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Old 07-26-2016, 08:10 PM   #61
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The battery mounts are flipped on the 3.0, the chassis is wider. So the battery mount holds the 'outside' of the battery now. The chassis braces hold the 'inside' of the battery. On the 2.0, the battery mounts held the inside of the battery and the mud guard held the outside of the battery.

Also, if you removed the rear chassis brace on the 2.0, you'd pop out the rear center driveshaft, and probably bend the chassis. I've never seen or heard of anyone doing this.
Interesting, and thanks for the response. I looked at the pics a little more to see what you mean.
Anyhow that is what I thought to about the removal of the chassis braces, but people do do it. I am not one of them however, I always thought it was sorta goofy to be honest for the reasons you mentioned. But this was also before the floating dog bones where the thing to do, so maybe the standard CV joints don't pop out as easy. Who knows.
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Old 07-26-2016, 09:48 PM   #62
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I was doing this mod about 5 months ago. It did help with the loose tracks having more weight up front.

In this picture the ESC was mounted up on a carbon plate for testing a heavier back weight, but I later drilled the front holes and shifted the whole battery forward like they are doing now, so I could set the ESC all the way down on the pan.

What was the plan for the shocks? Trying to add more unsprung weight? Lower COG?
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:09 PM   #63
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Honestly it started out as a last ditch effort to reduce the leaking problem on the 2.0 shocks, which it actually did very well.
I did actually pick up corner speeds without rolling as easily due to the lower CG I assume, and the truck felt more settled.
I know it added a little unsprung weight, but the difference was nearly unnoticeable in my opinion, but a pro might be able to feel the difference.
The only issue I found with doing this was the fact the top caps where obviously to large to fit the arms without modifying the arms by boring out a clearance pit into them, which in turn took away the ability to move the shocks in or out on the arm. Once I chose where to leave the shock, it had to be modified in a way that made the other holes useless.

I did get a lot of head shakers with this mod, but as I stated before and still will, if the arms where built to accommodate the inversion I still feel this is the best mounting solution for lowing CG. Any of the negative effects seemed to be negligible at best vs the gains I experienced. But this is all my opinion of course.
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:38 PM   #64
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Frank would you get the same steering throw out of the 15 degrees aluminum spindle carriers as you would out of the plastic 3.0 carriers if you was to put the aluminum 15 degree spindle carriers on the 3.0
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:52 PM   #65
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Frank would you get the same steering throw out of the 15 degrees aluminum spindle carriers as you would out of the plastic 3.0 carriers if you was to put the aluminum 15 degree spindle carriers on the 3.0
Yes, you should.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:00 AM   #66
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i'm still racing the 1.0. i luv it more every summer i race this thing outdoors.
it's a heavy pig of a truck with big losi eight shocks makes the ride so smooooooth.

i got say this new 3.0 truck sounds like just the weapon i need for indoors!!!
all the bells and whistles this thing is gonna be a winner. all ready have one on order.


running without the rear brace in your truck????? you will bend your chassis for sure.
if you want more flex try a shorter chassis brace.
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:02 AM   #67
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Default Front Inserts...

I would like to see adjustable front inserts that can change front arm sweep. Currently, if you place the battery in front the car is nose heavy. Adjusting sweep allows for the car to jump "better".

Does anybody have any ideas about how to get adjustable sweep for the SCTE?

Thank you,
Glenn
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:15 PM   #68
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Default Body question

Will bodies be available before the kit ships? Or will the 2.0 body fit? Also, if pre ordered from Horizon Hobby do you know when the 3.0 kit will ship out?
I'm very excited for it, this will be my first kit since I sold my XXXT 11 years ago.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:51 AM   #69
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Just ordered a SCTE 3.0 can't wait to get it and race it. Looks awesome.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:48 AM   #70
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Same body
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:15 PM   #71
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Will bodies be available before the kit ships? Or will the 2.0 body fit? Also, if pre ordered from Horizon Hobby do you know when the 3.0 kit will ship out?
I'm very excited for it, this will be my first kit since I sold my XXXT 11 years ago.
You want TLR8060 or TLR8061, which are both already available.

Kits should ship end of August or the first part of September. Just depends on a few shipment/customs dates.
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:45 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by glennmathias View Post
I would like to see adjustable front inserts that can change front arm sweep. Currently, if you place the battery in front the car is nose heavy. Adjusting sweep allows for the car to jump "better".

Does anybody have any ideas about how to get adjustable sweep for the SCTE?
Frank,

Is it possible to make offset hinge pin holders for the front of the SCTE to make the front sweep adjustable?

Thank you,
Glenn
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Old 08-01-2016, 08:32 AM   #73
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Why do you want to do this? You want to adjust the front arms like we sweep the rear arms for toe in adjustment?

The front end is already setup to adjust kickup. I suppose in theory you could change a pivot to make one of them adjust front toe but that is what the steering link can be used for. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish here.
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Last edited by Casper; 08-01-2016 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:24 AM   #74
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Why do you want to do this? You want to adjust the front arms like we sweep the rear arms for toe in adjustment?

The front end is already setup to adjust kickup. I suppose in theory you could change a rear rear pivot to make one of them adjust front tow but that is what the steering link can be used for. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish here.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:51 AM   #75
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Front Arm Sweep (as per Tekno)
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and o power.

With less front arm sweep, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the
ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your o-power steering.

With more front arm sweep, the stub axles are being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to more arm sweep is jump landing. With the arms back, the vehicle settles much faster which allows you to get on the throttle quicker. During breaking and o throttle the front end will drop less and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.

More Front Arm Sweep-
More Control Entering Corner
Better Jump Landing
Better On Smooth High Grip Tracks

Less Front Arm Sweep-
More O-Power Steering
More Weight Transfer Under Braking
Better on Bumpier Tracks

I did this change on my 4wd buggy and it flies as strait as an arrow.

I would like to see this adjustment on the SCTE (to help with jumping with the battery in the front of the car).

Another video that explains sweep in terms of nose diving:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPEmeSQ1678

I am really torn on which SCT to buy. This change would clinch it for me.

Thank you,
Glenn
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