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Old 11-22-2016, 02:17 PM   #766
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Just 2 questions: 1) Does this truck have nose down issues and 2) Is the rear super loose coming down a straight into a sweeper?

If not, I'm in
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
No it doesn't have nose down issues. If a truck does have nose down issues, you can remove nose diving with proper shock tuning.
Most quality vehicles that are "super loose" can be made to hook up much better with proper tire selection and tuning, along with throttle contol.
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I never thought the old truck had a nose down issue. The truck will be unstable if you try and drive it through an end of the straight sweeper at full speed. I always tap the brakes to set the front end before a VERY high speed turn like that and then get back in the throttle as you get in the sweeper. Truck has great high speed stability IMO though. You can always increase rear toe and lock in the rear more. You can play with rear hub position as well.
So , I got a used truck that I know was fast in the other owners hands . I put my electronics in it and set ride height and my first outing was nose dive city. I had other problems too so the track visit was cut short. Next time I ran the truck was a small indoor club race and I had nose dive issues there as well. I raised the front a few mm higher than the rear which did wonders . The other thing I did was go up 3 teeth on my pinion gear , something I learned my first go with the scte. Fact is , if your hitting larger jumps when the truck is already at mostly full speed you will likely have nose overs if you don't have enough kv or wheel speed to correct it . A 4000 kv in my truck would never fly right , a 4700 never had issues. As for stability , I cant say enough how well the truck drives. The shock package is impressive . With the motor tilted I have enjoyed being able to get back on power sooner and the rear end works really well. First time driving the truck ever , running the class indoors for the first time ever , 1st time driving short bus again in 3 years I managed to qualify 3rd and missed the podium just barley. Did I mention how good the shock package is ?
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Old 11-22-2016, 02:26 PM   #767
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I agree that quality of bearings makes a difference. However, the most expensive bearings don't seem to be the best choice for off road. Most stock bearings are ABEC 1 which works well with grease because they are not so tight inside to start with. They can deal with a little dirt better as well without locking up.

IMO, It is best to compromise and get some of both by going middle of the road. A ceramic ABEC 3 with grease is likely the best for any off road application. Anything higher will have tight tolerances that don't roll if dust or foreign material get inside. They lock up easy so that's not what we need offroad. I do use ceramic ABEC 3-5 in sealed gear boxes and they are my first choice for high RPM motors. I often use the stock ABEC 1 on all wheel bearings and I'm surprised how long they last. ABEC 3 would be better. I recommend this option to those wanting to use better bearings.

That said, I do love grade 3 and 5 ceramics everywhere in my rig using just oil for lube. Nothing is faster for one race day. Take notice of the ONE RACE DAY. That's 4-6 lipos depending on practice. After that the smaller wheel bearings in 1/10 scale often need cleaning. ((Larger 1/8 scale bearings can go longer)) This is a high maintenance route to gain very little advantage. It is faster, it does run cooler, and it does reduce some weight. One crash and waiting for a turn marshal erases all of that. I can say it is nice to have the Ceramic quality bearings throughout your rig spinning so freely. Only you can decide if the cost and maintenance is worth it. JMHO
Old timer showed me a little thing he did that I have adopted ... I keep a steady rotation of wheel bearings in a sealed bottle with 0w 20 mobil 1 in it. Take the old out of the truck , brush them off , then drop them in the bottle . Pull 2 out and install them . I cannot say its faster or cheaper , but I have not had a bearing actually seize up , come apart , or cost me a race since I started doing it about 3 years ago. For full disclosure , I don't buy the oil just for this . Its share amongst a few other hobbies.
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:30 AM   #768
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The rear hubs are meant to be on the stiffer side and do have some composites in them. They were also beefed up around the hinge pins some time back but some may never have seen this running change as they either ran the aluminum ones or didnt break the older plastic ones.
I did not know about the a arms, but I did find some NOS Ten T a arms that felt soft compared to the newer units. That explains it. Before I forget, let me thank you for all your work on this truck in the past!

Was this composite ever used on the gearbox? Any chance we might see this happen?

