pin.
I am using DE Speedline Plus wheels, and I measured the I.D. to be around 80.5mm. I measured some AKA I had (79.5) and JC (78.5) so they have the largest inner diameter of the wheels I currently have at least.
I could move the hub spacer to the other side, but that will lengthen my wheelbase and change my ackerman. I was also thinking I could grind down the thread a bit for a little more clearance.
Anyone else notice this?
Moving the hub spacer won't change how much of the thread sticks out there anyways. I would just grind the threads down until they're flush with the top of the nut.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:09 AM   #174
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Moving the hub spacer won't change how much of the thread sticks out there anyways. I would just grind the threads down until they're flush with the top of the nut.
No but it will move the hub/wheel further away from there.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:37 AM   #175
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The first time I saw that double nut front pin design I thought why didn't they make a pin with a flat head on one end and the nut on the other end? It would give at least 2mm of extra clearance. I guess you can red locktite a regular nut on one side and cut the threads off flush.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:54 AM   #176
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My .4 was just delivered yesterday....had a little help putting it together from Joe Bornhorst....guy can put a kit together fast enough to make your head spin!!! lol

Can't wait to get the electronics finished up and run it. First Tekno kit for me and I am impressed with everything from the manual to the overall quality of the parts. Well done Tekno!!!
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:49 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Here Is some pictures of what I am talking about with the front wheels rubbing on the outer hinge pin.
I am using DE Speedline Plus wheels, and I measured the I.D. to be around 80.5mm. I measured some AKA I had (79.5) and JC (78.5) so they have the largest inner diameter of the wheels I currently have at least.
I could move the hub spacer to the other side, but that will lengthen my wheelbase and change my ackerman. I was also thinking I could grind down the thread a bit for a little more clearance.
Anyone else notice this?
Shoot Lutz an email. He will have the fix. They do make some thin locknuts. That would allow you to grind off a couple mm. Should not be dealing with this on a new buggy though.
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:53 PM   #178
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Shoot Lutz an email. He will have the fix. They do make some thin locknuts. That would allow you to grind off a couple mm. Should not be dealing with this on a new buggy though.
Curious what wheels they were using during testing as I am assuming they didn't see this issue.

Sounds like first run teething issues however. Could be worse ...
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:27 PM   #179
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Maybe these will work?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...715001/p176923
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:00 PM   #180
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Curious what wheels they were using during testing as I am assuming they didn't see this issue.

Sounds like first run teething issues however. Could be worse ...
You got that right At this point I call it a minor issue. If no other problems crop up I don't think I would worry much about it.
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