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Old 11-19-2016, 09:23 PM   #751
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Originally Posted by sykemike View Post
Wondering how you keep the bearings clean?
You take your truck apart, and clean the dirt off the outside of each bearings. You dont need to pull the seals off. New bearings are $1.00 each. When the bearing gets crunchy, you replace it.

I rebuilt my truck about 3 times a month. Everything gets cleaned. You gotta keep the bearings clean if you want them to last longer than a month or so. The diff bearings will last a long time because they don't get coated with dirt. The wheel bearings will only last a month or two if you don't keep them clean (if you race every weekend). I clean my entire rig after every race, clean the bearings and axles and regrease the axle CV joints. It's good to replace the wheel bearings every 2-3 months. And the diff bearings about once a year.
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Last edited by Barillms; 11-19-2016 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:35 AM   #752
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You take your truck apart, and clean the dirt off the outside of each bearings. You dont need to pull the seals off. New bearings are $1.00 each. When the bearing gets crunchy, you replace
I rebuilt my truck about 3 times a month. Everything gets cleaned. You gotta keep the bearings clean if you want them to last longer than a month or so. The diff bearings will last a long time because they don't get coated with dirt. The wheel bearings will only last a month or two if you don't keep them clean (if you race every weekend). I clean my entire rig after every race, clean the bearings and axles and regrease the axle CV joints. It's good to replace the wheel bearings every 2-3 months. And the diff bearings about once a year.
Thank you very much. That was a big help.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:37 AM   #753
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IMO, For most outdoor tracks using oil in wheel bearings last about 20-25 lipos. That's about 400-500 laps for me. The rear wheel bearings need it before front. They get more dirt to them than others. I clean mine with RPM bearing blaster and motor cleaner. Takes some time to remove seals and such. I use thin oil and it is gone by this point. If I am building a rig for my kid or a new racer I use plenty of grease knowing they can't realize any benefit from higher maintenance if they do any maintenance at all. Grease is going to last longer, maybe 4-6 months. That might be 3,000 laps! At that point most bearings need replacement. However, if I clean them before they get bad (no lube or real gritty) I can get another 6 months out of them and its time for complete rebuild anyway. I use quality bearings, even the cheap $1 bearings can be stretched to last a long long time. I'm about saving money where I can, comes from my days of racing with no budget for any part that could be used longer or oiled daily to get the most out of it. READ POOR FARM BOY

From my experience, its a small but noticeable trade off in performance to use grease in the bearings. Use oil if you want the racer advantage at the cost of higher maintenance. If you are not a serious racer or just don't want to do the extra work, use grease and don't worry about it. Its a very small difference off road with all the other variables.

A clean indoor track or carpet might allow you to run oil longer, but grease could last you an entire year of racing. Just check wheel bearings by removing the wheel, then camber rod and turning the axle by hand. You will know when its time to address it. I can't explain how mad you will be if you blow out a bearing during the main or dump a battery when you are up front because you should have done bearing maintenance one race sooner
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:36 PM   #754
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Default Bearings blew out: Race Day #4

I qualified 4th, ran 3 heats and was running good. Truck felt great. During the A Main yesterday I got taken out by a young kid on lap 1 and was in last. I battled back from 9th to 4th and after about 6-7 laps and I was squeezing hard down the long front straight, and flicked the breaks and my truck made a loud squeel. I knew something was wrong.

Anyway, i kept pushing waiting to feel something wrong. I made it another lap, then it started grinding and slipping. So i pulled over to a Marshall to get me.

The inner bearing in the rear diff housing that supports the rear pinion gear completely blew apart. It ruined the pinion gear, the diff housing, both 5x11x4 pinion bearings and the spacer. The ring gear is ok.

This 4 race days. 14 heats total.
Pics are attached
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TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161120_170017.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161120_165943.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161120_172330.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161120_174042.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161120_174118.jpg  


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Old 11-21-2016, 12:39 AM   #755
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I qualified 4th, ran 3 heats and was running good. Truck felt great. During the A Main yesterday I got taken out by a young kid on lap 1 and was in last. I battled back from 9th to 4th and after about 6-7 laps and I was squeezing hard down the long front straight, and flicked the breaks and my truck made a loud squeel. I knew something was wrong.

Anyway, i kept pushing waiting to feel something wrong. I made it another lap, then it started grinding and slipping. So i pulled over to a Marshall to get me.

The inner bearing in the rear diff housing that supports the rear pinion gear completely blew apart. It ruined the pinion gear, the diff housing, both 5x10x4 pinion bearings and the spacer. The ring gear is ok.

This 4 race days. 14 heats total.
Pics are attached
Those bearings are 5 X 11,,,,

Holly crap Batman! Always happens when you are having a good run at the top 3 and you were getting it done. That was a bad one. Seen this before. The bearings on the pinion shaft take a beating for their size and the power we have. The spacer between the two bearings is a big help.

I use ceramic bearings here and I put some grease between them before pressing the two bearings and the spacer into the gear box. That grease allows a bearing to seize up and still have some lube for the shaft to rotate inside the bearing race a few laps to get me by if and when this happens. So far since doing this I have had a ceramic ball inside the bearing chip, but continue to operate and get me by to finish a heat and a main. A grade 5 ceramic bearing used here with the grease last me about 100 lipos or 6 months of hard racing. If they are in good shape I can get another 50 runs, but that's about it. They might still roll good but you can tell they have slack and are not as tight as they should be. In the past I was able to get 100 runs on stock bearings here, but power is way up the last 2-3 years as lipos have improved another notch or two.

