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Old 08-01-2017, 03:20 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10B64 Thread
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Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Aftermarket parts

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

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Old 03-03-2017, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Finalist
The shims are so thin they do often stick together. You may think you grabbed one, but in reality two can easily be stuck together.
This is a good point, but I counted them about 10 times, and rubbed them back and forth for that exact reason, and only have 12. All good though. AE is great when it comes to replacing missing items. I can paint my body while I wait.
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:58 PM
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I had missing shims also and actually received 16 in the mail from ae today.
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Old 03-03-2017, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mellow
I didn't have a bag labeled 2.3 either, but I was also missing 4 outdrive shims. I was able to build all 3 diffs with bags 2.1 and 2.2. I don't think you have to worry.
I am so happy I am not the only one who was confused with this lol




On another note does anyone know of any ballcups that fit lunsford titanium turnbuckles? Since the lunsford are a little thicker than stock I cant adjust the tierods without them popping off, so I have to adjust them off the car.
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Old 03-03-2017, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmer411
I am so happy I am not the only one who was confused with this lol




On another note does anyone know of any ballcups that fit lunsford titanium turnbuckles? Since the lunsford are a little thicker than stock I cant adjust the tierods without them popping off, so I have to adjust them off the car.
Did you get the 3mm (standard) Lunsfords, or the heavy duty 3.5mm versions?

I run the 3.5mm versions and you need to drill out the ball cups. The standard 3mm versions should not need drilling, just black grease to. Are them work easier.
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Old 03-03-2017, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Ok the proverbial question about a aluminum servo that works best. Not too many to choose from .....
If you have a Futaba radio with S. Bus, I highly recommend the Futaba S9372SV. I have the older, non-S. Bus 9352 version and this servo has been excellent. Very fast at .06 sec/60 degree, 342 oz/inches at 7.4V, metal center case, titanium gears. Its the only servo I've owned that has never stripped a gear.

Not cheap at about $145 at Tower Hobbies, but will last through everything you can throw at it on the B64.

On a side note, this forum has helped a ton with my 44.3 and just received the B64 last week. Looking forward to getting some trigger time with the new car when my local track dries out.
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Old 03-03-2017, 09:45 PM
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Default Rear diff

Hey guys maybe girls too. I was bolting the rear diff to the chassis and could not get the two long screws to go in.Ripped every thing dwn to discover I had tightened the upper bolts that hold both halves together too tight , causing the plastic to warp outward and keeping the parts from sitting flush.I did blk grease and was just kinda
Hard to screw in. s So just a heads up if your moving fast like i was . Jus tryin to get her done.:lol
Cheers
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Old 03-03-2017, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tobey457
Did you get the 3mm (standard) Lunsfords, or the heavy duty 3.5mm versions?

I run the 3.5mm versions and you need to drill out the ball cups. The standard 3mm versions should not need drilling, just black grease to. Are them work easier.

I got the punisher series ones. They measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.20mm after the threads. stock measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.00mm after.
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Old 03-03-2017, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmer411
I got the punisher series ones. They measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.20mm after the threads. stock measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.00mm after.
Chapstick.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:02 AM
  #1419  
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Originally Posted by jimmer411
I got the punisher series ones. They measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.20mm after the threads. stock measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.00mm after.
Yep, lube the threads. I use candle wax... an old trick I use building guitars with wood screws into hardwoods that need to be constantly adjusted or removed.

I also had the popping out problem. These new ball cups aren't as tight fitting into the ball stud like the older B5 type so they can pop out relatively easier.

I poke in a 2mm hex wrench in the hole of a ball cup and into the ball stud to stop it from turning and popping out while adjusting the turnbuckles.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmer411
I got the punisher series ones. They measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.20mm after the threads. stock measure 2.92mm at the threads and 3.00mm after.
The Punisher series have the same size threads as stock, so they should only require some lube to get them to thread easy.

The 'super duty' (what I have) are 3.5mm and the cups need to be drilled out before you can thread in a turnbuckle. They're a pain for anyone considering them, because it's very easy to hog the hole out crooked.
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Old 03-04-2017, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK
Caster blocks on the wrong sides or you have the steering blocks upside down.
That was it. Wow.. Built a lot of kits in the past and never made a mistake like this before. Funny thing is, this may be the first kit I built where R and L were clearly marked.
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Old 03-04-2017, 01:04 PM
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What length sensor wire is needed? I thought I read it on here but I could not seem to locate that post. Thanks
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Old 03-04-2017, 03:02 PM
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Which ever one fits based on where you have your esc mounted in relation to your motor.
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Old 03-04-2017, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tom73
What length sensor wire is needed? I thought I read it on here but I could not seem to locate that post. Thanks
My sensor port faces the motor, so I got away with a 125mm lead.

150mm should cover most installations.
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
I can say this, My XB4 got spanked last weekend by a B64D by 2 laps. But that same guy also lapped me in the past with only 3 shocks on his B44.3
I usually can TQ and win Wheeler at my local track....until Cole Tollard shows up
Seeing this just now, and can't resist saying a few things about Cole Tollard...

I've raced around Cole since he was too short to look over the track wall at Trackside. He was a talented driver then and an even greater talent now.

What an outstanding ambassador to this hobby and the epitome of what a sponsored driver should aspire to be. Always positive, helpful, kind and humble. He has never failed to say hello to me and ask how I was doing - I'm just another acquaintance, another club racer. My point is, he treats everyone fairly, regardless of ability. I've not witnessed him say an unkind, flippant remark to anyone...even on the drivers stand when a lesser driver completely delivers him to the wall.

I understand this is a bit off topic, but we always seem to make an extra effort to say negative things, because criticism is easier.

This young man is a gem in all the good ways and Team Associated is lucky to have him promoting their products.
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