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Old 12-30-2016, 11:15 PM   #946
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Have anyone tried putting the AE or Kyosho truck shocks in?

Fits? Any mods to make it work?
You can make just about any shock fit, but gets expensive chasing shock setup using shocks from other kits unless you already own those shocks. No matter what shocks you have it still requires springs, pistons and oil testing to find something good.
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:07 AM   #947
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Default 50 race Update

After approx 12 race weekends, and around 50 heats on the truck so far... Id like to report things are holding up really good so far. (Attached are pics of my front out drives, which show very little wear).

What Ive done:

-TLR alum top plate
-TLR Clamping hexs
-TLR alum R diff inserts
-TLR 2.0 style batt Mount & thumb screws
-Hot Racing motor mount
-Hot Racing alum spindles
-Tekno SCTE rear Outdrives & CV axles
-Avid bearings
-Jammin transponder mount
-RPM rear bumper mount
-XRay diff Washers
-HPI 2mm hex diff screws
-Added larger sway bar capture screws bc the stock ones strip the hole.

I broke a rear body mount, that didnt affect anything really. The big issue is making sure you SHIM the rear diff properly. If you do not you can run the risk of having the rear pinion bearings blow out and take the whole rear diff with it. Ive seen it happen 3 times already.

Besides that, one chassis dent I pounded out. The rear edge of the chassis wears fast. The A Arms get ovaled out pretty fast. Nothing major. Tiny tweak in an axle shaft, slight bend but isnt affecting performance.

Shocks & pistons are great. Springs suck, but we know that already. Way too soft. Stripped 1 wheel nut last week. Dont overtighten stand off mount nuts, they will snap.

Outdrives are wearing good, no excessive slop anywhere. Keep an eye on your king pins up front, make sure the set screws stay tight.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
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TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161231_124038.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-img_20161231_131034.jpg  
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:28 AM   #948
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Originally Posted by the_stig123 View Post
I am using hobbywing xr8 sct, problem with sensored mode was also with previous hobbywing sct pro.
if your trying to run that motor in full sensored mode I don't think it will work, only the new line of HW motors will run in full sensored, the xr8 sct needs to be in hybrid mode with any sensored motor except their newest line of motors.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:32 AM   #949
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You have to run ALL NON-hobbywing motors in HYBRID mode on the new XR8 SCT.
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:24 PM   #950
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
After approx 12 race weekends, and around 50 heats on the truck so far... Id like to report things are holding up really good so far. (Attached are pics of my front out drives, which show very little wear).

What Ive done:

-TLR alum top plate
-TLR Clamping hexs
-TLR alum R diff inserts
-TLR 2.0 style batt Mount & thumb screws
-Hot Racing motor mount
-Hot Racing alum spindles
-Tekno SCTE rear Outdrives & CV axles
-Avid bearings
-Jammin transponder mount
-RPM rear bumper mount
-XRay diff Washers
-HPI 2mm hex diff screws
-Added larger sway bar capture screws bc the stock ones strip the hole.

I broke a rear body mount, that didnt affect anything really. The big issue is making sure you SHIM the rear diff properly. If you do not you can run the risk of having the rear pinion bearings blow out and take the whole rear diff with it. Ive seen it happen 3 times already.

Besides that, one chassis dent I pounded out. The rear edge of the chassis wears fast. The A Arms get ovaled out pretty fast. Nothing major. Tiny tweak in an axle shaft, slight bend but isnt affecting performance.

Shocks & pistons are great. Springs suck, but we know that already. Way too soft. Stripped 1 wheel nut last week. Dont overtighten stand off mount nuts, they will snap.

Outdrives are wearing good, no excessive slop anywhere. Keep an eye on your king pins up front, make sure the set screws stay tight.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I think that's good service from the drive line except for the diff bearing issue. Where are your a-arms getting ovaled out? Or is it the inserts/pills getting loose. The longer 59mm hinge pins on the rear fix that for me.
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:58 PM   #951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
After approx 12 race weekends, and around 50 heats on the truck so far... Id like to report things are holding up really good so far. (Attached are pics of my front out drives, which show very little wear).

What Ive done:

-TLR alum top plate
-TLR Clamping hexs
-TLR alum R diff inserts
-TLR 2.0 style batt Mount & thumb screws
-Hot Racing motor mount
-Hot Racing alum spindles
-Tekno SCTE rear Outdrives & CV axles
-Avid bearings
-Jammin transponder mount
-RPM rear bumper mount
-XRay diff Washers
-HPI 2mm hex diff screws
-Added larger sway bar capture screws bc the stock ones strip the hole.

I broke a rear body mount, that didnt affect anything really. The big issue is making sure you SHIM the rear diff properly. If you do not you can run the risk of having the rear pinion bearings blow out and take the whole rear diff with it. Ive seen it happen 3 times already.

Besides that, one chassis dent I pounded out. The rear edge of the chassis wears fast. The A Arms get ovaled out pretty fast. Nothing major. Tiny tweak in an axle shaft, slight bend but isnt affecting performance.

Shocks & pistons are great. Springs suck, but we know that already. Way too soft. Stripped 1 wheel nut last week. Dont overtighten stand off mount nuts, they will snap.

Outdrives are wearing good, no excessive slop anywhere. Keep an eye on your king pins up front, make sure the set screws stay tight.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

what hpi 2mm screws?? are you talking the screws that hold the gear to the diff? If so do you have a part #??

