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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 11-01-2017, 10:52 AM
  #2026  
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Originally Posted by Jakesterama
Welp, I sold my D413 a couple weeks ago and I thought I was done with wheeler. Guess not because I just ordered a EB410...

I ordered it from Tower because I have some time to wait, and I had eCash to use. I hope using a coupon and eCash on a backordered item is ok!
I can vouch for the coupon working for a pre order. I pre ordered as soon as they went live and used a coupon that expired by the time they actually charged and shipped and I still received the coupon discount. It just won't reflect the discount in your order until it ships That being said, good luck with Tower
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Old 11-01-2017, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin
So another guy at the with an EB410 came up to me and showed me that he had rubbing on the rear axles where the spring cups are from the rear shocks. It appears that with stock setup there is some very tight to no clearance causing the spring cups to ever so slightly rub the rear axles. Now this is not a big deal, just thought I would mention it. I never saw it on mine as I have my rear arms all the way forward...I also put a washer behind the shock eyelet to get about 1mm clearance just to be sure.
Hmm... makes me wonder if this might be related to any of the failures with the out drives snapping? If there is any excessive lateral force pushing on the shafts while in motion, that can be bad news on the out drives

Originally Posted by E-Mann
I am in the process of converting my EB410 to a carpet setup. My plan is to start with the stock gear diff with 15K (will be running 13.5). Depending on how that feels, either go higher on diff oil or go to the AE slipper. There was a user on Facebook that tried the exotek eliminator (for B64) and found he liked the gear diff with 30K better.
That was probably me, I got the tip from Edwin Hartman (South MidWest Regional Team Manager) to try 30K and that worked significantly better for our turf track, though I've heard that turf is very different from carpet, more info on my setup differences here:
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Tekno RC EB410 Thread

and here:
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Next week I plan to attend a race clinic being hosted by Ryan Lutz and Joe Bornhorst, I'm hoping to let them drive my EB410 and see if they can help provide some more insight beyond what Edwin has shared to suit my driving style on the turf.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
For screw you removed, what was your reasoning to remove it? Part of me is thinking that the cup can then Flex more relative to the spring but not sure.
Initially I had it in but was a pain when changing springs, so I removed it for convenience, but also the spring stop slipping off the cup after that so I assumed the screw was related to this. Its quite possible it will slip off again and may have nothing to do with it at all. The flexing may help...well see.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
lol! "Sorry son, I'm gonna need your hingepins today"
Ensures he won't beat me ... again ! haha
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:19 AM
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I thought that the team c tm4 team edition had 13mm or 14mm shocks, not sure.

Ill try to find a solution if it happens again. Spring going over the cup happened once.
On a good note. I drove the car hard on the a main and didn't break anything or stripped a spur. solid day of testing and racing! I might take it this weekend again but make changes (which I did) and get her set up to my liking.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin
Initially I had it in but was a pain when changing springs, so I removed it for convenience, but also the spring stop slipping off the cup after that so I assumed the screw was related to this. Its quite possible it will slip off again and may have nothing to do with it at all. The flexing may help...well see.
Over the years, I can only begin to tell you how many spring cups I've lost, it's one thing for the spring to pop off the cup (no big deal) but to lose the cup itself is pretty frustrating, even more so if you don't have a spare or the track side shop is out of stock, been there done that! I'm eternally grateful for Tekno using the captured design, I've shared this tip with other local racers who have started running the captured Tekno cups on their other 1/8 brands.

I can guarantee you this, it's not a matter of if but a matter of when your cup will pop out on the track and fingers crossed you quickly find it or have a spare when that time comes
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong
Over the years, I can only begin to tell you how many spring cups I've lost, it's one thing for the spring to pop off the cup (no big deal) but to lose the cup itself is pretty frustrating, even more so if you don't have a spare or the track side shop is out of stock, been there done that! I'm eternally grateful for Tekno using the captured design, I've shared this tip with other local racers who have started running the captured Tekno cups on their other 1/8 brands.

