Tobey457

iTrader: (8)

I think it's because it's a brand new kit, and everyone is in the build phase right now. Two weeks from now everyone will be talking setups and aftermarket parts.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The new car is insane. My B44.3 was real good, I cant knock it but this car is better. I ran it for the 1st time Sunday and got it dialed in in 2 packs. Best car I have driven to date. I was able to come back from getting knocked back to last and take the win. Very predictable and easy to drive. The 1st thing I noticed that was stand alone better than the B44.3 was how it takes lateral bumps going through a corner. My B44.3 would become unsettled. This car it doesn't bother. The B64D doesn't chassis slap as much either. Overall, I am extremely pleased with the car. I have so much to try still but box setup with exception to front camber link position took the win for me. I went to the inside middle hole on the tower up front.

joeld2llio

iTrader: (18)

First off many more people post when there is a problem than when there is praise. If it was bad you would have dozens of posts about that by now.

I got my car late in the week and didn't have time to build for last weekend racing. The build went great but you can't post reviews of how it drives til you drive it...

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

I have posted a couple times already saying how great the car is compared to the B44. You need to read every single post if you are looking for a particular answer.

I have posted about the build and driving it as well. I am not complaining (yet) about the car one bit.

Now today I went and ran a few packs through the car and do do some testing, but instead I snapped the L/F arm twice on the same part of the track. I want to say it was my driving as I usually drive pretty hard through this section and over a double I bounced it off the wall, but I have bounced my SC5M, my B6D and my T5m off the same part of the wall plenty of times without breaking anything. So I will not say that is the cars fault. I did crash it. But before that I was looking for a little more rear grip as traction was phenomenal today and the front had a ton of grip so I dropped the rear shock oil down to 27.5 and ended up removing the rear sway bar. I also moved the battery all the way back, which I am probably gonna end up putting it back to where it was as I feel it made the back of the car want to swing a bit much. All in all the car is getting better every time I put it down.

jimmer411

Anyone know what the contents of bag 2.3 are? looks like I am missing it Unless they put everything into 2.1 and 2.2. It looks like I have everything needed to build 3 diffs, 2.1 has 2 smaller bags inside it with gears, shims and gaskets along with diff cases and spur gear and bag 2.2 has the other half of the diff cases along with the out drives and a bag of screws.



/facepalm. Shock oil bag is 2.3... thanks to my wife for pointing that one out.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

I think i have posted a few times about how much I love this buggy. From the second i first pulled the trigger on its maiden voyage I was very impressed and was turning laps with it like i had been running it for a while. I started with a mix of the kit setup and changed a few things from what I saw from the setup sheets posted on rc10.com. I did start with the green rear springs and immediately went up to the white spring then the grey spring a few packs later. I have not tried removing the front sway bar yet which seems to be the trend but not sure if that was for the conditions and tire choice for the reedy race. I started with 10k/200k/10k in the diffs. I did break a front gear box but my track is a bit hard on cars and was not upset one bit because the car still finished an awesome race between a fellow racer and myself, the kind of race that makes this hobby so great. I went down to 7k in the rear and replaced the front gear box and replaced the front diff fluid with some fresh 10k as i figured it may have gotten dirty fast with everything being new.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Im pretty much with you on having grey springs in the rear, seemed to me to make the car land a bit better. Going to try red fronts to try and calm down the steering a little bit, some who drove my car said it didnt have enough, I felt it had a bit too much.

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

My car still needs more steering but I made a few changes I have yet to try that should increase mechanical steering.
Even with the car pushing I won mod wheeler I just didn't have blistering fast laps

Eli

iTrader: (15)

I want to try the red spring as well but I also feel i could use a bit more steering more so at lower speed tighter sections. I may need to try a shorter link in the rear to get it to rotate more, I am running the outer hole (d) with the insert in the down position (cav setup sheet) so i may run the c hole with the insert in the up position to shorten it ever so slightly. But everywhere else on the track I cant really complain so it may be in my best interest to leave it where it is but i will of coarse test it at some point to find out, may even try it tomorrow.

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Dude... Anafon... the B64 is really good.

Easier to drive, felt more plush, lands nice. I went a bit off kit setup, perhaps too much for a first drive... but the car was solid. Can't wait to tune and dial it in so I can push it more. The setup I threw on had a load of grip up front. Looking forward to locking in the rear now on my next time out... unfortunately a solid week or 10 days away.

Great build and car AE! Nice to get a few extra misc spare parts, full bottles of oils, Xrings.

P.S. I have no idea how to install the center diff w/o totally removing the front plastic center diff mount along with the front chassis top brace. I was so perplexed trying to install and finally said screw it and started removing parts.

I managed to cut up and partially mangle an old B44.2 body to fit with velcro, as I ran out of time to paint. I wouldn't recommend, but it got me through the night and was able to run 4 packs before my vacation.

Jesse

TAW

iTrader: (18)

Well I'm struggling with the front diff shimming. Im at 7-0 right now and I still have a bit of binding at one spot in the rotation. I had it apart several times last night and finally gave up for the night. I will pull it apart again tonight and try again.

Hasi

I managed it with unscrewing the steering link connected to the servo at the servohorn. In my case the front dogbone was in the way so the bone couldn't be lifted enough - after loosening the servo link I had enough space.

TAW

iTrader: (18)

I tried the other diff in the front this morning and at 7-0 it does. It have the same binding as the other one.

Halert71

iTrader: (1)

I ran into the steering blocks being tight on the caster block bushings. Had to sand a little material off the block to free them up. Also the rear arm shims. to free the rear hubs.

Weird, B5M and T5M they built without having to do anything like this.

ASH93A

I had the same binding issue mainly in one or two spots as well even with 7-0. In the end I pulled the diff out and decided to tighten up the 4 screws holding the diff halves together, only about 1/4 turn each just to make sure the halves your fully together.. put it all back together and it is now perfect!! although while I had the diff out I also made sure the pinion gear was fully pushed in (from the inside of the gearbox) it did also move back a fraction so maybe that helped as well? Anyway a couple more things for you to try..

Adrian