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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

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Old 01-11-2018, 05:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: billdelong
Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks
Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-08-2017, 03:55 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by MX304
1900KV, 4S, 5000mah
Thank you much appreciated. I have not raced true 8th scale thus 8th buggy or truly as I have always been a 10th scale fella. Anyhow I have seen the great fun the 8th scale buggy and truggy racers have at our local outdoor race facility, thus I plan on joining the fun. Going to purchase this buggy.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:14 PM
  #137  
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Looks like tower got a bunch more in, and has that tower cash going on right now too.

Tempting just so far out from the start of anything but darn tempting
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Looks like tower got a bunch more in, and has that tower cash going on right now too.

Tempting just so far out from the start of anything but darn tempting
Totally Agree with you Cain. OH! Your old DESC410 is running dialed. Just put a new HW XR8 SCT pro, and HW G2 4300KV (short can) in her.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:18 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Norse
Totally Agree with you Cain. OH! Your old DESC410 is running dialed. Just put a new HW XR8 SCT pro, and HW G2 4300KV (short can) in her.
Good stuff glad you like it!
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Old 01-08-2017, 06:41 PM
  #140  
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So the steering is more controlled as in less steering?

On my .3 I took out a defective mks 599 because it decides on its own if it when it wants to change its center, where I'm continuously needing to adjust the steering trim. Servo saver is tight and everything turns freely. Swapped it out with ko propo rsx which had no problems.

What happened was that I could drive the car harder. Much more predictable, stable, consistent and I was faster. Rotation was under greater control.

Bornhorst uses the mks 599 and for whatever reason the car was twitchy with it, at least for me. Lutz uses a super fast futaba that might be causing the same issue. Point is those two team drivers give their feedback to tekno and because of their super fast servos the cars are harder to control. Therefore the new steering on the new .4 might not have been needed. Maybe except on carpet, but I wouldn't know because there are no carpet tracks where I'm from. I may be wrong. It was a big shock to me that handling was so different from a servo change.

What I'm guessing is that because this buggy already has responsive steering, adding a responsive servo is too much. It needs balance between responsiveness and control.

BTW I spoke with mks customer service and team manager Kenny. Still waiting to get an email or call if they will service this new defective servo. They are polite and their words sound promising. Will update this week if mks is a brand that stands behind their products and if they should or shouldn't be recommended.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:32 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by latentspeed
So the steering is more controlled as in less steering?
The new .4 geometry allows it to keep the same type of turning radius as the .3 vehicle without the rear having to break free to do it at speed, and without the front scrubbing as hard, making everything more controlled and in many cases raising corner speed. It isn't a mechanical straight reduction of steering like you're thinking of (which is what the steering stops did for the .3 vehicle).
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:40 AM
  #142  
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maybe i pick up one this year some time see how it is got be good to match the mugen i race
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
The new .4 geometry allows it to keep the same type of turning radius as the .3 vehicle without the rear having to break free to do it at speed, and without the front scrubbing as hard, making everything more controlled and in many cases raising corner speed. It isn't a mechanical straight reduction of steering like you're thinking of (which is what the steering stops did for the .3 vehicle).
That's not what I mean. A whole steering system isn't needed just to decrease steering. Just add more washers or decrease steering with your radio.On the website it says responsiveness is increased while being less edgy. Was wondering if this was achieved by having weaker steering. Like how kyoshos have less steering, but is very easy and forgiving to drive. Every brand has their own steering feel or steering identity. Schumacher has the most steering I've tested, xray second. Durango and yokomo having the most responsive.

Example would be that tekno can do tighter corners than kyosho, but it doesn't mean it is better. When comparing the .3 steering to .4 has the steering gone down a bit to gain more stability? Or does the .4 steer just as sharp and tighg, but more stable making it faster?
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Uni's and CVD's are all new, not interchangeable.
Are there new CVD's out yet? I race on a indoor smooth track and would like to try them back to back with the uni's to see which I like better. I'm really glad i saw this because i was about to buy some off eBay
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Old 01-09-2017, 05:32 AM
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I ran my .4 for the first time this weekend. Used mostly Joe's smooth track setup.

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...moothTrack.pdf

Overall I really like it, I think the setup is pretty close to where my .3 was. I was hoping to get another motor in time so I could run them back to back, but that didn't happen.

I noticed the inside of my front wheels rubbing on something, I was thinking that it was the front side of the outer hinge pin, but the scrape marks inside the wheel were pretty smooth so I think it may be somewhere else. I cant get it to rub on the bench but it is really close in a few spots so I imagine its happening when the wheels are flexing some.
A couple of times I had a weird thing happen that I cant figure out, the buggy would dart off in one direction (mostly to the right IIRC) a couple of times it was while i was on the brakes, and a couple under acceleration. I cant tell if it was because of the bump steer or a by product of the front wheels rubbing on something.

The build went really well. The shoulder screws that go thru the bearings in the new front spindles were difficult to get started threading into the plastic. The o-rings for the bleeder screws are super tiny and take some patience to get on. And the rear hubs call for and only give you a total of 5mm of shims, but with that there is a fair amount of fore/aft play so I added another 1mm shim. Everything else went smoothly.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:37 AM
  #146  
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does anyone know how the xr8 plus will fit in here i have heard they dont fit in the tekno very well?
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:28 AM
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I've been watching this thread to see what complaints or if anything is prone to breaking. Hope this proves to be a good buggy.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:19 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Are there new CVD's out yet? I race on a indoor smooth track and would like to try them back to back with the uni's to see which I like better. I'm really glad i saw this because i was about to buy some off eBay
Yeah they are out now - http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8087-...ebnb48-4-2pcs/
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:21 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by brandon32689
does anyone know how the xr8 plus will fit in here i have heard they dont fit in the tekno very well?
Page 126 of the EB48.3 thread - http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-126.html

Looks like its a tight squeeze but doable. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:42 AM
  #150  
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I have an XR8 in my .3 with no issues. It should be the same for the .4
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