187LikesTLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
12-12-2016, 11:34 AM
#856
Tech Apprentice
So , I got a used truck that I know was fast in the other owners hands . I put my electronics in it and set ride height and my first outing was nose dive city. I had other problems too so the track visit was cut short. Next time I ran the truck was a small indoor club race and I had nose dive issues there as well. I raised the front a few mm higher than the rear which did wonders . The other thing I did was go up 3 teeth on my pinion gear , something I learned my first go with the scte. Fact is , if your hitting larger jumps when the truck is already at mostly full speed you will likely have nose overs if you don't have enough kv or wheel speed to correct it . A 4000 kv in my truck would never fly right , a 4700 never had issues. As for stability , I cant say enough how well the truck drives. The shock package is impressive . With the motor tilted I have enjoyed being able to get back on power sooner and the rear end works really well. First time driving the truck ever , running the class indoors for the first time ever , 1st time driving short bus again in 3 years I managed to qualify 3rd and missed the podium just barley. Did I mention how good the shock package is ?
12-12-2016, 11:40 AM
#857
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...072bc98bb4d533
Hope this link works. This is the Xray book. I would consider this the tie breaker.
I always considered a longer rod to stiffen a car. A shorter link will have more camber gain. There is more then roll centers to think about. I have always tuned by camber gain but roll centers are obviously an important factor to think about as well.
Hope this link works. This is the Xray book. I would consider this the tie breaker.
I always considered a longer rod to stiffen a car. A shorter link will have more camber gain. There is more then roll centers to think about. I have always tuned by camber gain but roll centers are obviously an important factor to think about as well.
12-12-2016, 11:45 AM
#858
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...072bc98bb4d533
Hope this link works. This is the Xray book. I would consider this the tie breaker.
I always considered a longer rod to stiffen a car. A shorter link will have more camber gain. There is more then roll centers to think about. I have always tuned by camber gain but roll centers are obviously an important factor to think about as well.
Hope this link works. This is the Xray book. I would consider this the tie breaker.
I always considered a longer rod to stiffen a car. A shorter link will have more camber gain. There is more then roll centers to think about. I have always tuned by camber gain but roll centers are obviously an important factor to think about as well.
the hudy book states that raising the inner camber link lowers the roll center and increases body roll - but the TLR article states that lowering the inner camber link provides more roll.
can you shed light on that? im going with my gut and what i've always known that raising the inner camber link lowers the roll center which in fact increases body roll.
12-12-2016, 12:25 PM
#860
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
i just want to make sure we dont have any misinformation going on and i want to make sure i understand what's going on mechanically.
on youtube doctor mosfet explains roll center quite well and he confirms my theory.
the other problem is people explain different attributes which are usually attributed for the other side. for instance. people often say a longer link is more stable. while this is true it's more stable on straights because it keeps the contact patch, it's less stable in corners because of the contact patch basically disappears due to no camber gain. so it's unstable in corners, which may confuse people thinking "i thought a longer link was more stable and a shorter was less." i believe a longer link does make the car roll more, however since there is no contact patch to take advantage of the added roll it ends up being a compromise. im less certain on camber link lengths besides i know a longer link provides less camber gain and a shorter provides more - but there are other affects on roll. however, im pretty good with roll centers.
12-12-2016, 12:36 PM
#862
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
yeah thats a good one as is doctor mosfets.
but that clearly shows raising the inner link decreases the roll center, thus INCREASING roll. TLR should fix this article...
now if anyone could clear up how a short vs long link affects roll/handling that would be great (aside from camber gain we know a short link provides more camber gain upon compression)
but that clearly shows raising the inner link decreases the roll center, thus INCREASING roll. TLR should fix this article...
now if anyone could clear up how a short vs long link affects roll/handling that would be great (aside from camber gain we know a short link provides more camber gain upon compression)
12-12-2016, 07:56 PM
#863
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
You can spend hours on this, how and why it does what it does. That is something I would research when you have time to burn and can do test days at the track. Takes me 3-10 track days (5-8 hour days) to figure out a car and get the setup 90% right for me.... IMHO Got to put in the time.
