TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
#301
Tech Regular
#303
Tech Apprentice
Can't figure out how to post pics on here
#304
Tech Apprentice
I believe it Casper. The first time I ran the truck was in the first qualifier, after not racing for 12 years. My last truck was a XXXT. Needless to say, the truck took quite a beating until I got used to 4wd and brushless power.
#305
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
Rod End Question
This is a picture of the Losi 8 4MM rod ends, both variations sold under part number LOSA6046.
The ones marked "Old" are the Losi 8 1.0 vintage. The ones marked "New" are from the Losi 8 2.0 vintage. The old ones are tight on the 6.8MM balls. The new ones are loose on the 6.8MM balls and give lots of suspension slop.
I notice the new rod ends listed for the SCTE 3.0 are of the same pattern as the 8 2.0 rod ends with the extra material around the outside.
So question: Are the SCTE 3.0 ones loose like the 8 2.0 or tight like the 8 1.0?
The ones marked "Old" are the Losi 8 1.0 vintage. The ones marked "New" are from the Losi 8 2.0 vintage. The old ones are tight on the 6.8MM balls. The new ones are loose on the 6.8MM balls and give lots of suspension slop.
I notice the new rod ends listed for the SCTE 3.0 are of the same pattern as the 8 2.0 rod ends with the extra material around the outside.
So question: Are the SCTE 3.0 ones loose like the 8 2.0 or tight like the 8 1.0?
#306
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
The wheel hex spun out the inside of the wheel. I was leading the main and my wheel came off on the straight and passed me. Thought the nut came off at first but it was still on. It must have been a little loose, even though it has the same amount of threads showing as the other 3. Bummer man
Can't figure out how to post pics on here
Can't figure out how to post pics on here
I have seen entire center of wheel broken out on friends Tekno. May have over tighten the wheel nut on his and weakened the wheel. Hard to say. I do think its rare though. With serrated nuts you only need to snug them and check between runs. Do get the clamping wheel hex if you don't have them. They really are needed IMO.
#307
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
This is a picture of the Losi 8 4MM rod ends, both variations sold under part number LOSA6046.
The ones marked "Old" are the Losi 8 1.0 vintage. The ones marked "New" are from the Losi 8 2.0 vintage. The old ones are tight on the 6.8MM balls. The new ones are loose on the 6.8MM balls and give lots of suspension slop.
I notice the new rod ends listed for the SCTE 3.0 are of the same pattern as the 8 2.0 rod ends with the extra material around the outside.
So question: Are the SCTE 3.0 ones loose like the 8 2.0 or tight like the 8 1.0?
The ones marked "Old" are the Losi 8 1.0 vintage. The ones marked "New" are from the Losi 8 2.0 vintage. The old ones are tight on the 6.8MM balls. The new ones are loose on the 6.8MM balls and give lots of suspension slop.
I notice the new rod ends listed for the SCTE 3.0 are of the same pattern as the 8 2.0 rod ends with the extra material around the outside.
So question: Are the SCTE 3.0 ones loose like the 8 2.0 or tight like the 8 1.0?
#308
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
It is important to get good serrated lock nuts (not sure what comes with the kit but the ones you get separate are what I use.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336000
The kit ones are sometimes not the same cut serrations. If you use the ones I linked to above you should only need to tighten a couple "clicks". If you over tighten too much you will wear through and break the center out.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336000
The kit ones are sometimes not the same cut serrations. If you use the ones I linked to above you should only need to tighten a couple "clicks". If you over tighten too much you will wear through and break the center out.
#309
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
You may not have enough post yet to post pics. Its at the bottom of the advanced page for posting. Says manage attachments. Use reduced size files on camera settings is best.
I have seen entire center of wheel broken out on friends Tekno. May have over tighten the wheel nut on his and weakened the wheel. Hard to say. I do think its rare though. With serrated nuts you only need to snug them and check between runs. Do get the clamping wheel hex if you don't have them. They really are needed IMO.
