R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 08-10-2017, 12:48 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree209Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-12-2017, 10:47 AM   #196
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 123
Default

As far as I can see there is no difference between the two chainsaw files show. Both are 5/32" or .1526" (3.87604mm) the #19 drill is .166" (or 4.2164mm)....so the chainsaw files are smaller by .010" or so. The #19 drill bit cleaned out more plastic than I would have thought. I tried to put the pins in after having run the drill in forward only...they went through but had a few snags. Once I ran the drill backwards....they fell right through.

Last edited by Flippin 416; 01-12-2017 at 11:02 AM.
Flippin 416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 10:51 AM   #197
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: St John, In
Posts: 255
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
If I am reading this right, it looks like the chainsaw file is smaller in diameter than the #19 bit.

Of the two options, which is better?

I have a reamer but it does take a bit to work it through. To be honest, still kind of surprised that this is still something that needs to be done on version 4 of the buggy.

Lastly, what is the diff between the one referenced and this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-32-Inc.../dp/B000IC26XE
I agree. You spend $550 on an item and you have to modify it out of the box ? It's 2017 and they can't have a perfect fit for the hinge pins right out of the factory?
weedsnager is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 11:15 AM   #198
Tech Fanatic
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 962
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I copied this from an excel spreadsheet so the format is bit off, but it shows the FDR using 15 - 21 Tooth pinions for the EB48.1-3 and for the new gearing used in the EB48.4.

TEKNO FDR EB48-.3
Pinion - FDR
15 - 11.73333333
16 - 11
17 - 10.35294118
18 - 9.777777778
19 - 9.263157895
20 - 8.8
21 - 8.380952381
TEKNO FDR EB48-.4
Pinion - FDR
15 - 9.768
16 - 9.1575
17 - 8.618823529
18 - 8.14
19 - 7.711578947
20 - 7.326
21 - 6.977142857
I was using a 17t pinion on my .3 and dropped to a 15t on my .4 and my temps were a bit out of control 160deg with a heatsink and a fan on it.
My motor is a T8i 1950kv. Hoping I can fit a 14t, it should bring the FDR back to the same as my .3 was.
This got me to thinking, what is the benefit of the new ring/pinion ratio if I am gearing it to the same FDR anyway? thanks.

Edit: Also I noticed the new body fits a lot tighter around the front and back. so there is less air getting into and out of the car, this may be a big factor in my motor temps.
__________________
EB48.4 - TEKIN RX8 & SMC 2100
XB4 '16 - TEKIN RSX & ORCA 5.5
RC10B6 - HW Justock & 24K 17.5
jmcelroy42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 11:24 AM   #199
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mc Rae, AR
Posts: 1,292
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

I agree, but most parts that are molded shift as they cool so there will be binding. Hand fitting parts on the initial build is just part of the challenge of building a great handling rig. I enjoy it most of the time as long as the entire kit doesn't need an X-Acto Knife trim or file job.
Thunder Trail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 11:33 AM   #200
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 732
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I was using a 17t pinion on my .3 and dropped to a 15t on my .4 and my temps were a bit out of control 160deg with a heatsink and a fan on it.
My motor is a T8i 1950kv. Hoping I can fit a 14t, it should bring the FDR back to the same as my .3 was.
This got me to thinking, what is the benefit of the new ring/pinion ratio if I am gearing it to the same FDR anyway? thanks.

Edit: Also I noticed the new body fits a lot tighter around the front and back. so there is less air getting into and out of the car, this may be a big factor in my motor temps.

14T FDR = 10.46571428571429
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 11:36 AM   #201
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 732
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Joe have you put your .4 on a scale yet? I'd vent the body and see if you can shed a few grams if possible.
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 11:42 AM   #202
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 28,501
Trader Rating: 233 (100%+)
Default

The drill bit info would be great to have on the first page.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL x 2 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 12:07 PM   #203
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 370
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I went to Menards on my lunch break and got a 5/32 chainsaw file. Buzzed it through the arm, and it was still tight. So I buzzed it with a little pressure, up, down, left, right and it was perfect. Then cleaned it out with the reamer. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the suggestion.
greener74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 12:13 PM   #204
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 922
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by greener74 View Post
I went to Menards on my lunch break and got a 5/32 chainsaw file. Buzzed it through the arm, and it was still tight. So I buzzed it with a little pressure, up, down, left, right and it was perfect. Then cleaned it out with the reamer. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the suggestion.
As they say, there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.