Might be more productive short term to use the basic info in the Losi Handling Guide to get the car doing what you want it to do. I will point out that all my successful 4x4s use a smaller sway bar up front. Go back to box setup and after making a few laps, check ride height and adjust as needed. Then if you need more steering run a smaller sway bar, move front shocks to inside tower, run a softer spring up front or change the pills for less kickup. If you need more traction in rear when on power move rear hub forward one spacer. More side bite, move top of rear shocks to inside and camber link down a notch on tower.
If you want more specific help post your entire setup. I know there are several people here who can offer solutions if they know every adjustment you currently use. You just need to know what you want, more steering, more side bite, whatever it is after going back to box setup. Really trying to help, but we are blind without seeing the car. So many details are often left out of setups. Once you can see it on a setup sheet the picture is clear.
Might be more productive short term to use the basic info in the Losi Handling Guide to get the car doing what you want it to do. I will point out that all my successful 4x4s use a smaller sway bar up front. Go back to box setup and after making a few laps, check ride height and adjust as needed. Then if you need more steering run a smaller sway bar, move front shocks to inside tower, run a softer spring up front or change the pills for less kickup. If you need more traction in rear when on power move rear hub forward one spacer. More side bite, move top of rear shocks to inside and camber link down a notch on tower.
If you want more specific help post your entire setup. I know there are several people here who can offer solutions if they know every adjustment you currently use. You just need to know what you want, more steering, more side bite, whatever it is after going back to box setup. Really trying to help, but we are blind without seeing the car. So many details are often left out of setups. Once you can see it on a setup sheet the picture is clear.
12-13-2016, 04:57 AM
#864
??? Weight???
After I get my last two parts, I'll have a totally new 3.0 scte chassis. I figured the way to put the scbe buggy body on it. This buggy body has a roll cage inside of it and it's got to be heavier than the truck body. Should I go up 5 or 10 counts of shock oil from the stock 40 front, 35 rear shock oil? I'm also using the same stock pistons. Thanks in advance.
12-13-2016, 08:50 AM
#867
Let me clarify ...
Springs control the weight transfer and oil dampens the springs. To correctly compensate for the added weight , you start with the springs not the oil. Controlling body roll and weight transfer with thick oil and soft springs just doesn't handle very well.
Springs control the weight transfer and oil dampens the springs. To correctly compensate for the added weight , you start with the springs not the oil. Controlling body roll and weight transfer with thick oil and soft springs just doesn't handle very well.
12-13-2016, 09:18 AM
#868
Let me clarify ...
Springs control the weight transfer and oil dampens the springs. To correctly compensate for the added weight , you start with the springs not the oil. Controlling body roll and weight transfer with thick oil and soft springs just doesn't handle very well.
Springs control the weight transfer and oil dampens the springs. To correctly compensate for the added weight , you start with the springs not the oil. Controlling body roll and weight transfer with thick oil and soft springs just doesn't handle very well.
12-13-2016, 10:12 AM
#869
Let me clarify ...
Springs control the weight transfer and oil dampens the springs. To correctly compensate for the added weight , you start with the springs not the oil. Controlling body roll and weight transfer with thick oil and soft springs just doesn't handle very well.
Springs control the weight transfer and oil dampens the springs. To correctly compensate for the added weight , you start with the springs not the oil. Controlling body roll and weight transfer with thick oil and soft springs just doesn't handle very well.
Oil/Dampening = How quickly to roll
But... the dampening and spring have to match. If they are too unbalanced, the vehicle won't handle right regardless.
12-13-2016, 10:32 AM
#870
Sorry, I'm just trying to get a starting point to start with. Don't know how you going to measure roll. Good luck with that. It's just a 3.0 chassis with a scbe body. I'm not a pro. Just like the look and race it on the track with the other trucks. Just fun.