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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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01-17-2017, 11:29 AM

#61

kms7852

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

You can absolutely run a 1/10 4wd buggy outdoors. They're not great when tracks are severely blown out with little rocks jutting out but a well groomed outdoor track even a really loamy one is fine for them. As for durability, I've only ever driven a Kyosho zx5 and an AE b44.3 and both of them had their weak spots. But I am hoping Tekno makes this eb410 a little tank like their other kits

Nice, glad to hear that. I'll be looking forward to the EB410 then.
Yes TEKNO vehicles proven to be tank so far.

In California, it's fun to run the car outdoors when it's mostly open and sunny

01-17-2017, 11:43 AM

#62

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kms7852

Nice, glad to hear that. I'll be looking forward to the EB410 then.
Yes TEKNO vehicles proven to be tank so far.

In California, it's fun to run the car outdoors when it's mostly open and sunny

I feel you on the outdoor driving man. I miss our old outdoor track. But the hobby shop couldn't afford it anymore and they moved to a smaller facility with one indoor track. Spending a summer race day indoors here in California can get pretty toasty lol

01-19-2017, 03:38 PM

#63

EbbTide

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Does anyone know if Billy Fischer is actually driving the eb410 at Reedy? If so I hope someone snaps a pic!

01-19-2017, 03:54 PM

#64

kms7852

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Its sad the outdoor race is going away. the Hot Rod Hobbies is the only outdoor official race left from what I hear. OCRC has Reedy championship this week and I'll keep my eyes open for any TEKNO vehicles EB410

01-19-2017, 04:09 PM

#65

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kms7852

Yeah it really is. Norcal was the only outdoor track left in the area until they moved to San Jose. Not that I dislike indoor but racing in open air with a bigger track is hard to beat with an indoor facility.

If you see something let us know

I'm hoping someone at least catches a glimpse. I see Billy is running in the 4wd open class but I'm limited to the liverc.com feed so all I see is his body and tires

01-19-2017, 10:32 PM

#66

RC*PHREAK

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

I'm hoping someone at least catches a glimpse. I see Billy is running in the 4wd open class but I'm limited to the liverc.com feed so all I see is his body and tires

what do you consider "in the area"? delta still runs outdoors spring-fall. the tilted compound in livermore will be running again when the weather clears up.

01-19-2017, 11:15 PM

#67

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK

what do you consider "in the area"? delta still runs outdoors spring-fall. the tilted compound in livermore will be running again when the weather clears up.

I consider like a half hour drive in the area lol. Delta is a bit too far but I never have heard of tilted until now. But it's still a little ways away in Livermore. It's about an hour drive from my house looking at their Facebook page.

01-20-2017, 04:46 AM

#68

nodrog

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

Does anyone know if Billy Fischer is actually driving the eb410 at Reedy? If so I hope someone snaps a pic!

what car is this? nevermind it's a B6.....I'm still half asleep

I scanned the photos from liverc last night, saw this car that said Tekno on it and saved it, then forgot about it till this morning.

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Last edited by nodrog; 01-20-2017 at 05:04 AM.

01-20-2017, 04:53 AM

#69

renjie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nodrog

what car is this? nevermind it's a B6.....I'm still half asleep

Damn.....Teased halfway round the world.

01-20-2017, 12:13 PM

#70

Matthew_Armeni

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

Does anyone know if Billy Fischer is actually driving the eb410 at Reedy? If so I hope someone snaps a pic!

He's not driving it.

01-20-2017, 01:46 PM

#71

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

He's not driving it.

Thank you now I can unglue my eyes from LiveRC lol

01-20-2017, 04:17 PM

#72

Cain

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curious if we'll here about an eb210 in the future ...

01-22-2017, 02:55 PM

#73

justpoet

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kms7852

Based on your experience, how does 1/10th scale buggy handle compared to 1/8th E-Buggy?

I already own EB48.3 and I enjoy running it on indoor and outdoor tracks.
Can EB410 1/10th scale buggy be run outdoors as well?

I wanted to touch on this aspect, since it got missed in the replies. 10th scale 4wd buggies are somewhat similar to 8th scale buggies in how they can handle, but everything happens faster and requires more reaction speed, from in air corrections to whips to acceleration and slowing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

I started back into RC purely because I could do it outside. Outdoor racing is awesome! That being said, I do want to correct your recollection of events. The old NorCal location was sold out from under them to new owners and the lease agreement nullified as the new owners wanted to use the building themselves, so the track had to find another spot. It had nothing to do with being able to pay.

01-22-2017, 03:16 PM

#74

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by justpoet

Ahhhh thank you for the correction

I was just sad to see it go. Oddly enough I enjoyed the drive to Union city more than I do to San Jose lol. Even though it's closer to me. Are you still racing at the new location?

01-23-2017, 12:19 AM

#75

justpoet

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

Ahhhh thank you for the correction

I was just sad to see it go. Oddly enough I enjoyed the drive to Union city more than I do to San Jose lol. Even though it's closer to me. Are you still racing at the new location?

For indoor, I really wish I was. I ran at the new location a lot until a couple years ago. I'm on the opposite side of the country now, so my indoor experiences are a little less polished than NorCal and AMain's OutBack were, but I'm outdoor on real dirt changing condition off road for the full outdoor season with B main deep eTruggies, eBuggies, and 4wd SCTs at Hillside Raceway in NH.

But, back to the topic at hand, the EB410.

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