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Old 10-17-2016, 01:13 PM   #496
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Default Forward battery setups

That's a awesome video dude. Is there not anybody running a forward battery setup with the 3 degree center diff position and esc in back behind the battery? Just wondering what diff fluids and shock oils? Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:29 AM   #497
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Guys! This is the best 3.0 race footage available right now and it will not disappoint. Really shows how close the 2.0 and 3.0 trucks are and this race will keep you on the edge of your seat! I wont give up the finish, but the 3.0 is setting up front on the pole.

Enjoy!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82zLLUTwBCg
I believe that was an MIP conversion and a 3.0
Granted the 2.0 is a close comparison to the MIP since they where prototyped at roughly the same time, but in all fairness it can't truly be considered a 2.0 with the MIP chassis.
Many still consider the MIP the better of the two vs the 2.0, but that was before the revision 2.0 v2 and in my mind the differences are negligible once the proper ups are installed on the 2.0 and both companies certainly compliment each other in their upgrade list.
MIP center braces where ever prevalent on the 2.0 and the 2.0 alloy caster blocks where on the MIP in due time as well.
Since then, the 22 shocks and free center dog bones can only be appreciated from losi.
All technicalities aside, that was a nail biting race worth the watch for sure!

Last edited by Josh L; 10-18-2016 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:37 AM   #498
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Race report. Outdoor track, damp early and nearly dry near end of mains with medium to smooth surface and little fluff on top in corners. Truck was good just about everywhere, but seems a little off the mark in some way. I have been testing combo of kit setup, Maifield and Hacker, but motor in stock config, not kicked out to side. I did test motor kicked out, but not best for my track. Slightly slower through the corners than 2.0 truck. Could be chassis balance left to right. I'm playing with lipo position to balance it. Balance front to rear is real close to my 2.0 truck. I currently have lipo up front and need to test other locations. I tested inside a arm on rear shocks and the landings were very soft. It soaked up bumps with ease. Might work better with less droop. Then I tried the middle on arm and it was better. All shocks feel good, but I am starting to notice some spring sag up front. I adjusted the front spring collars down with no threads showing to get 25mm ride height as day went on. I'm thinking these springs are off as well, so I plan to replace them soon. Using 59mm rear hinge pins to take slop out. On my truck the kit 58mm pins allow the rear a arms to move a lot. Shorter pins appear loose in the tapered part of the inserts. I really noticed it after taking 1mm off rear a arms to stop binding between suspension holders. 2.0 pins or M2C 59mm pins fix this for me.

I qualified second with 3.0 truck. I finished 3rd in the first of triple mains. Then I swapped to 2.0 truck for a 1st place finish in 2nd A main. Final main I was 2nd and thus finished 2nd overall. The 2.0 was a little faster and easier to drive on the edge. I'm searching for that sweet spot. Still have lots of things to test. There is very little setup sheet info from TLR drivers being posted from different tracks. I know they are racing the truck. I don't know if it is a kit truck or 2.0 with updates. Maybe they will post more soon. It will take time to find what works best. Till then, my 2.0 will get a much needed rebuild with many 3.0 parts. It is possible the 3.0 will be best for indoor tracks and the 2.0 working best outdoors.

Overall, I'm impressed with the improvements they have made. It has a few hiccups like all new rigs, but its a short list. The truck is durable and handles well with out of the box setup. No more Losi slop!!!! I must confess though, I did expect it to be instantly better in handling than my fully loaded 2.0 for some reason. It might be better on a different track. I can say that hands down the 3.0 out of the box is way better than the 2.0 truck out of the box. It is made better. It doesn't need the expensive aluminum carriers, uprights, Tekno shafts or chassis stiffeners that I felt were required on my 2.0 to be competitive. From here it can only get better.

i have been running my 3.0 outdoors as well. i have the 1.0 and agree the 3.0 maybe best indoors. it was getting blown around some with wind too outdoors. thunder trail like you said it's not bad at all. my 1.0 is heaver and has a lot more hours of set up for outdoors so not an equal comparisons.
i did purchase the 3.0 with the idea of racing it indoors so getting it hooked up for outside will be a bonus.

thunder trail did you like motor better angled or straight?
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:29 PM   #499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Guys! This is the best 3.0 race footage available right now and it will not disappoint. Really shows how close the 2.0 and 3.0 trucks are and this race will keep you on the edge of your seat! I wont give up the finish, but the 3.0 is setting up front on the pole.