I can guarantee you this, it's not a matter of if but a matter of when your cup will pop out on the track and fingers crossed you quickly find it or have a spare when that time comes
Man, I've been driving and racing RC on and off for 20 years and have never lost a spring cup. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I can vouch for the coupon working for a pre order. I pre ordered as soon as they went live and used a coupon that expired by the time they actually charged and shipped and I still received the coupon discount. It just won't reflect the discount in your order until it ships That being said, good luck with Tower
+1 that is one big reason to order is that savings for preorders. Another if you are wanting it to actually be in stock is the Tower Ecash.

I do find it funny that orders seemed to be being filled right up to the 31st it seems ... and then e-cash started on Nov 1st.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
+1 that is one big reason to order is that savings for preorders. Another if you are wanting it to actually be in stock is the Tower Ecash.

I do find it funny that orders seemed to be being filled right up to the 31st it seems ... and then e-cash started on Nov 1st.
I think though after this experience, I may just end up going with the more expensive Amain option lol.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mx836
Man, I've been driving and racing RC on and off for 20 years and have never lost a spring cup. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
25 years in RC and have never had that issue myself either. I've had them dislodge but never lost. I'm going to go to the track today and now will probably lose all four of them
..lol
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:04 PM
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Ok I have canceled my order with Amain (tired of waiting) and have 1 on hold at my local track that I will pick up tomorrow.
Does anyone have a set up sheet for a indoor clay track OCRC?? Thanks
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin
25 years in RC and have never had that issue myself either. I've had them dislodge but never lost. I'm going to go to the track today and now will probably lose all four of them
..lol
I helped pull pipe from our local 1/8 track last weekend to prepare for a big race coming up... I spotted at least 3-4 spring cups around the track, among a myriad of other parts, I even pocketed a C-hub steering post bushing, bonus!

FWIW, I don't remember the last time I popped a cup on any of my 1/10 cars, the jumps on the 1/10 track are considerably smaller than the 1/8 track.

Last edited by billdelong; 11-01-2017 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1
Ok I have canceled my order with Amain (tired of waiting) and have 1 on hold at my local track that I will pick up tomorrow.
Does anyone have a set up sheet for a indoor clay track OCRC?? Thanks
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...rip%20Clay.jpg
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
While not everything is 100% applicable to the small car, the diffs build essentially the same as the large vehicles, so here's my diff build video tutorial from the ET48. The drop through and sight methods both work well, though I always point the pins at the screws so it is always easy to not guess on things. Slightly longer of a video, but it explains pretty much everything (including a couple things you don't need to worry about here). Never had a leaking diff or diff construction issue since I stopped running the original Losi SCTE. LOL
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Thanks for this video. threw this together to make it even easier


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Old 11-02-2017, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by E-Mann
I know some of this has been discussed on the Facebook site (not by me), I thought I would share some observations on compatibility (fit only) with AE B64 and XB4 parts.

Center differential:
XB4 NOT compatible. Internal (plastic) gears NOT compatible.
B64D compatible when used with carbon center brace 6635C. Shims are needed to reduce slop. Internal gears not compatible. Stock weight with 81t spur is 43g vs stock EB410 is 34g. I don't have plastic B64 gears to check the weight.

Center slipper:
XB4 NOT compatible. Bearing spacing too wide and outdrives too long.
B64 slipper (92089) is compatible with carbon center brace 6635C and AE 110mm front dogbone (92065). The 78t spur (9652) works with this setup. Shims (at least 8) are used to reduce slop between bearings. Rubber spacers in outdrives recomended. Net weight of B64 slipper, 78t spur and 110 dogbone is 42g (33g slipper + 9g dogbone) vs 40g (34g diff + 6g dogbone) for EB410 front dogbone and gear diff. If going this route you may want to buy Shelle SHL1307. This comes with the AE 110 dogbone and 78t spur. I have not tested this but don't see why it wouldn't work.

I am in the process of converting my EB410 to a carpet setup. My plan is to start with the stock gear diff with 15K (will be running 13.5). Depending on how that feels, either go higher on diff oil or go to the AE slipper. There was a user on Facebook that tried the exotek eliminator (for B64) and found he liked the gear diff with 30K better.
I run on astro turf. I put 60000 wt in the center. Works very well.
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