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Old 12-15-2016, 11:25 AM   #886
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme View Post
Ok, fair enough. Eventually I will upgrade to the full 3.0 truck. But first I'm picking up the new 2wd 3.0 SCT first. I race 2wd class alot more than I do 4wd. But for argument's sake, in general for someone running ANY of the versions of the SCTE trucks with the motor in line with the chassis, which way do you go with center diff viscosity for added steering response? Thicker or thinner fluid? I noticed that with the angled motor setup, the center diff is using a thicker 7k fluid. Just trying to figure out which way to go and under what conditions?
IMO, thicker tends to loosen the car up. That wouldn't really be the setup change I'd make to increase steering. Do you have a setup sheet you can post, it'll give us some better ideas of what to suggest.
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:44 AM   #887
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Right, I would look more into Sway bars, caster, front toe and camber before I mess with the diff oils.
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Old 12-15-2016, 03:00 PM   #888
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I'm going to switch to a thicker rear sway bar and see what that does for me. I looked at my truck and realized I was running a fairly thin rear sway bar. If it doesn't give me the change I want, I'll come back here and seek further counsel. Ultimately I know that I'll need the new truck in order to remain competitive on indoor tracks this winter season. My current handling is fine on larger outdoor tracks. But I won't be on a track that size again til May at the earliest. So I'll just do some minor tuning to get me by until then....
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:47 PM   #889
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[QUOTE=wittyname;14767822]
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i have the hudy book already...and it opposes what the TLR article says...

the hudy book states that raising the inner camber link lowers the roll center and increases body roll - but the TLR article states that lowering the inner camber link provides more roll.

can you shed light on that? im going with my gut and what i've always known that raising the inner camber link lowers the roll center which in fact increases body roll.[/QUOTE]



Something seems off here ...

what you have always known and what your gut are telling you seem to be opposite .
that last statement is wrong. i must have just typed it wrong comparing the two articles my bad. i know raising the inner link lowers roll center increasing roll.
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:59 AM   #890
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Originally Posted by Troyster View Post
I raced the second points race at debbie's and there was another 3.0 there...maybe yours? I won 4wd sct and e-lite; had a box set-up on the 3.0 with just a lowered ride height so this may be a good place to start at that particular track. I can run this truck about the same pace as my e-lite at that track. Gonna try to make the race on Wed night (if they are running) so maybe I will see you there.
Man , how did ya like that 2nd round of qualifying ? Some of my worst laps in history , but easily the most fun qualifier I have raced in a long long time. Truck is a lot faster than I am as it is , I probably shouldn't change a thing and just buy tires ...
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Old 12-16-2016, 10:00 AM   #891
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme View Post
Thanks for the input. I just wanted the general diff question answered. I figured the answer would benefit everyone, regardless of which version of the truck we're driving. Otherwise, I would've simply asked the question in a PM. I can clearly see on the track how the new 3.0 truck is driving much better than previous versions. I can't match the cornering ability of anyone driving one with my current truck. So I'm just looking for a few "band-aid" remedies to get me by until I ultimately upgrade to the SCTE 3.0. In truth, I was all set to order the new truck last month, but then TLR announced the release of a new 22SCT 3.0 and I scrapped that plan in order to get that truck first! Hopefully I'll still be able to get the SCTE 3.0 sometime later in 2017. But until then, I'll just have to get by with my old truck.
I just wanted to say you are doing fine with the 1.0 truck. A few upgrades and that rig drives through turns with the best of them. I kept a 1.0 around for a long time and often raced it if my 2.0 needed maintenance or repair.

7K in center diff can help the front pull more. Keep in mind that the 3.0 front suspension adds length to the front of the truck. I ran the thin sway bar up front, sometimes I ran no sway bar on high traction indoor tracks. I'm sure you could tune that truck for more steering and run closer to the newer trucks than most would ever think possible. However, a chassis upgrade to the 2.0 would be worth it now that you can find them dirt cheap. 3.0 chassis upgrade is not much more if you shop around. IMHO, That would be the logical way to proceed since you have many upgrades already.
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:43 PM   #892
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Man , how did ya like that 2nd round of qualifying ? Some of my worst laps in history , but easily the most fun qualifier I have raced in a long long time. Truck is a lot faster than I am as it is , I probably shouldn't change a thing and just buy tires ...
Yeah the second round was interesting and so was the end of the main as my transponder/race system were not cooperating and I had three 30 second laps as it missed three laps.....confused everyone on the podium! Oh well, it happens...

