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Old 11-28-2016, 08:32 PM   #811
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Going to a piston with holes that big is going to cause bottoming in the first place. I would put the stock pistons back in.
Never go back to stock piston. I like more avid piston than stock piston. With a triple jump the stock piston more bottoming than 2x1.3 piston. It's make my truck better handle than stock piston.
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:26 AM   #812
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Frank,
Whats the front & rear droop measurements that work best?
If you are using 22 style shocks and 3.0 towers you can use full droop, full length of shock with no load. You might want to adjust droop screws on rear for less droop if using the inside hole on rear a arm.
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I Don't have any slop. The rod ends are actually tight. No slop in the steering.

Here are my gripes:
I wish the steering bell crank where the steering links attach was beefier. And I don't like how there's no steel nut. It's just screws into plastic... I wish it was beefier.
My chassis seems to be wearing rather fast in the very rear edge.
I also wish there were adjustable steering stops in the knuckle.
The sway bars center mounting design & tiny screws. I just don't like it at all. Also the sway bar screws are completely blocked by the bumpers and very hard to access.
One last one...
The motor mounting plate, the center hole where the shaft comes through the plate is too small. My pinion set screw rubs. The hole needs to be bigger.
I understand your point about the steering not being through bolted at the bell cranks, but to my knowledge no one has ever had a problem since 2009 with said design. I have used 3mm screws there for different metric ball links and then went back to STD screws that fit looser and still never moved. Dee Racing makes skid plates for rear, 3 to a pack for $7 and they last me a year on some rough tracks. No more chassis wear. Not sure about advantage of steering stops as we all wanted more steering angle in the past and the 3.0 carriers and front a arms with J shaped rod ends at the hub provide just that. The 3.0 axles also offer more steering angle to match. Love it in those low speed 180s. It is the ticket tying all the new front steering together. The redesigned front end on the 3.0 is the best part about the new truck so far! Use long hex drivers on front sway bar after you drill hols in the bumper for fast access. I just take the two top bumper mount screws out and pull bumper down myself. long hex drivers are my favorite everywhere on the truck. They reach into these areas saving my knuckles. I feel the same about the motor plate and pinion fitment. Seems that the Losi pinions fit best, but I have drilled out a few motor plates to fit other pinions I share with all my 1/8 scale rigs with no durability issues.
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Never go back to stock piston. I like more avid piston than stock piston. With a triple jump the stock piston more bottoming than 2x1.3 piston. It's make my truck better handle than stock piston.
If we were talking about the black plastic pistons from the V1 or 2.0 I would agree Avid is better. However, the new white Delrin pistons for the 22 style shocks fit excellent and tolerances are head and shoulders above any piston I used in the blue body shocks. Those shock bodies never had best fit or wear resistance like the newer shocks on 2.0 and none compare to the 22 design in any way. Springs are a different story...
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:41 PM   #813
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I replaced my sway bar screws with larger ones. They're way better now. To access the front screws, i reamed two holes in the front bumper. For the rear, i upgraded to the RPM rear bumper mount and it allows easier access to the rear sway bar screws.

Im running the 45mm stock rear shocks on the front with the stock front pistons. And im running 48mm 22T rear shocks on the the rear. This shock set up gives more down travel and feels really good.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:49 AM   #814
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Frank,
Whats the front & rear droop measurements that work best?
96.5 in the rear and full droop in the front.
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:24 AM   #815
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I replaced my sway bar screws with larger ones. They're way better now. To access the front screws, i reamed two holes in the front bumper. For the rear, i upgraded to the RPM rear bumper mount and it allows easier access to the rear sway bar screws.

Im running the 45mm stock rear shocks on the front with the stock front pistons. And im running 48mm 22T rear shocks on the the rear. This shock set up gives more down travel and feels really good.
I just wanted to say, that has got to be the most custom shock set up I have ever heard of. At the same time its the most odd ball setup. Is this working for you racing? Faster lap times? Less crashes because it soaks up 1/8 scale track jumps and pot holes?

I think it would traction roll on the tracks I race on with so much uptravel unloading in corners. Even so, I know if you put in the effort you can make just about anything work.

Personally, I have found the 2.0 springs on the 22 style shocks to be the best option currently available. Lap times are down and my long term highly developed 2.0 truck has met it's match.

However, I'm sure there is a little more on the table if I installed the shocks and rear tower from the 3.0 truck to my 2.0 rig. I may do just that in the future to see if the shocks along with the already installed 3.0 front suspension can make the truck worthy of turning the same or faster lap times. My 2.0 truck is lighter by 25g, so they are about the same. I believe if your 2.0 is in good shape, the front suspension off the 3.0 can get you close without buying the new truck. I like them both for different reasons. After so much time and effort on the 2.0 it will continue getting track time and offer backup service if needed.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:50 PM   #816
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Yeah man... There just wasn't enough travel for my liking. Running the center holes on the arms, or outside hole on the front arm... There was barely any down travel at all. Im running the 45mm stock rears on the front with silver rear springs. And 48.5 22T stock rear shocks on the rear with Orange springs. Nothing oddball about it at all... Same shocks, same pistons, except slightly longer. Up travel isn't affected.

Benefit is now you can actually use the droop screws to fine tune your droop. With the stock shocks the shocks limited down travel so much you really didn't need to use the droop screws at all.

Handles great. Love it
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Old 12-04-2016, 05:14 PM   #817
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What are your droop settings? Any idea what the limits are before you have issues with axle plunge at full droop?
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:03 AM   #818
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What are your droop settings? Any idea what the limits are before you have issues with axle plunge at full droop?
Ill have to measure. Im not sure exactly.

The only reason I did this mod was because the outermost holes on the arms are kinda useless if you can't get any down travel. I run on some extremely rough blown out tracks with big 35 foot jumps.. so having down travel is important to me to soak up big hits. I was limited to basically running the center hole on the arms. And i want to be able to tune with the outside hole too and still get enough droop out of the front. Dog bone angle seem fine, but ill measure this week and see.
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #819
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Default Rear shock tower

I'm trying to convert a 2.0 to a 3.0. Will the 3.0 rear shock tower work on the 2.0? Will this lower the body posts? I'll get the 3.0 shocks also when I order. Thank in advance.
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:25 AM   #820
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I'm trying to convert a 2.0 to a 3.0. Will the 3.0 rear shock tower work on the 2.0? Will this lower the body posts? I'll get the 3.0 shocks also when I order. Thank in advance.
Just get the 22 shock conversion kit for the SCTE, it includes the shock tower also.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR334029
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:37 AM   #821
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Just get the 22 shock conversion kit for the SCTE, it includes the shock tower also.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR334029
Does this lower the body post?
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:59 AM   #822
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The body posts are adjustable , shouldn't have any problems keeping the height you want
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Old 12-05-2016, 06:13 PM   #823
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What are your droop settings? Any idea what the limits are before you have issues with axle plunge at full droop?
My droop is 100 in the rear and 91 in the front.
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:14 PM   #824
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Does kit come with the TiNitrate gold shock shafts?
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:05 AM   #825
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No it comes with the better TiCN coating that is more durable than the TiNi coating they used to use. They are dark grey in color.
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