Its a good idea to grab the drive cup on the pinion between events and check for play. It should have a small amount of movement, but anything more is good indication you are about to experience a failure. Better luck on the next set.

By the way, any thoughts on the gearbox plastic? Is it too soft? I see a lot of flex in mine. Wish they were the same material used in the new rear hubs/uprights.
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:02 PM   #756
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Just 2 questions: 1) Does this truck have nose down issues and 2) Is the rear super loose coming down a straight into a sweeper?

If not, I'm in
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:35 PM   #757
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Just 2 questions: 1) Does this truck have nose down issues and 2) Is the rear super loose coming down a straight into a sweeper?

If not, I'm in
No it doesn't have nose down issues. If a truck does have nose down issues, you can remove nose diving with proper shock tuning.
Most quality vehicles that are "super loose" can be made to hook up much better with proper tire selection and tuning, along with throttle contol.
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Last edited by Barillms; 11-21-2016 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:38 PM   #758
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I never thought the old truck had a nose down issue. The truck will be unstable if you try and drive it through an end of the straight sweeper at full speed. I always tap the brakes to set the front end before a VERY high speed turn like that and then get back in the throttle as you get in the sweeper. Truck has great high speed stability IMO though. You can always increase rear toe and lock in the rear more. You can play with rear hub position as well.
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Old 11-21-2016, 02:13 PM   #759
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By the way, any thoughts on the gearbox plastic? Is it too soft? I see a lot of flex in mine. Wish they were the same material used in the new rear hubs/uprights.
I don't know much about Losi plastic. This is my first modern Losi, but coming from a few years with Tekno I can notice the plastic doesn't tighten against as well. The threads seem soft and its hard to guage tightness. There's alot of things i could suggest to improve the truck no doubt. But a bearing failing after 4 races and taking $40 worth of parts with it on a brand new truck is pretty disappointing. Those bearings are definitely too small lol
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Old 11-21-2016, 02:58 PM   #760
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I know rear bearings have failed and caused issues here but I have not had one fail to take out the diff housing like that. That just seems like a bad bearing or something else not right there. They should not go like that,that soon for sure.

I have not had any issues at all with the diff housing plastics. they are a a little soft but no issues with screws biting.
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Old 11-21-2016, 05:06 PM   #761
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I really like the material used in the rear hubs. Seems like its reinforced with graphite to make it stiff. Same for front on 3.0 truck. You can instantly tell bearings fit tight and feel right during install. Maybe Ryan can share what that stuff is made of if he had anything to do with the upgrade?
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:15 PM   #762
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Ive talked to quite a few peoplee about this bearing issue and its definitely a cheap quality bearing thats causing this. Not the housing, the diff, or the kit.

So... My recommendation to you is ORDER some 5x11x4 bearings from Avid from the get go. Ceramic are $5 each, that's a bit more than i wanted to spend. I got the $1.00 revolution bearings, ive been running them for years without any issue. Replace these cheap stock bearings ASAP and grease up the pinion bearings on the inside of the housing. Maybe it will help keep them cool, not sure. Its worth a try. Definitely replace the stock ones.
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:17 AM   #763
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What we need is for this tech to develop into small bear manufacturers. This would pretty much take care of a lot of issues we have with what we have to work with now.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:14 PM   #764
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Default Best Bearings for offroad?

I agree that quality of bearings makes a difference. However, the most expensive bearings don't seem to be the best choice for off road. Most stock bearings are ABEC 1 which works well with grease because they are not so tight inside to start with. They can deal with a little dirt better as well without locking up.

IMO, It is best to compromise and get some of both by going middle of the road. A ceramic ABEC 3 with grease is likely the best for any off road application. Anything higher will have tight tolerances that don't roll if dust or foreign material get inside. They lock up easy so that's not what we need offroad. I do use ceramic ABEC 3-5 in sealed gear boxes and they are my first choice for high RPM motors. I often use the stock ABEC 1 on all wheel bearings and I'm surprised how long they last. ABEC 3 would be better. I recommend this option to those wanting to use better bearings.

That said, I do love grade 3 and 5 ceramics everywhere in my rig using just oil for lube. Nothing is faster for one race day. Take notice of the ONE RACE DAY. That's 4-6 lipos depending on practice. After that the smaller wheel bearings in 1/10 scale often need cleaning. ((Larger 1/8 scale bearings can go longer)) This is a high maintenance route to gain very little advantage. It is faster, it does run cooler, and it does reduce some weight. One crash and waiting for a turn marshal erases all of that. I can say it is nice to have the Ceramic quality bearings throughout your rig spinning so freely. Only you can decide if the cost and maintenance is worth it. JMHO
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Old 11-22-2016, 03:12 PM   #765
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I really like the material used in the rear hubs. Seems like its reinforced with graphite to make it stiff. Same for front on 3.0 truck. You can instantly tell bearings fit tight and feel right during install. Maybe Ryan can share what that stuff is made of if he had anything to do with the upgrade?
The rear hubs are meant to be on the stiffer side and do have some composites in them. They were also beefed up around the hinge pins some time back but some may never have seen this running change as they either ran the aluminum ones or didnt break the older plastic ones.
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