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Old 11-08-2016, 10:31 PM   #661
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Welp, I took apart my rig... Cleaned it up and did more work trying to free up the ass end.

I came to realize a few things need done to get the rear suspension to free up... and here's what you should try doing:

#1: A arms need beveled and trimmed a tiny bit. The beveling allows you to add rear toe, without rubbing. And shorten them maybe 1mm or so. You can use a flat file or a sharp exacto. It works and is necessary.

#2 the sway bar likes to bind up also. Trim the sway bar ends about 3mm and it helps tremendously. And make sure the set screws aren't tight.

#3 the rod ends are also sticky. Pop them in and out a few times, and they'll loosen up.

One other thing i noticed is standing the shocks up more (outside Hole on tower) helps the suspension to rebound better. It seems to give it more action and feel less dead.

In the front, I had my shocks in the outside hole on the A arm. This was limiting the droop quite a bit. I moved the shock to the middle hole on the Arm and if seems to have freed up the front end more and provided more droop.

Otherwise my truck feels good now. Im going to experiment with set ups in the next few weekends. So far it handles great.

One issue i had, was the rear axle dogbone crosspin. I caught it before it fell out, but it started to work loose. I pressed it back in and used some thin CA glue to help hold it. It worked so far. But I was surprised it came loose so fast.
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Old 11-08-2016, 10:42 PM   #662
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Heres my rig:

Hobbystar 4300HD
Hobbywing XR8 SCT 140amp
Savox 1267
13t pinion
Hobbystar 8000mah 100c
Hot Racing Center Diff mount
Hot Racing spindles
TLR aluminum Top Plate
Jammin CF transponder moubt
Brown front springs
Silver rear springs
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TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-20161109_011811.jpg  
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:28 AM   #663
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Great info. Thanks for sharing.

I'm testing the Grey Front Truck springs AS91637 4.45lb and Grey Rear 2.6lb AS91641. Big thanks to Cutter for the part numbers. They hold the truck up with lots of adjustment left. Only negative so far is the rub on shock bodies. I have left them loaded with weight a couple of days to see how much they sag.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:45 AM   #664
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One issue i had, was the rear axle dogbone crosspin. I caught it before it fell out, but it started to work loose. I pressed it back in and used some thin CA glue to help hold it. It worked so far. But I was surprised it came loose so fast.
I missed this. Was it tight when you pressed it back in? Do you think it will hold? Might help to hammer the ball end if it does this again, and locktite that puppy.

I have replaced a few pins in e buggy and some on SCTE Tekno center shafts that refused to wear out CV end. Only remember one in question about how easy pin went in. Hammer seem to work as it lasted another year. The wheel axle CVDs seem to wear out long before the drive cup pins, so have not replaced those. Lot of force back and forth on them when on and off throttle.

One thing that has stood out on 3.0 center dog bones is noise from slack. My truck really makes some noise when going to hard brakes at full speed. The center dog bones are taking a beating. The extra play front to rear the bones have might be allowing the bone to slam front to rear when going from throttle to brake. Any thoughts on that?
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:50 AM   #665
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
I missed this. Was it tight when you pressed it back in? Do you think it will hold? Might help to hammer the ball end if it does this again, and locktite that puppy.

I have replaced a few pins in e buggy and some on SCTE Tekno center shafts that refused to wear out CV end. Only remember one in question about how easy pin went in. Hammer seem to work as it lasted another year. The wheel axle CVDs seem to wear out long before the drive cup pins, so have not replaced those. Lot of force back and forth on them when on and off throttle.

One thing that has stood out on 3.0 center dog bones is noise from slack. My truck really makes some noise when going to hard brakes at full speed. The center dog bones are taking a beating. The extra play front to rear the bones have might be allowing the bone to slam front to rear when going from throttle to brake. Any thoughts on that?
Those bones can't fit tight, you'd bend one the first time you land a jump if they were a net fit.
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:00 PM   #666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Welp, I took apart my rig... Cleaned it up and did more work trying to free up the ass end.

