EJ2civic

I may look into this for my 2.0. Now my question is, are the updated 3.0 ones a different part number? I just did some quick research and found that the front and rear driveshafts for the 3.0 are the SAME as the 1.0 and 2.0. LOSB3564 covers all 3 SCTE's and other SCTE based platforms.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

The steeling angle was improved by the axles... same driveshafts throughout.

moto44

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Jack

braderb

Thinks of buying SCTE 3.0. Any issues ? Is there issue with springs? Why are people going to Kyosho springs? Do you need any upgrades?

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Thanks for sharing that. I was not aware the stub axle was the updated part. Really looks like the dog bone made all the difference. The shoulder of the CV end under the ball looks to be reduced to provide more clearance where it would contact stub axle at full lock? Maybe both were updated?

Is the flat spot on the ball at the drive cup just to save weight? Is the newer axle harden more in some way? I ask because they seem more durable than olders units.

No matter what, thanks for updating these parts.

cutting42

We just had the first round of the UK Shortcourse National Series on Sunday at Eden Park Raceway near London. The track is a mixed surface but mainly astroturf and quite bumpy with a few bomb-holes and jumps.

The Tekno 410.3 has dominated the UK truck scene for a couple of years but the XfactoryUK/Team Corally switched to the TLR SCTE 3.0 for this year and this was its first major outing. We were not too sure how we would compare as there had been no direct head to head races but the TLR felt great in testing with a few tweaks mainly around shock oils and springs.

Qual started really well in the first round with the top 5 positions taken by our 5 team trucks. Final qual for the A main was TLR 1,2,3,5 and 6 and that is how the finals finished up with team leader Darren Boyle taking the TQ and win and doubling up with a TQ and win in 2WD with the TLR SCT 3.0 with a laydown gearbox mod.

Thanks to TLR for an awesome truck, it was so nimble and yet carried high speed well whilst soaking up the bumps. Hopefully we will see the results continue on the other tracks this year.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Thats a great race report! Post pics of track if you can. Would like to see what that track looks like.

doctorfeelgood5

iTrader: (19)

Summary as I can tell:
1. springs are OK in newest kits, Kyosho springs are still better
2. move rear shocks to front, buy stadium truck shock bodies and pistons, put them on the rear. this gives improved ride height which fixes everything.

cutting42

Some pics for you.










Vid of practice

https://www.facebook.com/10000825942...3848628567100/

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Now that looks like a good time! Nice action shots and video to spice it up. Thanks for sharing that.

sylv456

Hi all,

I'd like to try to run the truck in 2wd configuration, is there any aftermath part allowing to block the center diff?

Cheers

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Not really but you can put puddy in the center diff. I have heard of guys JB welding the gears in place as well. There are things you could do. This would be quite the heavy 2wd SC.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

that may be true compared to a 2wd spec truck, but many are doing it with their tekno trucks with good success. The scte platform is lighter than the 410.3 chassis regardless. Anyhow the thing to get it 500k weight oil, not to lock it

Fantuzzi

Here is my conversion of the SCTE 3.0 shocks to the 2.0 hop up springs.

I took the necessary parts from the Associated big bore spring cups set and I used the medium (rear) and long (front) neck version on the lower spring side.
I dremeled out the hub section of the super short spring cup and used them as spring collar adapters for the top. Now using the long neck spring cups, no dremeling of the front A arm is required and the spring length still works well for me.

FuryriderX

iTrader: (2)

A really easy way is to just fill the center diff with hot glue. It will completely lock the diff but be very easy to pick out if you decide you dont like it. JB Weld is permanent, and silly putty or locking putty are difficult to get out completely.

500K will work if you leave the front driveshaft in, but if you want it to be truly 2wd you'll have to remove it, and even with 500K I would think you'll bleed power from the rear wheels.