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Old 10-31-2016, 11:24 AM   #571
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Never even attempted 3S in this truck however you should be getting much better runtime then that.
Thats here in the Dominican Republic. In Puerto Rico, they run 4s.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:31 AM   #572
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I don't disagree with high voltage systems in these trucks but you can make them go crazy fast if your not careful. I think they are boarderline too fast on 2S however that is really hard on batteries and ESC's. Important to get the gearing right for sure and use the correct motors rated for 3S/4S applications.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:43 AM   #573
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I can tell you from my " back in the day " experiences , That 2400 castle motor , and the stock losi 2800 motor ( the 550 4 pole ) absolutely run like a raped ape all day on 3s in a short course truck ... That 3800 is lot of kv for 3s . However those sub 3000kv 4 poles are the real deal on 3s if you aren't interested in sensored set ups.
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:32 PM   #574
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I can tell you from my " back in the day " experiences , That 2400 castle motor , and the stock losi 2800 motor ( the 550 4 pole ) absolutely run like a raped ape all day on 3s in a short course truck ... That 3800 is lot of kv for 3s . However those sub 3000kv 4 poles are the real deal on 3s if you aren't interested in sensored set ups.
a lot of guys here use the Slash Platinum with the 3500kv Velineon motor on 3S and run fantastic. But this is a whole different set up. We also have a lo tof Teknos and stuff runnin on 4S (its a no battery restriction class). The Castle 3800kv IS made for 3S... Im gonna drop the gear to a 13 tooth and check the programming on the ESC I guess.
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:35 PM   #575
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I am preppin the SCTE to run the Psycho Nitro Blast (another no battery Restriction race) but dont want to go as high as runnin 4S, since that race prohibits the SC's to use any 1/8 mods.
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:59 PM   #576
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I would say a nice 2s setup indoor is best, though it is hard on batteries.

3s would be ideal in general if setup mildly but it's a little fast and heavy for smaller indoor tracks.
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:11 PM   #577
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I would say a nice 2s setup indoor is best, though it is hard on batteries.

3s would be ideal in general if setup mildly but it's a little fast and heavy for smaller indoor tracks.
any experience on gearing for 3S?
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:43 PM   #578
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any experience on gearing for 3S?
unfortunately not, im just saying because 4x4 SCT pushes 2s to the absolute limits 3s makes a lot of sense at least in some applications.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:01 PM   #579
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a lot of guys here use the Slash Platinum with the 3500kv Velineon motor on 3S and run fantastic. But this is a whole different set up. We also have a lo tof Teknos and stuff runnin on 4S (its a no battery restriction class). The Castle 3800kv IS made for 3S... Im gonna drop the gear to a 13 tooth and check the programming on the ESC I guess.
"Extreme performance in 2WD SCT/CORR vehicles on 2S. Perfect for racing 4WD SCT/CORR vehicles on 2S in high temperature environments. Max recommended vehicle weight 6.5 lbs."

Right from the mouth of the manufacturer. You can fight it all you want , but that set up on 3s , geared as high as your gearing it , is going to stink.

NOW , the motor I recommended , the 1415 2400 is actually the motor made for sc trucks on 3s and will give you the performance your after.

" This system is designed for 3S to 4S, 5,000+ mah, 25c or better LiPo. 3S is the recommended set up, 4S is extreme."

30,000 to 35,000 total motor rpm is almost always the sweet spot in E setups.

The 2400 at 7.4v is 17,760
The Tekin pro 4 4000 on 2s 29,600
The Hobbywing 4700 on 2s 34,780

Youre motor on 3s is 42,180
The 2400 on 3s 26,640

Take it a step further and look at 4s set ups .

Tekin 1900 on 4s . 28,120
Tekin 2050 on 4s. 30,340

Those are hands down the most popular kvs for 1/8 buggy racing .

Castle 2200 on 4s 32,560
Castle 2650 on 4s 39,220

Look on the web at how many guys could not get 2650s of 4s to run cool in a 1/8 buggy.

Sorry , but your just asking too much out of that set up to get GOOD results. 42,000 rpm loaded or not is going to get hot , and heat is wasted power and energy....
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:33 PM   #580
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"Extreme performance in 2WD SCT/CORR vehicles on 2S. Perfect for racing 4WD SCT/CORR vehicles on 2S in high temperature environments. Max recommended vehicle weight 6.5 lbs."

Right from the mouth of the manufacturer. You can fight it all you want , but that set up on 3s , geared as high as your gearing it , is going to stink.

NOW , the motor I recommended , the 1415 2400 is actually the motor made for sc trucks on 3s and will give you the performance your after.

" This system is designed for 3S to 4S, 5,000+ mah, 25c or better LiPo. 3S is the recommended set up, 4S is extreme."

30,000 to 35,000 total motor rpm is almost always the sweet spot in E setups.

The 2400 at 7.4v is 17,760
The Tekin pro 4 4000 on 2s 29,600
The Hobbywing 4700 on 2s 34,780

Youre motor on 3s is 42,180
The 2400 on 3s 26,640

Take it a step further and look at 4s set ups .