Much of the plactic in my 3.0 kit is softer than all Ten T, V1 or 2.0 stuff I have had. This might sound strange, but some of it seem to harden up more after a few weeks of original build. Is that even possible?
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:40 AM   #769
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Old timer showed me a little thing he did that I have adopted ... I keep a steady rotation of wheel bearings in a sealed bottle with 0w 20 mobil 1 in it. Take the old out of the truck , brush them off , then drop them in the bottle . Pull 2 out and install them . I cannot say its faster or cheaper , but I have not had a bearing actually seize up , come apart , or cost me a race since I started doing it about 3 years ago. For full disclosure , I don't buy the oil just for this . Its share amongst a few other hobbies.
I use Mobil 1 in everything I own. My favorite oil for RC is a mix of 5w30 synthetic with a little cam break-in lube mixed in. A shot of Break Free tops off the mystery mix. Shake well before each use. Don't tell anyone about the secrete sauce.
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Old 11-23-2016, 03:08 PM   #770
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Losi is replacing all the rear diff parts that got destroyed from the bearing failure. Top notch customer service!
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Old 11-23-2016, 06:52 PM   #771
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Here my SCTE 3.0 with Front/Rear Kyosho spring orange super hard 28 ride height got TQ and 3rd place in AMAIN.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm2oCDMDHWs&t=111s

Last edited by raved007; 11-23-2016 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Youtube link in public
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:19 PM   #772
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Here my SCTE 3.0 with Front/Rear Kyosho spring orange super hard 28 ride height got TQ and 3rd place in AMAIN.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3t1rePzRcjc
it says video is private
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:55 PM   #773
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it says video is private
Just update the video sorry.
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Old 11-24-2016, 12:46 AM   #774
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Just update the video sorry.
You still didn't make it public, so no one can see it still
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:49 AM   #775
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You still didn't make it public, so no one can see it still
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm2oCDMDHWs
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:19 PM   #776
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Great race footage! Truck looked good. Are you running the lipo front or rear? I thought it was pushing at times in the 180 corners? It looked good at the end of the straightaway though. Those kyosho springs rub the shock body any? Thanks for sharing the race video!

I was able to turn a lot of laps at indoor track yesterday. Using the aluminum shock collar adapters and the 2.0 TLR tuning springs worked out great. I had too much steering after being setup for outdoor track with less traction. Still only .4 off the fastest lap on the the current layout held by local pro with Tekno. I was burning laps to learn the layout and test springs. Black front and Red rear worked great and I plan to test others. Any adjustments I make to take some steering out will only improve my lap times.

I used box setup but with lipo up front using middle screw holes on lipo holder. The 2.0 TLR tuning springs are night and day better than the kit springs. Suspension action looks good on the track and truck doesn't bottom out easy. Ride height holding at 25mm using slightly smaller tire, Barcode.
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:22 PM   #777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Here my SCTE 3.0 with Front/Rear Kyosho spring orange super hard 28 ride height got TQ and 3rd place in AMAIN.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm2oCDMDHWs&t=111s
I ordered the Rear super hard Orange X Gear Kyosho big bore springs 4 days ago. They were $8 on Amazon. Man... 28mm is high. Im not sure ive ever ran over 26mm. Normally i run 25mm indoors.
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:28 PM   #778
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If you Watch the TLR 3.0 video on YouTube. Frank says for indoors they run the 4 degree plate, and battery in rear. For outdoors they run the battery up front with the zero degree plate. Since its indoor season im running thevrear battery set up.
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Old 11-24-2016, 11:52 PM   #779
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There a list of parts that indicate which parts won't be compatible between the 2.0 and 3.0? Have some left over parts from my scte 2.0 and want to know what I should keep since I plan on getting a 3.0. Thanks
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Old 11-25-2016, 12:50 PM   #780
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Guys, i came across a great upgrade for the diff screws. HPI makes the exact size diff screw, but it comes with a 2mm hex head instead of the tiny 1.5mm hex. The 2mm hex is much less likely to strip and makes tightening much easier. I bought some today and they work great.

The part number is: HPI Z449
(Pic attached)
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TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-screenshot_20161125-154710.jpg  
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