I came to realize a few things need done to get the rear suspension to free up... and here's what you should try doing:

#1: A arms need beveled and trimmed a tiny bit. The beveling allows you to add rear toe, without rubbing. And shorten them maybe 1mm or so. You can use a flat file or a sharp exacto. It works and is necessary.

#2 the sway bar likes to bind up also. Trim the sway bar ends about 3mm and it helps tremendously. And make sure the set screws aren't tight.

#3 the rod ends are also sticky. Pop them in and out a few times, and they'll loosen up.

One other thing i noticed is standing the shocks up more (outside Hole on tower) helps the suspension to rebound better. It seems to give it more action and feel less dead.

In the front, I had my shocks in the outside hole on the A arm. This was limiting the droop quite a bit. I moved the shock to the middle hole on the Arm and if seems to have freed up the front end more and provided more droop.

Otherwise my truck feels good now. Im going to experiment with set ups in the next few weekends. So far it handles great.

One issue i had, was the rear axle dogbone crosspin. I caught it before it fell out, but it started to work loose. I pressed it back in and used some thin CA glue to help hold it. It worked so far. But I was surprised it came loose so fast.
One thing I would like to mention is in regards to your front shock mounting hole in the A arm. On the SCTE 1 and 2, we pretty much ALWAYS ran the outside hole. So, on the 3.0 we made the original outside hole the middle hole and added an outside hole. So, to run where you ran the 2.0 at, you should use the middle hole in the front a arm.
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:19 PM   #667
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What have I done? I have a 15 tooth pinion gear with stock 40 tooth spur and took it out on the road and front yard to get temp reDings and time it. Big mistake. I got 9 minutes and 22 seconds at a 202 degree temp reading. The race track I'm racing on is this Sunday and this is my first race with it. Should I go down a pinion tooth or things will be different on the small outdoor track? Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:08 PM   #668
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I agree with you Frank. It must have some room for chassis flex. Its just noisy. Even more room on my 2.0 with same bones and it looks strange to slide the rear bone fore and aft so much, but it works good.

sykemike, run a motor fan. Gear down to 14t and run 0 timing if you have a 4 pole motor. Hope you didn't burn up that motor. They don't last long at 200+
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:11 PM   #669
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I agree with you Frank. It must have some room for chassis flex. Its just noisy. Even more room on my 2.0 with same bones and it looks strange to slide the rear bone fore and aft so much, but it works good.

sykemike, run a motor fan. Gear down to 14t and run 0 timing if you have a 4 pole motor. Hope you didn't burn up that motor. They don't last long at 200+
Brand new Tekin RX8 esc and tekin HD 4300kv.brand new. I'm scared to run it now. I didn't like the 202 degree temp reading for my first run.
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:13 PM   #670
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Brand new Tekin RX8 esc and tekin HD 4300kv.brand new. I'm scared to run it now. I didn't like the 202 degree temp reading for my first run.
Is this a 4 pole motor? I'm new to this electric racing. I know it's sensored. It came in a combo pack.
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:24 PM   #671
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Yeah its a 4 pole and should have zero issues in that truck with that pinion. You need to take a close look at things and see what's up .
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:28 PM   #672
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Yeah its a 4 pole and should have zero issues in that truck with that pinion. You need to take a close look at things and see what's up .
Would it be because of being new and not broke in? Where should I begin looking?
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:39 PM   #673
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Maybe cause I'm heavy. I don't know how much. I have the scbe buggy body on it.
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:54 PM   #674
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Maybe cause I'm heavy. I don't know how much. I have the scbe buggy body on it.
Maybe a tooth up in spur gear. A 41
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:13 PM   #675
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Maybe cause I'm heavy. I don't know how much. I have the scbe buggy body on it.
I'll weight it tonight when I get to work. The only thing that's not 3.0 is shocks, hinge pin holders and body.
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