TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
#437
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Hmmm,
It wont have anything to do with tire brand.
Has it been the same brand wheel each time?
It is possible the axle threads run out before wheel gets tight. Take stub axle out. Put hex on and wheel brand you are having issue with. Tighten and see if wheel nut is actually tight on the rim or bottoms out on axle threads before it gets tight on wheel. Try same with a different axle nut and hex.
If you have calipers you can take all wheels off, install wheel nuts without wheel and then measure distance from hex face to wheel nut flange. Keep track of where the parts come from so you can figure out what part if any are different.
Could also be a bad hex that is not at the same stop point on axle. Swap hex from another wheel and measure distance from wheel nut flange to hex face.
Check thickness of wheel where hex and nut flange would touch it. Could be too thin from over tightening wheel nuts.
You will find it, but might take some serious effort on measuring parts and swapping them around.
It wont have anything to do with tire brand.
Has it been the same brand wheel each time?
It is possible the axle threads run out before wheel gets tight. Take stub axle out. Put hex on and wheel brand you are having issue with. Tighten and see if wheel nut is actually tight on the rim or bottoms out on axle threads before it gets tight on wheel. Try same with a different axle nut and hex.
If you have calipers you can take all wheels off, install wheel nuts without wheel and then measure distance from hex face to wheel nut flange. Keep track of where the parts come from so you can figure out what part if any are different.
Could also be a bad hex that is not at the same stop point on axle. Swap hex from another wheel and measure distance from wheel nut flange to hex face.
Check thickness of wheel where hex and nut flange would touch it. Could be too thin from over tightening wheel nuts.
You will find it, but might take some serious effort on measuring parts and swapping them around.
#438
Tech Initiate
underbody
hi all, has anyone fitted an underbody of any kind to the truck? would an 8 e body fit? or anything else? any help appreciated
#439
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html
#440
Tech Initiate
body
cheers for the advice, a mate of mine did try one ( not sure which one it is but i know its for an 8 e) but its too wide, need it snug to keep rain out more so than debris, british weather is pretty crappy over here! just wondering if anyone has actually bought and fitted a body that fits nicely and could let me know which model buggy it was for? are all the 8 e buggy models the same width chassis? sorry this is my first losi truck and i have limited understanding of the e buggys. have tried googling the dimensions/widths of various e buggies but with out much success!
#441
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
cheers for the advice, a mate of mine did try one ( not sure which one it is but i know its for an 8 e) but its too wide, need it snug to keep rain out more so than debris, british weather is pretty crappy over here! just wondering if anyone has actually bought and fitted a body that fits nicely and could let me know which model buggy it was for? are all the 8 e buggy models the same width chassis? sorry this is my first losi truck and i have limited understanding of the e buggys. have tried googling the dimensions/widths of various e buggies but with out much success!
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/access...ays-undertrays
#442
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
I use an Outerwears on mine. It was designed for the 1.0, but it will fit 2.0's with a little bit of modification.
Also, I think I read somewhere that a Tekno EB48 body will work as well. The best one to find would be a Losi 810 body, as they share the same chassis as the SCTE, but good luck finding that.
Also, I think I read somewhere that a Tekno EB48 body will work as well. The best one to find would be a Losi 810 body, as they share the same chassis as the SCTE, but good luck finding that.
#443
Tech Initiate
I use an Outerwears on mine. It was designed for the 1.0, but it will fit 2.0's with a little bit of modification.
Also, I think I read somewhere that a Tekno EB48 body will work as well. The best one to find would be a Losi 810 body, as they share the same chassis as the SCTE, but good luck finding that.
Also, I think I read somewhere that a Tekno EB48 body will work as well. The best one to find would be a Losi 810 body, as they share the same chassis as the SCTE, but good luck finding that.
#444
Tech Initiate
#446
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
To get the best fit, must trim off the mounts for the nerf bars. Then measure width to start your search for the body size that fits tight. No matter what body you get it will require a custom fit. Will need some mods to get best seal. see what I did here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12848262-post133.html
Other option is to bolt on lexan to the mounts for the nerf bars. Then cut them to fit the body of your choice. This makes choosing a body easy, but requires trim work to get a tight fit. Check out this video about the 2:50 mark to see how the kit did this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gH1bAjyVToI
Make sure you figure out a way to get some air flow. My Pro8 had to have a good motor fan and vents to run mains without meltdown. Still got near 200F in summer, 165F in winter with fan.
3.0 would still make a killer SL Buggy.
#447
Tech Initiate
cheers
many thanks for the help
#449
#450
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR1555
They come in 23, 24, 25 spline versions to match you servo.
I run ESC in the front of the chassis as I mostly run indoor clay tracks however truck works great on all the tracks I run on for the JBRL series that covers, indoor, outdoor, lower to VERY high bite.