Enjoy!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82zLLUTwBCg

Very nice!!!
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:39 PM   #500
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Originally Posted by sykemike View Post
That's a awesome video dude. Is there not anybody running a forward battery setup with the 3 degree center diff position and esc in back behind the battery? Just wondering what diff fluids and shock oils? Thanks in advance.
775 diffs and kit oils in the shocks.
I have lipo forward. ESC back. I also moved Lipo to outside rail to balance chassis. Needed 74g of weight lipo side so I moved entire lipo over. Check your balance.

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Originally Posted by floyd2810 View Post
i have been running my 3.0 outdoors as well. i have the 1.0 and agree the 3.0 maybe best indoors. it was getting blown around some with wind too outdoors. thunder trail like you said it's not bad at all. my 1.0 is heaver and has a lot more hours of set up for outdoors so not an equal comparisons.
i did purchase the 3.0 with the idea of racing it indoors so getting it hooked up for outside will be a bonus.

thunder trail did you like motor better angled or straight?
I ran it both ways and went back to straight. Truck had awkward reaction when angled 3 degrees. It torqued chassis funny during throttle and brake while doing mid air corrections. Once I get handling sorted out I plan to try it again. Couple of people have told me to use angled indoors.
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:08 PM   #501
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
775 diffs and kit oils in the shocks.
I have lipo forward. ESC back. I also moved Lipo to outside rail to balance chassis. Needed 74g of weight lipo side so I moved entire lipo over. Check your balance.



I ran it both ways and went back to straight. Truck had awkward reaction when angled 3 degrees. It torqued chassis funny during throttle and brake while doing mid air corrections. Once I get handling sorted out I plan to try it again. Couple of people have told me to use angled indoors.
One of my friend's ran his 3.0 last weekend on a rougher outdoor and noticed that the truck didn't want to rotate as hard around the hairpin turns like my 2.0 did. I believe this is due to the new angle as well and suggested he try it straight to send more to the back.
He is running stock shock setup with new red rear springs and has the +4 perches all around.
Has the diff oil set 5-5-3 like the 2.0
Suggested that he move the pack to the outside like you said you did. I am going to make some custom battery blocks for this soon.
I also thought about making a custom servo mount to angle the front of the servo inward toward center possibly. Might have to run the servo back wards with a longer link to get proper clearances.
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:44 AM   #502
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One of my friend's ran his 3.0 last weekend on a rougher outdoor and noticed that the truck didn't want to rotate as hard around the hairpin turns like my 2.0 did. I believe this is due to the new angle as well and suggested he try it straight to send more to the back.
He is running stock shock setup with new red rear springs and has the +4 perches all around.
Has the diff oil set 5-5-3 like the 2.0
Suggested that he move the pack to the outside like you said you did. I am going to make some custom battery blocks for this soon.
I also thought about making a custom servo mount to angle the front of the servo inward toward center possibly. Might have to run the servo back wards with a longer link to get proper clearances.
That lack of snap in the turns is the opposite of what the -3 chassis should do. I think the -3 requires more wt up front to get that back. I'm testing that with lipo forward, but yet to try it all the way forward. Baby steps, don't want to loose any straight line stability. With no practice days at local track, race day doesn't allow enough time to make changes. Slow process.

If I had local track open few times a week I would have it dialed in by week 3. Travel soon to indoor track that will allow me to do just that over winter.
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Old 10-22-2016, 02:08 AM   #503
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Default Welp... Built my 3.0 this week :/

Ive been working 70 hours a week, but was able to squeeze in a couple hours of build time here & there. Anyway... I've been racing the Tekno 410.3 for the past 16 months or so. Love the kit, great SCT, but kinda have hit a plateau and can't seem to get any faster with it. So I scooped up a new Losi to give her a whirl.

