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Old 11-22-2017, 10:56 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
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Last edit by: billdelong
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1
Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

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Old 09-13-2017, 07:34 PM   #1096
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Does anyone know what the total thickness is of the hexes needed to run associated wheels? I know there +1 from the stock but I'm looking for total thickness. I have an extra set of tekno 12mm hexes that measure 4.66mm thick im trying to find out if these will work with associated wheels since I have a bunch or if I need to order +1 mm hexes still.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:45 PM   #1097
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I can confirm that we're not making a slipper anytime soon. We'll leave that to the aftermarket companies.
ok, did you test any slippers from other manufacturers at all?
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:46 PM   #1098
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Originally Posted by rcnut87 View Post
Does anyone know what the total thickness is of the hexes needed to run associated wheels? I know there +1 from the stock but I'm looking for total thickness. I have an extra set of tekno 12mm hexes that measure 4.66mm thick im trying to find out if these will work with associated wheels since I have a bunch or if I need to order +1 mm hexes still.
I think they are 6mm
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:26 PM   #1099
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Originally Posted by rcnut87 View Post
Does anyone know what the total thickness is of the hexes needed to run associated wheels? I know there +1 from the stock but I'm looking for total thickness. I have an extra set of tekno 12mm hexes that measure 4.66mm thick im trying to find out if these will work with associated wheels since I have a bunch or if I need to order +1 mm hexes still.
I'll check tomorrow to see.

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Originally Posted by mourinho View Post
ok, did you test any slippers from other manufacturers at all?
I tested a spool in 13.5 and various heavy weights in the center diff. The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap. It also didn't land jumps as well. You had to be very precise while driving it. Same thing with heavy diff oils but to a lesser extent.

I can see a slipper for carpet/turf tracks, but honestly the center diff is so much more forgiving I think it's benefits outweigh the slippers benefits, especially if the slipper isn't that much lighter. If the slipper were lighter and also slipped the front and rear independently then I can see using one, but otherwise I'm always going to run a diff.
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:00 PM   #1100
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I'll check tomorrow to see.



I tested a spool in 13.5 and various heavy weights in the center diff. The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap. It also didn't land jumps as well. You had to be very precise while driving it. Same thing with heavy diff oils but to a lesser extent.

I can see a slipper for carpet/turf tracks, but honestly the center diff is so much more forgiving I think it's benefits outweigh the slippers benefits, especially if the slipper isn't that much lighter. If the slipper were lighter and also slipped the front and rear independently then I can see using one, but otherwise I'm always going to run a diff.
Carpet is all I'm racing on these days
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:34 PM   #1101
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I'll check tomorrow to see.



I tested a spool in 13.5 and various heavy weights in the center diff. The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap. It also didn't land jumps as well. You had to be very precise while driving it. Same thing with heavy diff oils but to a lesser extent.

I can see a slipper for carpet/turf tracks, but honestly the center diff is so much more forgiving I think it's benefits outweigh the slippers benefits, especially if the slipper isn't that much lighter. If the slipper were lighter and also slipped the front and rear independently then I can see using one, but otherwise I'm always going to run a diff.
thanks. what weights have you (and the team) tried in the centre diff on carpet?

will bornhorst be releasing his carpet setup anytime soon?
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:00 PM   #1102
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
...I tested a spool in 13.5 ...The spool had the potential to lay down the single fastest lap, but wasn't as consistent lap to lap...
Any chance you measured the difference in reduced weight?
Also curious if a spool will be an available option or if you can share where you got the spool, was it custom made or pulled off a random TC chassis somewhere?

I've grown used to running a spool on my K2 and would like to compare some lap times as well when I get my EB410 put together for our local turf track
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:36 AM   #1103
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I demand a one way adjustable clicker with slipper and diff action built in alongside overdrive to one end that is activated on my 3rd channel. Hop to it.

PS. Must be lighter than the stock diff or else.


[/sarcasm]
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Old 09-14-2017, 07:15 AM   #1104
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I demand a one way adjustable clicker with slipper and diff action built in alongside overdrive to one end that is activated on my 3rd channel. Hop to it.

