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Old 12-08-2016, 03:04 PM   #841
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After reading through the forums I just ordered this truck as opposed to the Tekno. Having previously owned the original Scte that is heavily modded and upgraded its good to see now it comes with lots of FT parts.

Does anyone knows if a HW Xerun V2.1 120A ESC is enough to handle a 5T 550 2 poles or a 540 4 poles 4500kv motor?
Will be more than fine if you gear it like a sane person. The HW sct esc was originally 120a unit and it ran great.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:45 PM   #842
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Will be more than fine if you gear it like a sane person. The HW sct esc was originally 120a unit and it ran great.
What starting gearing should I use for the SMC 4500kv 540 4 pole motor for a medium sized outdoor 1/10 track?
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:34 AM   #843
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15-16t
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:43 PM   #844
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Does anyone knows if a HW Xerun V2.1 120A ESC is enough to handle a 5T 550 2 poles or a 540 4 poles 4500kv motor?
I was running the HW V2.1 120A with a Ballistic 4.5T 550 2 pole with ZERO issues in my 2.0. I have it geared with a 15T pinion, 10 degrees of boost and 5 degrees of turbo. Needless to say is was a rocket. At this point in time my 2.0 has received the new XR10 Pro and I am extremely pleased with the performance of it.
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Old 12-10-2016, 12:07 PM   #845
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Does anyone know the length of the turnbuckles? All of them...before rod ends
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Old 12-11-2016, 06:40 AM   #846
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Is it OK to order 22,s shock springs individual off eBay or are they bad shock springs too? Since all the trouble with the 3.0 .
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:11 AM   #847
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Is it OK to order 22,s shock springs individual off eBay or are they bad shock springs too? Since all the trouble with the 3.0 .
I'm sure someone is going to blow a gasket when I say this, but here it is. All the new 22 springs I purchased to include the ones in my kit had problems. All were purchased from Horizon in hopes of getting the most current parts.

A set of 3 fronts had different rates and coil count not equal. One was a complete out cast from all others and one had 2 colors of paint on it. I purchased two sets of rear springs, Red and Silver. Not off much out of the package, but they sagged out very quickly. Ride height needed to be adjusted between lipos. Heck, if I had a pit man he would have been cranking down shock collars every 3 laps and that's being nice about it.

Very disappointed. No solution except Horizon sending me more of the same springs with the same problems. Between broken shock standoff and springs I wasted 3 weeks of my time on issues that should not exist.

I did buy some grey associated springs that fit and worked great, but they rubbed on the shock body. That bothers me for some reason. Maybe the idea of a new updated truck that had metal to metal contact happening all the time was just wrong for some reason.

Anyway, I had left over tuning springs from my 2.0 trucks and it seemed like the logical answer was right in front of me. A quick check and sure enough I had the rates I needed. Test fit confirmed they would work but didn't fit well. A very talented friend offered to make collar adapters for the 2.0 tuning springs. Problem solved by using the adapters, 2.0 springs and spring cups with light dremel work to swing arms for clearance. A few hundred laps later and this fix certainly seems permanent for me.
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:15 AM   #848
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I'm sure someone is going to blow a gasket when I say this, but here it is. All the new 22 springs I purchased to include the ones in my kit had problems. All were purchased from Horizon in hopes of getting the most current parts.

A set of 3 fronts had different rates and coil count not equal. One was a complete out cast from all others and one had 2 colors of paint on it. I purchased two sets of rear springs, Red and Silver. Not off much out of the package, but they sagged out very quickly. Ride height needed to be adjusted between lipos. Heck, if I had a pit man he would have been cranking down shock collars every 3 laps and that's being nice about it.

Very disappointed. No solution except Horizon sending me more of the same springs with the same problems. Between broken shock standoff and springs I wasted 3 weeks of my time on issues that should not exist.

I did buy some grey associated springs that fit and worked great, but they rubbed on the shock body. That bothers me for some reason. Maybe the idea of a new updated truck that had metal to metal contact happening all the time was just wrong for some reason.

Anyway, I had left over tuning springs from my 2.0 trucks and it seemed like the logical answer was right in front of me. A quick check and sure enough I had the rates I needed. Test fit confirmed they would work but didn't fit well. A very talented friend offered to make collar adapters for the 2.0 tuning springs. Problem solved by using the adapters, 2.0 springs and spring cups with light dremel work to swing arms for clearance. A few hundred laps later and this fix certainly seems permanent for me.
Are the spring collar adapters for sell?
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:27 AM   #849
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Oh, do you take PayPal?
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:19 AM   #850
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Oh, do you take PayPal?
Send PM if you want a set.
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:38 AM   #851
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Got a slight off power push on my new 3.0 I am coming from a 2wd backround and it may be my driving style. I have one of the local fast guys setup which is Maifields setup with a few changes, 2.0 front and 1.8 rear swaybars, 2.5 anti squat and front shocks in the #2 hole. Everything else is same. I am braking before the turn and rolling threw to get it to rotate then getting back on power. If i come in to hot it seems I can't recover and have to snap the rear around to get it to turn. Should I be on the brakes threw the turn or before. Im learning this whole 4wd thing so bear with me if I sound like a newb. Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:25 AM   #852
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Default new SCTE 3.0

Due to budget so close to the silly season, I ended up getting a Hobby King Turnigy 5.0T 2 pole 550 motor. Does 16T sounds like a reason pinion to gear with for starters?
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:49 AM   #853
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Got a slight off power push on my new 3.0 I am coming from a 2wd backround and it may be my driving style. I have one of the local fast guys setup which is Maifields setup with a few changes, 2.0 front and 1.8 rear swaybars, 2.5 anti squat and front shocks in the #2 hole. Everything else is same. I am braking before the turn and rolling threw to get it to rotate then getting back on power. If i come in to hot it seems I can't recover and have to snap the rear around to get it to turn. Should I be on the brakes threw the turn or before. Im learning this whole 4wd thing so bear with me if I sound like a newb. Thanks.
4wd will not have the turn-in like a 2wd. Being full time 4wd they will push into a corner more especially if you are on the brakes hard as the fronts may lock up. A little is driving style and knowing how and when to brake and then actually using the 4wd to your advantage an let the front tires pull the truck through the corner. If you need more steering a sway bar change, front camber link or maybe even a tweak to the diff fluids may be in order for you track and driving style.

This was for the 2.0 but all applicable to the 3.0 and basically all 4wd cars. May help you see if you can find something else that might work for you.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:25 AM   #854
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:55 AM   #855
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4wd will not have the turn-in like a 2wd. Being full time 4wd they will push into a corner more especially if you are on the brakes hard as the fronts may lock up. A little is driving style and knowing how and when to brake and then actually using the 4wd to your advantage an let the front tires pull the truck through the corner. If you need more steering a sway bar change, front camber link or maybe even a tweak to the diff fluids may be in order for you track and driving style.

This was for the 2.0 but all applicable to the 3.0 and basically all 4wd cars. May help you see if you can find something else that might work for you.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf
in this article it says raising the inner camber link provides less roll...this is the opposite i've heard from every other source. i've always understood that raising the inner camber link position and lowering the outer lowers the roll center thus INCREASING the roll potentially providing more steering if the grip is needed from the roll - is my thinking wrong here?

ALSO in the article you posted it states a long camber link provides less roll - but in this article it states a long camber link provides more roll...

can you or anyone shed light on these inconsistencies? i've been running into a lot of conflicting information lately...

http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/tc/print.htm
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