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Old 09-30-2016, 11:30 AM   #391
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Originally Posted by rdeppen View Post
listen pinhead It was sort of tongue and cheek till you piped up. I simply said I was hoping to use the option part I already HAD from my 2.0 kit where it was a needed option. Christ I remember why I gave up on forums. dumbasses like you.
Your forgetting the part where you were telling Casper he was basically just sticking up for TLR because he is a "factory guy".

I'm the dumbass? Your the one that failed to realize what he was telling you was actually being honest and not go telling you to buy alum upgrades for the 3.0, he was doing the exact opposite of what you accused. Not like he has control of them changing C blocks. But I'm the dumbass...also says the guy that calls me a "pinhead" what is this 1988?

Leave the forum's buddy, no one's too concerned.
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Old 09-30-2016, 02:07 PM   #392
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Default Updated CVD bones

How do you know if you have the updated CVD bones? The New one has a flat spot on the diff cup end. Old one is rounded. They provide for sharper turning because the bone is smaller under the CVD ball end where it would rub the inside of the stub axle. Small change = improved steering.
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Old 09-30-2016, 02:21 PM   #393
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Originally Posted by JMURACN View Post
are you using the protek screw kit? when we get back from vacation i'm going to put this thing on a diet
I used the protek kit for the 2.0 pretty much worked for the entire kit except for 4 of the diff to chassis screws (2.0 used 1/4" iirc and the 3.0 uses 3/8")

same with the Ti turnbuckle kit
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:23 PM   #394
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Your forgetting the part where you were telling Casper he was basically just sticking up for TLR because he is a "factory guy".

I'm the dumbass? Your the one that failed to realize what he was telling you was actually being honest and not go telling you to buy alum upgrades for the 3.0, he was doing the exact opposite of what you accused. Not like he has control of them changing C blocks. But I'm the dumbass...also says the guy that calls me a "pinhead" what is this 1988?

Leave the forum's buddy, no one's too concerned.
Knock it off please. This entire conversation is not needed in this thread.

Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:41 PM   #395
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I used the protek kit for the 2.0 pretty much worked for the entire kit except for 4 of the diff to chassis screws (2.0 used 1/4" iirc and the 3.0 uses 3/8")

same with the Ti turnbuckle kit
He will need another pack of 4 - 40 by 5/8 button head screws for the body post that tie onto the shock Tower also the protek it also does not have the two lower screws to tie the rear gear box case I had to get those screws from Lunsford and I could only get them an inch and three quarters instead of an inch and seven eighths
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:47 PM   #396
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Also used a turnbuckle that goes between the Servo arm and Servo saver it is a Lunsford 3.5 millimeters by 24 millimeters I had to sand a millimeter off of each turnbuckle end
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:30 PM   #397
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They are alum crush spacers just like we use in the hubs of our 2wd cars and same as what MIP was doing. You are correct it is intended to increase the life of the pinion bearings.
Is there a part number for the anti crush spacers? If so, I'd like to put some on the new scbe. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:40 AM   #398
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Is there a part number for the anti crush spacers? If so, I'd like to put some on the new scbe. Thanks in advance.
See post 42 in this thread. TLR232053
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:47 AM   #399
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Default Bad springs on SCTE 3.0 shocks

Spring mystery solved. 3.0 kit springs were sagged out. I put the new Red springs on and immediately could see it was better. Collar at the bottom of threads, but ride height is at 27mm RTRace. Plan to use the +4 spring cups if needed to maintain ride Height.

I thought about this for a while and devised a crude way to compare springs using a digital scale. I compressed the springs to 45mm and took a reading in grams of spring pressure. See results below:

Compressed springs to 45mm
Kit Springs
#1 720g
#2 670g

Replacement springs
#1 820g
#2 830g

Just bad springs. Look forward to track day. Now I can make other setup adjustments.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:30 AM   #400
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
See post 42 in this thread. TLR232053
Does anyone make them for the outer axials?
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:04 AM   #401
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Spring mystery solved. 3.0 kit springs were sagged out. I put the new Red springs on and immediately could see it was better. Collar at the bottom of threads, but ride height is at 27mm RTRace. Plan to use the +4 spring cups if needed to maintain ride Height.

I thought about this for a while and devised a crude way to compare springs using a digital scale. I compressed the springs to 45mm and took a reading in grams of spring pressure. See results below:

Compressed springs to 45mm
Kit Springs
#1 720g
#2 670g

Replacement springs
#1 820g
#2 830g

Just bad springs. Look forward to track day. Now I can make other setup adjustments.
Wow I should try the same thing I guess. Sucks that the collar have to be so low. Can't get anymore ride height out of it. What are the +4 spring cups?
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:21 AM   #402
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I finished my kit on Wednesday of this week and ran a few practice laps with it last night. My kit has the same issue with the low ride height on both ends. I'm at the very bottom of the shock body threads and I'm getting only 25mm of ride height. No worries though, the stock rear red spring is too soft for indoor clay anyway, so I'm going to pick up a set of orange and silver springs for it. The stock red spring may be good for a looser outdoor track, though. Other than that, the kit set-up was really good on my local clay indoor track. It wanted to jump a little nose down at times, but I think that is also an issue with the rear of the truck being sprung too soft. The nice thing is that unlike my old Tekno SCT410.3, I can pull the nose back up with some extra throttle. This kit seems to be very responsive to throttle in the air, very controllable.
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:18 PM   #403
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Originally Posted by sykemike View Post
Does anyone make them for the outer axials?
No, but you should not need them for axle. I have made some for a different scenario. Only time I needed spacer for axle was using Tekno axles with aluminum carrier on rear. Tekno axle kit does not work well with aluminum gear box inserts or rear hubs. Don't need Tekno stuff on this truck now and don't need aluminum hubs or uprights either. both have been updated and so far proven strong.
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:26 PM   #404
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Originally Posted by Deton8er View Post
Wow I should try the same thing I guess. Sucks that the collar have to be so low. Can't get anymore ride height out of it. What are the +4 spring cups?
The kit comes with two of these taller +4 spring cups. They are 4mm taller. Use on front for more a arm clearance. Use on back for more preload.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:35 PM   #405
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
No, but you should not need them for axle. I have made some for a different scenario. Only time I needed spacer for axle was using Tekno axles with aluminum carrier on rear. Tekno axle kit does not work well with aluminum gear box inserts or rear hubs. Don't need Tekno stuff on this truck now and don't need aluminum hubs or uprights either. both have been updated and so far proven strong.
Thank you very much. I probably screwed up. I bought the scbe, and look on here for setups. Diffs, shocks and so on. I'm up grading this scbe with 2.0 chassis, carbon shock towers, all rear hubs and rear all Insets. With the twins universal shafts. Dog bone in center shafts. All front carriers and all spindles. Now I hear this news. Did I screw that bad? Lol
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