I was super stoked, then let down huge. Out of all the bags in the kit...Only 2 bags were labeled properly. Most bags had the wrong parts in them and nothing made sense.

Step A-1, the very first step was wrong. The steering link said "7/8 long threaded stud, and my kit included a 5/8" stud.

Both my front shock stand offs snapped when I tightened them.

The front chassis brace doesn't line up with the holes.

The front steering top plate doesn't line up very well.

The stock motor mount is dumb. I had to get a Hot Racing ugrade.

They give you these shims of some sort, but dont tell you where they go.

Almost all of my diff screw heads stripped with brand new hex drivers. The manual says the diff screws are 2.6 mm. Well... I don't think 2.6mm is a screw size.

The rear A arms rub so bad, they needed dremeled quite abit to allow the rear arms to move freely.

I don't understand why it doesn't include clamping hexs.

The sway bars aren't even labeled, so i guess you have to guess what one you're using in the tuning kit.

I just don't get it. The rear diff is super weird, not sure what exactly they were thinking when they designed it.

I sure hope it performs better than it builds. This is my first Losi and I was expecting alot more from them being the powerhouse race company they are.

Im racing it Sunday, we'll see how it performs.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:29 PM   #504
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its your first TLR... i didn't have those issues, i just had a build error. i'm not sure it represents TLR well, but i just think you got a roughly packaged kit.

you are going to have to get used to the rear diff and shimming. most of us have done it over all the generations.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:52 PM   #505
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I sure hope it performs better than it builds. This is my first Losi and I was expecting alot more from them being the powerhouse race company they are.

Im racing it Sunday, we'll see how it performs.
I think you have some valid points. I have built a lot of these and didn't look at the bag markings, just looked in them for the parts I need to complete the next step. A new to Losi guy like yourself would see this entirely different than me. I think TLR should get feedback from a non experienced person building a kit for the first time. All the manufacturers should do that.

I don't think many of them offer good instructions in the manual on shimming diffs. Its a must do on this truck and it would be good to offer some instructions and a link to a video on how to do this properly. The newer ring and pinion gears in this truck will not last long if not shimmed properly. They have a lot more slack that previous gears did with no shims. They are worth the effort though. I have checked mine after a few runs and they are smoother running than any of the older style ring and pinion sets I have used.

Can you provide more info on the motor mount? This is a proven design, but something could have been wrong with yours. I have had a couple that were super tight fitting, but I rather deal with that than being loose.

Based on what I have seen, the big problem with the kits so far is quality control. Rear a arms binding, springs not meeting spec, missing spring cups and the soft shock stand offs like you had. Diff screws were a problem in the past and there might be a few of those lurking around. Some better instructions could help here. "Run all diff screws into the diff case before assembly to make good threads. A touch of lip balm or grease helps." That step has made a world of difference in building these diffs without screw problems. I do this on all new diffs.

The truck does have many upgraded parts. Fit and finish of the front suspension, carriers, hubs, steering bell crank and rod ends are best this truck has ever had. Same for updated bones/CVDs. Chassis stiffeners might be slightly off on a few kits, but once installed they are better because they don't seem to have any weakness.

There are some issues that's for sure. I'm still searching for a setup that equals or beats my decked out 2.0. Let us know how your race day goes.
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Old 10-22-2016, 02:00 PM   #506
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2.6mm is a size. I started to strip one of the diff heads. Then i noticed that the screws were metric. When i switched to metric driver. No more problems. I don't like the small hex sizes though. None of my little buggies have screws that small. I stripped the screws that it came with to mount the servo. So i switched to a bigger screw.

A arms do bind. But every car I've built had that.