Either way, glad that you got it just the way you want it.
__________________
The off-road Tekno 3some-> EB48.4 - ET48.3 - SCT410.3
The oval 3some -> Tekno SCT410.3 - Tekno SCT210.3 - Blitz

Sponsors: Fiercercsolutions.com, AKA, jtbearingco.com, CowRC, Walden Designs, Leadfinger Racing, And BoomRC.net
ezlight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 12:15 PM   #205
Tech Fanatic
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 962
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Joe have you put your .4 on a scale yet? I'd vent the body and see if you can shed a few grams if possible.
No I have not weighed the new one yet. I will have to do that.
__________________
EB48.4 - TEKIN RX8 & SMC 2100
XB4 '16 - TEKIN RSX & ORCA 5.5
RC10B6 - HW Justock & 24K 17.5
jmcelroy42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 12:48 PM   #206
Tech Elite
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,447
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
If I am reading this right, it looks like the chainsaw file is smaller in diameter than the #19 bit.

Of the two options, which is better?

I have a reamer but it does take a bit to work it through. To be honest, still kind of surprised that this is still something that needs to be done on version 4 of the buggy.

Lastly, what is the diff between the one referenced and this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-32-Inc.../dp/B000IC26XE
I had good results with the #19 bit but I can see how the chainsaw files might make for a cleaner hole since it is essentially smoothing out the barrel as it works.

Whereas It took a little finesse to get a clean hole with the #19 bit
EbbTide is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 01:14 PM   #207
Tech Elite
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,019
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
No I have not weighed the new one yet. I will have to do that.
Also, try your old body on the new kit, to eliminate that entirely from the heat equation. You will need to open the front of the old body up a little for the new ackerman though. I'm also going to be trying to fit a 14t, but for my 2100kv SMC motor.

As for the reason, this all spins the center shaft less quickly, which means the rotating mass down the center is less of a drag on the motor, and therefor more efficient if the rest of the system is the same in efficiency as before.
__________________
"We do not act rightly because we have virtue or excellence, but we rather have those because we have acted rightly. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." -Aristotle
My wallet supports: TeknoRC.com, NorCalHobbies.com, SMC, Tekin, and several tire/servo companies.

Last edited by justpoet; 01-12-2017 at 01:28 PM.
justpoet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 03:16 PM   #208
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 28,501
Trader Rating: 233 (100%+)
Default

very curious to see how the temp thing goes with these changes, especially with people running on smaller tracks relative to Kv on a motor.

It may be we are going to want to start sourcing 1700kv motors here ...
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL x 2 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 03:40 PM   #209
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 298
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hello Cain,
To obtain the highest durability we chose 100% nylon on the arms and unfortunately the shrink rate with this material is somewhat high. We worked with manufacturing to try to eliminate the need for reaming and could not come up with a solution.

Glass filled arms (that many other manufacturers use) require less reaming but are not as durable. Hopefully, the increased durability outweighs the need to ream the arms.

I personally use the chainsaw file with a drill, others like the hudy reamer or the #19 drill bit. It's mostly personal preference. 5/32 chainsaw file is 3.97mm and slightly smaller than the 4.0mm hinge pin. Recommend moving the arm around a little while using the file with a drill. This will help enlarge the hinge pin hole slightly. Goal is to enlarge the hole just enough for the hinge pin to fall through by gravity (and maybe a slight tap) alone. Reaming it too far will cause excessive slop in the suspension.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
If I am reading this right, it looks like the chainsaw file is smaller in diameter than the #19 bit.

Of the two options, which is better?

I have a reamer but it does take a bit to work it through. To be honest, still kind of surprised that this is still something that needs to be done on version 4 of the buggy.

Lastly, what is the diff between the one referenced and this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-32-Inc.../dp/B000IC26XE
__________________
Matt Wolter
Tekno RC - National Team Manager
MattDub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2017, 03:47 PM   #210
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 298
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hello Jmcelroy42,
I might have missed it but what are the dimensions of the track you run on? 17t on the .3 and 15 on the .4 is quite low gearing. Meaning it should be running this gearing on a very small track. If you are running on a larger track, we recommend going to a larger pinion as 4 pole motors can generate excessive heat if the RPMs are too high. We pretty much run 16 or 17 on all tracks with a T8 1900.

Also, a T8i might not be the best motor if you are running into heat issues. you might need to be using a T8.

Another issue could be the motor is old. Over time the magnets lose their strength causing you to push the motor harder, generating more heat.

165 degrees F is not excessively hot and you should be fine as long as temps do not go over 200 too regularly. I've seen Tekins go up to 300 and still be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I was using a 17t pinion on my .3 and dropped to a 15t on my .4 and my temps were a bit out of control 160deg with a heatsink and a fan on it.
My motor is a T8i 1950kv. Hoping I can fit a 14t, it should bring the FDR back to the same as my .3 was.
This got me to thinking, what is the benefit of the new ring/pinion ratio if I am gearing it to the same FDR anyway? thanks.

Edit: Also I noticed the new body fits a lot tighter around the front and back. so there is less air getting into and out of the car, this may be a big factor in my motor temps.
__________________
Matt Wolter
Tekno RC - National Team Manager
MattDub is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread Matthew_Armeni Electric Off-Road 5224 08-16-2017 01:21 PM
Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread Matthew_Armeni Electric Off-Road 2945 07-23-2017 08:52 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net