I have seen entire center of wheel broken out on friends Tekno. May have over tighten the wheel nut on his and weakened the wheel. Hard to say. I do think its rare though. With serrated nuts you only need to snug them and check between runs. Do get the clamping wheel hex if you don't have them. They really are needed IMO.
+1 my 2.0 would runt he passenger rear wheel nut right off. after i went to serrated nuts, i learned i needed to pay very close attention to mounting... I burned up two wheels. it was all in just a little play, or a piece of dirt in there... the HP we use in these trucks will burn down a little plastic wheel.
#310
Tech Apprentice
It is important to get good serrated lock nuts (not sure what comes with the kit but the ones you get separate are what I use.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336000
The kit ones are sometimes not the same cut serrations. If you use the ones I linked to above you should only need to tighten a couple "clicks". If you over tighten too much you will wear through and break the center out.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336000
The kit ones are sometimes not the same cut serrations. If you use the ones I linked to above you should only need to tighten a couple "clicks". If you over tighten too much you will wear through and break the center out.
#313
Tech Apprentice
Oh ok thanks Frank. I was just going by the part number. I'll order a set
#314
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
+1 my 2.0 would runt he passenger rear wheel nut right off. after i went to serrated nuts, i learned i needed to pay very close attention to mounting... I burned up two wheels. it was all in just a little play, or a piece of dirt in there... the HP we use in these trucks will burn down a little plastic wheel.
#315
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
SCTE 3.0 pics
I was going to post these few days ago and forgot.
Overall Pic shows the Lipo mounting choice I started with. May change it a few times before it stays. Nice to have so many options.
The ESC shot shows how easy and clean short run wires can be. Plenty of ESC wire to reach receiver.
The motor pic shows how far it hangs out in the 3 degree position. Takes a while to get used to seeing this if you have raced this platform for any amount of time.
Shocks have balloon covers/boots and they took me a long time to mount. Don't fit tight at the bottom, but should keep a lot of dirt off the shafts. My local outdoor track is not clean, so I use boots to make my shock seals and shafts last longer. Would be nice to have a lower shock cap with a grove or lip to facilitate shock boots.
I will say that these 22 shocks feel too small for the truck when you build them, but they are not. That feeling is amplified for me because I just built some 2.0 shocks. Big difference in wt and action. They have very little stiction and feel great on the bench drop. Overall a superior design to the 2.0 shocks and much lighter. Looks good.
Last pic shows the reshaped front a arm. This and the rod end shape should stop witness marks on wheels, a arms and the ball link. Truck turns to lock with no hint of binding under power. Might be updates to the CVD? Things have improved across the board in many ways.
My testing begins and I look forward to finding the sweet spot for my driving and track.
Overall Pic shows the Lipo mounting choice I started with. May change it a few times before it stays. Nice to have so many options.
The ESC shot shows how easy and clean short run wires can be. Plenty of ESC wire to reach receiver.
The motor pic shows how far it hangs out in the 3 degree position. Takes a while to get used to seeing this if you have raced this platform for any amount of time.
Shocks have balloon covers/boots and they took me a long time to mount. Don't fit tight at the bottom, but should keep a lot of dirt off the shafts. My local outdoor track is not clean, so I use boots to make my shock seals and shafts last longer. Would be nice to have a lower shock cap with a grove or lip to facilitate shock boots.
I will say that these 22 shocks feel too small for the truck when you build them, but they are not. That feeling is amplified for me because I just built some 2.0 shocks. Big difference in wt and action. They have very little stiction and feel great on the bench drop. Overall a superior design to the 2.0 shocks and much lighter. Looks good.
Last pic shows the reshaped front a arm. This and the rod end shape should stop witness marks on wheels, a arms and the ball link. Truck turns to lock with no hint of binding under power. Might be updates to the CVD? Things have improved across the board in many ways.
My testing begins and I look forward to finding the sweet spot for my driving and track.