I wish the stock motor mount was better. Same thing here. Even my little buggies have 2 screws holding the mesh adjustment. I know you aren't suppost to case jumps. But these trucks a succeptable to the motors moving after these type of hits. The king headz mount has larger hardware and can be tightened a little more. The only issuewith the king headz mount is with the new outdrive/dogbones. There isn't a reason to have the the 2 bearings anymore.

My biggest problem was one of my cvd axles was machined too large and would not allow the bearing to go over it. I turned it down a little and all is good now.

I'm not finished assembling my truck. But on my 2.0 with the shock conversion. I had the same 2 different spring cups that the 3.0 kit came with. And i didn't have any issues with ride height. So i guess i will address this when it is all built

I think one problem some people have. The instructions state that that the bag number will match the step in the instructions. And they don't. Mine were in order though. So i just worked until the bag was empty then opened the next.

At the end of the day. I enjoy building the kit. And tweeking these small things. Knowing that my attention to detail might just give me that little bit more of an advantage on the track.
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:10 PM   #507
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Im building the shocks now. These shocks are really nice. Although i hate C clips, the machine work seems great.

What's the deal with the 2 different spring retainer cups?? Is the one cup taller to raise the spring up higher to give you more adjustment threads to work with?

It doesn't say which cup goes where?

Is the stock oil okay to use?
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:43 PM   #508
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I would recommend using aftermarket Losi oil but the kit stuff is close enough if you don't have oil already in your kit.

Tall cups are for the front but some are using them all around.
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:36 PM   #509
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Im building the shocks now. These shocks are really nice. Although i hate C clips, the machine work seems great.

What's the deal with the 2 different spring retainer cups?? Is the one cup taller to raise the spring up higher to give you more adjustment threads to work with?

It doesn't say which cup goes where?

Is the stock oil okay to use?
The taller of the two are called +4mm perches, and what you suspect is exactly what they do. The kit calls for 4 of those +4 perches and Horizon will make that good if you call them and report that they weren't in the kit.
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:45 PM   #510
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Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
2.6mm is a size. I started to strip one of the diff heads. Then i noticed that the screws were metric. When i switched to metric driver. No more problems. I don't like the small hex sizes though. None of my little buggies have screws that small. I stripped the screws that it came with to mount the servo. So i switched to a bigger screw.

A arms do bind. But every car I've built had that.

I wish the stock motor mount was better. Same thing here. Even my little buggies have 2 screws holding the mesh adjustment. I know you aren't suppost to case jumps. But these trucks a succeptable to the motors moving after these type of hits. The king headz mount has larger hardware and can be tightened a little more. The only issuewith the king headz mount is with the new outdrive/dogbones. There isn't a reason to have the the 2 bearings anymore.

My biggest problem was one of my cvd axles was machined too large and would not allow the bearing to go over it. I turned it down a little and all is good now.

I'm not finished assembling my truck. But on my 2.0 with the shock conversion. I had the same 2 different spring cups that the 3.0 kit came with. And i didn't have any issues with ride height. So i guess i will address this when it is all built

I think one problem some people have. The instructions state that that the bag number will match the step in the instructions. And they don't. Mine were in order though. So i just worked until the bag was empty then opened the next.

At the end of the day. I enjoy building the kit. And tweeking these small things. Knowing that my attention to detail might just give me that little bit more of an advantage on the track.
Not everyone has had a ride height issue. Some however have due to overly soft springs not meeting their rate expected. For those that have this problem, everyone that has bought the same springs as a new separate pair have not had any more problems.
This was a kit thing like the off sized perches.

As for the A-arms binding, I am not sure what you're talking about, because my 2.0 didn't have that issue. This is because the 2.0 had 49mm pins in the rear and 48mm pins in the front. The 3.0 should have the same thing so that the arms aren't pinched when you tighten down the rear hing pin retainers to the bulkheads and chassis. M2C sells a spare set of 49mm pins, or you can just buy the 2.0 hinge pins since they come with both 48 and 49mm pins.

As for the diff screws, you can replace those with a harder 12/9 hardened screw set from protek and stripping them will be a thing of the past.
2.5x12mm high-strength screws 10psc
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