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Old 11-12-2016, 03:44 PM   #706
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ok need help i have the groov on the trunbuckl to the left side but on get short i i pull to the front and one gets long iff i pull to the front they all are off set to the left?
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:36 PM   #707
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ok need help i have the groov on the trunbuckl to the left side but on get short i i pull to the front and one gets long iff i pull to the front they all are off set to the left?
Clockwise makes them longer. Counter clockwise makes them shorter... when looking at the link from the notched side (left side of the car).
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:42 PM   #708
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What would be the must hv upgrades when buying this truck?......the main ones I can see to make it bullet proof are pinch bolt wheel hexes, alloy diff inserts, alloy steering horn.......anything else I would need guys?
Hoping to purchase before Xmas all going well
Must have are:
#1 Clamping wheel hexs
#2 TLR aluminum steering top plate
#3 Silver Rear Springs
#4 Brown front springs
#5 +4 Spring retainer cups on all 4 shocks
#6 TLR aluminum servo horn
#7 X Ray diff washers
#8 Stainless steel screws for diffs (they don't strip)








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Last edited by Barillms; 11-12-2016 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:53 PM   #709
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If your at the track and don't have your shock oils with you and the rear of the truck is chassis slapping, is there any thing I can change or do? Thanks in advance.
Raise the ride height. All trucks are going to bottom out, thats normal.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:56 PM   #710
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In racing lips battery electric buggys/trucks, do y'all repeak the lipo battery just before you set it on the track like we did to nicad's in the early 90"s ?
Nope. Always balance charge them. Thats all you have to do.
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:18 PM   #711
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Raise the ride height. All trucks are going to bottom out, thats normal.
Thank you very much
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:18 PM   #712
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Nope. Always balance charge them. Thats all you have to do.
Thank you very much
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:25 PM   #713
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Must have are:
#1 Clamping wheel hexs
#2 TLR aluminum steering top plate
#3 Silver Rear Springs
#4 Brown front springs
#5 +4 Spring retainer cups on all 4 shocks
#6 TLR aluminum servo horn
#7 X Ray diff washers
#8 Stainless steel screws for diffs (they don't strip)
.
Is that the offset horn for the 22? do you have a part number for the x-ray washers?
cheers Aaron
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:01 PM   #714
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Is that the offset horn for the 22? do you have a part number for the x-ray washers?
cheers Aaron
There are many servo horns that will work, but the 22 horn seems to be popular.

Diff washer info provided in link I gave you. Check out the first post, everything you need to know about the diffs to include screws are covered.
How to Build SCTE bulletproof Diffs

Stanless steel is soft for screws. SS screws don't hold up as well as harden steel. Its a fact. Titanium is nearly as good as steel, but expensive and sometimes you don't get the quality titanium. i have had great results with Mugen titanium screws, but those are metric.

IMO the upper steering plate to have is made by King headz. The plastic one flexes and I have broke a few on 2.0 truck and pulled screws out on the Losi unit when used as Pro8 conversion.
This is the final one time fix:
http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...5ecc160cbdf8ea
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:11 PM   #715
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Is that the offset horn for the 22? do you have a part number for the x-ray washers?
cheers Aaron
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:59 PM   #716
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Cheers guys, thanks for the info
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:08 PM   #717
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Some good news on the Associated shock springs. I used the gray springs front and rear recommended by Cutter in this thread. I left truck sitting 6 days on tires with lipo and body on, so full weight. I cycled shocks a few times but mostly let it sit. I just spent 30 mutes cycling the shocks and scaling the truck again. Results are good with less than 1.mm of sag. That tells me the springs are not going to sag out. Only thing I don't like is the rear shock springs are lightly rubbing the shock body. I was able to turn the spring to a few different spots where it barely hits. Annoying, but they fit good and work. Its a direct fit and springs are longer providing optimum amount of adjustment in either direction to get perfect ride height.
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:14 PM   #718
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Is that the offset horn for the 22? do you have a part number for the x-ray washers?
cheers Aaron
Im running the offset horn for the 22.
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:18 PM   #719
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Stanless steel is soft for screws. SS screws don't hold up as well as harden steel. Its a fact. Titanium is nearly as good as steel, but expensive and sometimes you don't get the quality titanium. i have had great results with Mugen titanium screws, but those are metric.
Ive been using stainless steel screws from McMaster Carr in my Tekno diffs for 2 years. And now im running them in my SCTE diffs and they haven't stripped out at all. Much better than stock, and you can get 20 of them for $5.
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Old 11-14-2016, 04:51 AM   #720
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Some good news on the Associated shock springs. I used the gray springs front and rear recommended by Cutter in this thread. I left truck sitting 6 days on tires with lipo and body on, so full weight. I cycled shocks a few times but mostly let it sit. I just spent 30 mutes cycling the shocks and scaling the truck again. Results are good with less than 1.mm of sag. That tells me the springs are not going to sag out. Only thing I don't like is the rear shock springs are lightly rubbing the shock body. I was able to turn the spring to a few different spots where it barely hits. Annoying, but they fit good and work. Its a direct fit and springs are longer providing optimum amount of adjustment in either direction to get perfect ride height.
Thanks for the testing. Our whole team has moved to the AE truck springs now.

We did a demo run at a 1/10th buggy indoor meeting a couple of weeks back with four of the trucks being the 3.0 and there has been a lot of interest in how well they ran on the carpet and the local dealer has them flying off the shelves. Hope we see a further pickup in the class.
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