I currently have a couple 2.0's my main 2.0 has the upgraded dogbone center drive, King Headz motor mount/double bearing diff support, and top diff brace, also have Tekno front and rear cvd shafts, aluminum rear hub carriers, aluminum rear diff bearing inserts, aluminum top plate, complete 3.0 bellcrank/steering arms/ends, and aluminum 15 degree front spindle carriers. do you know if all these upgraded parts will switch over? I'm planning on buying a 3.0 so I have 22 shocks on all my cars (also have 3.0 buggy, 2.0 stadium truck, and 2.0 sct. My plan is to buy 3.0, tear apart my 2.0 and install all upgraded parts on 3.0, rebuild 2.0 basically stock and keep it as spare.
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Old 01-02-2017, 01:14 PM   #952
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Originally Posted by jaw8850 View Post
what hpi 2mm screws?? are you talking the screws that hold the gear to the diff? If so do you have a part #??
HPI z449
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:16 PM   #953
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Thank you!
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:27 PM   #954
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Default R10.1 Feasability

Building this now, got an R10.1 esc available and would love to use it. Read about potential issues with the 4 pole firmware/software. Anyone running this? Looking at tekin pro 4 HD ideally, but if there are issues will go with Orion's 550 4 pole, given that I have the esc available.

Last edited by teekv1; 01-02-2017 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:52 PM   #955
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Originally Posted by teekv1 View Post
Building this now, got an R10.1 esc available and would love to use it. Read about potential issues with the 4 pole firmware/software. Anyone running this? Looking at tekin pro 4 HD ideally, but if there are issues will go with Orion's 550 4 pole, given that I have the esc available.
I've been running orion r10.1 too pair with orion 550 2 pole 4T best combo that i have very smooth. If you you pair with 4 pole motor make sure upgrade your ESC firmware to 4 pole.
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:03 PM   #956
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Not sure if you guys know this or not. The 3.0 front arms reach further forward than the 2.0 arms. So the wheelbase is actually about the same as the 2.0.

I have driven 3 3.0s. They all had a strange feeling to me. If i caught a tube or rut odd. The truck would just kinda take off on me. Flip over or shoot me across the track. I went back to the 2.0 arms. And my truck feels so much more controlled in those situations. Made my truck easier for me to drive. Lap times improved very slightly. But my consistency has gone back up. I guess you can tune with the arms and use it similar to the "sweep" adjustments the tekno has.

Also i used the 2.0 arms with 3.0 knuckles. You will need a little shim work to make this work. So there is more adjustment there now too.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:04 PM   #957
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Wrong thread.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:10 PM   #958
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Wrong thread.
Not sure if your talking about my post. But my post was in reference to the SCTE.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:14 PM   #959
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Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
Not sure if your talking about my post. But my post was in reference to the SCTE.
The SCTE doesnt have sweep adjustment.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:46 PM   #960
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Originally Posted by jaw8850 View Post
I currently have a couple 2.0's my main 2.0 has the upgraded dogbone center drive, King Headz motor mount/double bearing diff support, and top diff brace, also have Tekno front and rear cvd shafts, aluminum rear hub carriers, aluminum rear diff bearing inserts, aluminum top plate, complete 3.0 bellcrank/steering arms/ends, and aluminum 15 degree front spindle carriers. do you know if all these upgraded parts will switch over? I'm planning on buying a 3.0 so I have 22 shocks on all my cars (also have 3.0 buggy, 2.0 stadium truck, and 2.0 sct. My plan is to buy 3.0, tear apart my 2.0 and install all upgraded parts on 3.0, rebuild 2.0 basically stock and keep it as spare.
Not much to salvage. Keep the aluminum rear diff bearing inserts. Clamping wheel hexes would also be worth keeping for the 3.0 rig. Tekno bones are heavy and the 3.0 parts have been updated and are best parts to have for light wt and sharp turning. The 3.0 front carriers are 15 degree and fit best. No need for the aluminum carriers now. The stock motor mount is money. The outdrive cups on center diff are much smaller and the extra bearings in the King Heads unit will not come close to touching them. Just adds wt. You could keep the aluminum top plate. If your 2.0 is in good shape install the 3.0 front suspension and enjoy the 3.0 handling without buying the new truck until its wore out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
Not sure if you guys know this or not. The 3.0 front arms reach further forward than the 2.0 arms. So the wheelbase is actually about the same as the 2.0.

I have driven 3 3.0s. They all had a strange feeling to me. If i caught a tube or rut odd. The truck would just kinda take off on me. Flip over or shoot me across the track. I went back to the 2.0 arms. And my truck feels so much more controlled in those situations. Made my truck easier for me to drive. Lap times improved very slightly. But my consistency has gone back up. I guess you can tune with the arms and use it similar to the "sweep" adjustments the tekno has.

Also i used the 2.0 arms with 3.0 knuckles. You will need a little shim work to make this work. So there is more adjustment there now too.
IMHO, I think you did something wrong if you didn't like the 3.0 front suspension. Its one of the best features of the 3.0 truck. Well, not the springs. I have tested every combo and lap times confirm this. However, I know a different truck on a different track might not handle better. It is a very subjective topic that will come down to the driver.

Yes the 3.0 front a arms make the 2.0 longer. I was surprised in how close the trucks are after installing 3.0 front suspension on my 2.0 and there is still not a clear winner on the outdoor or indoor track I have tested on.

Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread

Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
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