PS. Must be lighter than the stock diff or else.


[/sarcasm]
That's about the gist of it
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Old 09-14-2017, 07:45 AM   #1105
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I agree that adding weight to the ass end combined with the right set up this wheeler will handle low bite conditions great. I see Sworkz EK1 (1st gen wheeler) kill our 2 local low bite bumpy dirt tracks consistently and it has more weight forward than just about any wheeler out.
I had an Sworkz EK1 and it was great on low bite with the proper spring and shock package. I doubt this car will struggle on low bite...
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:29 AM   #1106
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I'm kinda torn guys. I'm going to run 13.5 and I'm sure it'd help a bit, but do you guys think it's worth it to put together a full ceramic kit for this before I build it? Or maybe recommendations on which bearings to keep rubber sealed and which to run ceramic? I've only ever done ceramic in transmissions for 2wd's before.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:42 AM   #1107
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I'm kinda torn guys. I'm going to run 13.5 and I'm sure it'd help a bit, but do you guys think it's worth it to put together a full ceramic kit for this before I build it? Or maybe recommendations on which bearings to keep rubber sealed and which to run ceramic? I've only ever done ceramic in transmissions for 2wd's before.
I like to run AVID revolution ceramics with a steel race on only 1 side and leave the rubber seal removed on the opposite side, then flush the stock grease and run a dry teflon based lube typically used for bike chains. They have a kit for all the drive line bearings minus the steering linkage bearings here called "The Essentials":
Tekno EB410 | Essentials Bearing Kit

AVID also started carrying a new "Aura" bearing which is the next generation after the Revolution series which offers even better performance with a slick nylon race, but requires less abrasive cleaning chemicals and needs to be serviced more frequently so I opted to stay with Revolution for now, but might consider Aura next time:
10x15 Bearing 10x15x4 Ceramic Single Metal | Aura Bearing 6700ZC/3S
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:45 AM   #1108
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I like to run AVID revolution ceramics with a steel race on only 1 side and leave the rubber seal removed on the opposite side, then flush the stock grease and run a dry teflon based lube typically used for bike chains. They have a kit for all the drive line bearings minus the steering linkage bearings here called "The Essentials":
Tekno EB410 | Essentials Bearing Kit

AVID also started carrying a new "Aura" bearing which is the next generation after the Revolution series which offers even better performance, but requires less abrasive cleaning chemicals and needs to be serviced more frequently so I opted to stay with Revolution for now, but might consider Aura next time:
10x15 Bearing 10x15x4 Ceramic Single Metal | Aura Bearing 6700ZC/3S
Excellent info! Thanks man . Just to clarify, you leave the rubber seal off even while racing? Or is it just to clean out the bearing, then you put it back in?

Kinda nice too that they have the drop down menu to make your own kit. That was some quick work lol. I didn't think anyone but that JT company had made something for the 410 already
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:50 AM   #1109
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Excellent info! Thanks man . Just to clarify, you leave the rubber seal off even while racing? Or is it just to clean out the bearing, then you put it back in?

Kinda nice too that they have the drop down menu to make your own kit. That was some quick work lol. I didn't think anyone but that JT company had made something for the 410 already
AVID had these kits ready for the EB410 the same day Tekno published their bearing chart

Yes, I leave the rubber shield permanently removed and face that side to inside of each hub/diff leaving the metal shield exposed to the elements. I typically remove/clean/lube the Revolution bearings once every 4-5 race days but I think the Aura series needs to be cleaned every 1-2 race days and I'm not sure if I'm THAT dedicated
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:55 AM   #1110
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AVID had these kits ready for the EB410 the same day Tekno published their bearing chart

Yes, I leave the rubber shield permanently removed and face that side to inside of each hub/diff leaving the metal shield exposed to the elements. I typically remove/clean/lube the Revolution bearings once every 4-5 race days but I think the Aura series needs to be cleaned every 1-2 race days and I'm not sure if I'm THAT dedicated
Thanks for clearing that up

lol yeah I think I'll pass on the Aura's as well. Just the price alone is like getting slapped in the face.
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