Tekin 1900 on 4s . 28,120
Tekin 2050 on 4s. 30,340

Those are hands down the most popular kvs for 1/8 buggy racing .

Castle 2200 on 4s 32,560
Castle 2650 on 4s 39,220

Look on the web at how many guys could not get 2650s of 4s to run cool in a 1/8 buggy.

Sorry , but your just asking too much out of that set up to get GOOD results. 42,000 rpm loaded or not is going to get hot , and heat is wasted power and energy....
Thanks, thats actually what I needed to hear. The hard truth... and yeah, I race ebuggies with 2200kv, and tried a 2650kv motor and it would run extremely hot, changed back to the 2200kv on my 1/8th. I guess that I will have to dail the motor back to run 3S, or dial the number higher to be competitve at that level runnin on 3S. Thanks bro
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:00 PM   #581
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I sold my friend my SCTE and I run Tekno now, but he put a 4s setup in the SCTE and within 1 day snapped the CVD.. lol, he was running sensorless though, so it was kinda twitchy.

Sadly, I do miss my Losi at times though, I love how my Tekno handles, but the look of it.. ugh, so much plastic!
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:02 PM   #582
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AE do 54mm long front springs and 72mm long rear springs in sets. you can use them with the normal shorter spring perches on your front shocks without issues. i have a set of grey front and rear to start testing with.
I change front and rear shock eyelet from kyosho 5.8 long to get the 28 ride height and also kyosho rear spring part # KYOXGSO33 orange/super hard can purchased in losipartshouse.com i have a great successful with large jump without slapping chassis.
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:05 PM   #583
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Spring diam has nothing to do with it. It is material, and coils mean more. Yes larger diam wire will change spring stress some but there is something else going on here. Will chat with Frank about this some. I have been running 22 shocks on my truck for most of the year and have not had ride height issues like you are having at all so it is not diam of springs at all. Also the weight of the truck is not the issue either. The spring can support the weight with rate and stroke or it can't.
I thought the springs were big enough before I experienced these issues. I sent Frank my first set of red springs that were sagging bad with one side way more than other. I think I had 4 lipos on them, I didn't get a response on what he thought after looking them over.

I know your right about the material and that does seem to be the issue. However, the larger 2.0 springs don't seem to have these issues and wire size is about the same. I expect new springs to have some settling, but this has been beyond normal and it never seems to stop. Gets lower and more uneven after every run. The front springs seem to be less of an issue, but same problem. About 3-4 lipos before I notice fronts are not at ride height.

I think its a problem more wide spread than anyone will admit. Its not about the money I have wasted on these springs, its about the frustration of not being able to get a proper fix from Losi. No matter how great the truck is the springs make it useless after a few runs.

IMHO, We need a few TLR Team Drivers to grab a 3.0 kit off the self and do a ground up build with the sole purpose being to identify quality control issues. Identify Mistakes in the manual, number or letters on parts bags and everything a fresh builder would experience. Then have these same TLR guys track test it 25 lipos with inspections after every 5 runs. Checking ride height, take springs off the truck and testing them with a spring tester.

Additionally, they need to confirm the other things we, the end users, already identified for free. Wrong part number in manual for lower spring cup on rear shocks, Bag ID markings, holes off on chassis braces, too soft material on front bumper mount, lower shock screws are too short, upper shock standoff material weakness, No instructions for using the shims to get proper backlash on ring and pinion, No instructions for the 3 degree plate option, diff screw problems, rear hinge pins too short, binding on rear arms and anything else associated with shock springs.

Things are different on this side of the fence. TLR guys at the top are not dealing with or experiencing the frustration that comes with these problems. I'm sure many TLR guys are racing the 2.0 or a pre-production truck that is not an off the shelve kit like we have.

Again, Big thanks for any help you can provide. We just want to fix it
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:35 PM   #584
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To all of you that want to run 3s or 4s, it does work better as in less heat and more efficient power. However, the drive train will require more maintenance and frequent parts replacement. If you use common sense with throttle and brakes you can minimize the impact of the power by turning brake power down and using some punch control. No reverse to forward antics or ring and pinion gears will strip teeth or worse. We tested and punished the 2.0 with lots of abuse in the Pro8 Super Lite Buggies. After all that I ran 4s in truck a while and it was great, just not legal everywhere. I would stick with 3s if legal and you will have more than enough power. My 2s truck turns nearly the same lap times as the ebuggies. The real advantage of 3s or 4s would be lower price of lipos and less puffing of $100 batteries. Run a motor fan if you can no matter which way you go. cheap insurance.
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:49 PM   #585
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Ever since i started using a cap pack on my RX8, I haven't had any puffed packs, or high temps on my Pro4 4300 w/15t pinion. I use 70-90c packs and it runs amazing... Same top end as my EB basically (keeps up or passes some EB's on the straight) I don't see a need for 3/4s anymore, at first I hated my 2s setup cause of run times.. but once i switched to 7200mah packs, its been great. I was jelly of my EB's looooong runtimes with a 7200 4s.... but the 7200 2's arent bad!
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