JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

my 2.0 had every single ball'n part for the good and the bad... it was mostly for good, but weight came into play "sometimes."

for my 3.0 i want to keep the weight way down... that leaves with titanium to replace steel and CF to replace overly thick plastic... which means i might be out of luck lol. I havent gone to the extreme of buying a spare chassis and hitting it with dimple dies yet

lyons238

iTrader: (15)

you're an idiot. he's basically telling you to save your money and stick with the plastic ones. there's nothing wrong with the plastic ones, they will perform well and be durable.

floyd2810

jmuracn, you think the 2.0 is heavy. i have the 1.0, with a lot of upgrades.
it's even heavier then the 2.0 haha. it's feels a lot like the new 3.0. it's just
heavier so it's more like slow motion compared to the 3.0

this truck doesn't need any thing, it comes with everything you need!!!
if you have a wild hair and feel the need to spend money get some shock springs.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Free way to reduce some weight is trim the rear bumper or even remove most of it. (A little less protection but enough) and take off the nerf bars.

JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

I'll probably do that last... after i dial in the truck and power band on this 4 pole 540 motor. on my 2.0 running the RX8 G2 and 4300HD, i had a brown out problem that i didn't figure out until many many crashes lol

r schowengerdt

I finally got my truck together and was able to get a weight on it.I have titanium screws turnbuckles and aluminum nuts. The truck weight is 2579 grams that is with All Electronics Plus Battery and tires no body

Casper

iTrader: (34)

That motor is a beast for sure.

PZP

If it doesn't come with the alloy rear diff bearing carriers, then you can't say that. Those are the first things you should replace on the SCTE. The plastics hold up for while, the alloy's hold up for good. Also unless the diff washers have been upgraded as well, you'll find a lot of us tend to run XRay washers since they seem to be hardened to the point of lasting a very very long time. The rear alloy hubs are also nice. Anything that carries a bearing is generally better if it's metal from my experience. Keeps things nice and true without flex.

JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

are you using the protek screw kit? when we get back from vacation i'm going to put this thing on a diet

r schowengerdt

Yes I was using the Protek screw kits, the upper and lower I don't think Protech makes a lower anymore though and a couple screws had to get from Lunsford

floyd2810

i just put them on my 1.0 1 month ago. i've run my 1.0 for the last 4 years
with the original plastic ones. never warped or got out of shape. only reason
i put them on is because someone gave them to me and thought i would try them.

floyd2810

i kinda like the heavy weight of my 1.0. it doesn't get pushed around.
esc 1st edition black rx8. i power it with a tenshock 1:10 4 pole sensor motor sc411-4600kv. all the power you could possibly need. been running this combo
the last 3 years.

check out the tenshock very powerful motor.

floyd2810

pzp the only thing i can think of is that every 6 month i switch out my diff
and cases and check the bearings i have a set of diff's and cases set-up for indoor and a set for out door. never had any issues. i understand
bearing are better secured in metal. i just have not had any issue.

probably just jinxed myself too.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Key to your success is maintenance. Most people don't maintain their rigs as often as they should. Only one race day on my 3.0 and she needs bearing maintenance at the wheels. Could be the type of grease. Lots of drag for sure. Light oil and clean often works for me.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

listen pinhead It was sort of tongue and cheek till you piped up. I simply said I was hoping to use the option part I already HAD from my 2.0 kit where it was a needed option. Christ I remember why I gave up on forums. dumbasses like you.