I finally had to move away from a total stock setup as I broke the zero pill in the rr bracket and went to 3.5 toe to finish the night. I will probably go back to zero pills for 3.0 toe. Stock setup has been good for 32-33 laps which will win on that current track setup most race days....
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:55 AM   #893
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I replaced my sway bar screws with larger ones. They're way better now. To access the front screws, i reamed two holes in the front bumper. For the rear, i upgraded to the RPM rear bumper mount and it allows easier access to the rear sway bar screws.

Im running the 45mm stock rear shocks on the front with the stock front pistons. And im running 48mm 22T rear shocks on the the rear. This shock set up gives more down travel and feels really good.
What shock shafts are you using in the 22t rear shock? TLR 5075? The TLR 5075 has been discontinued. I'll keep researching. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:19 PM   #894
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What shock shafts are you using in the 22t rear shock? TLR 5075? The TLR 5075 has been discontinued. I'll keep researching. Thanks in advance.
I am having great success with the long shock conversion. These Teknos stand absolutely no chance. Every A main is 90% 3.0s!

Stock 45mm rear shocks moved to the front with the 1.0 pistons and Silver rear springs & 475 oil up front.


Rear shocks are 48.5 mm body (TLR5076) with the 57.5mm shafts (TLR233004) and the stock 1.1 pistons, Orange rear springs & 425 oil.

These shocks were $12 on ebay for bodies & shafts.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:28 PM   #895
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I am having great success with the long shock conversion. These Teknos stand absolutely no chance. Every A main is 90% 3.0s!

Stock 45mm rear shocks moved to the front with the 1.0 pistons and Silver rear springs & 475 oil up front.


Rear shocks are 48.5 mm body (TLR5076) with the 57.5mm shafts (TLR233004) and the stock 1.1 pistons, Orange rear springs & 425 oil.

These shocks were $12 on ebay for bodies & shafts.
Thank you. Found the tlr5075 over seas and will be here after January. Boo. I'd like to make the new year's race. You've been a big help. Thank you again.
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Old 12-18-2016, 03:51 PM   #896
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I am having great success with the long shock conversion. These Teknos stand absolutely no chance. Every A main is 90% 3.0s!

Stock 45mm rear shocks moved to the front with the 1.0 pistons and Silver rear springs & 475 oil up front.


Rear shocks are 48.5 mm body (TLR5076) with the 57.5mm shafts (TLR233004) and the stock 1.1 pistons, Orange rear springs & 425 oil.

These shocks were $12 on ebay for bodies & shafts.
Those are the right spring rates. I like the idea. What shock towers? Any track pics or video of races there?
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:45 PM   #897
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I am having great success with the long shock conversion. These Teknos stand absolutely no chance. Every A main is 90% 3.0s!

Stock 45mm rear shocks moved to the front with the 1.0 pistons and Silver rear springs & 475 oil up front.


Rear shocks are 48.5 mm body (TLR5076) with the 57.5mm shafts (TLR233004) and the stock 1.1 pistons, Orange rear springs & 425 oil.

These shocks were $12 on ebay for bodies & shafts.
What are your track conditions?
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:58 PM   #898
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Well... The stock 3.0 shock towers of course. This is the 3.0 thread.

Track is a large
indoor clay off-road track.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:03 PM   #899
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Originally Posted by sykemike View Post
Thank you. Found the tlr5075 over seas and will be here after January. Boo. I'd like to make the new year's race. You've been a big help. Thank you again.
You can get the parts on eBay in the USA.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:22 PM   #900
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These Teknos stand absolutely no chance. Every A main is 90% 3.0s!
At least until the 410.4 releases!
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