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Old 09-19-2016, 06:25 PM   #301
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They've been shipping for over a week...
In the UK Frank, just waiting for Dealers to get them.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:31 PM   #302
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Yeah he ran a good race. I had to come from dead last so happy to be on the podium.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:42 PM   #303
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i'm a little shocked too, maybe because it's the 3rd version.

what part broke in the main??
The wheel hex spun out the inside of the wheel. I was leading the main and my wheel came off on the straight and passed me. Thought the nut came off at first but it was still on. It must have been a little loose, even though it has the same amount of threads showing as the other 3. Bummer man

Can't figure out how to post pics on here
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:52 PM   #304
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What did you break? that is pretty rare with this truck

SCTE 3.0 swept the podium at Round #7 of the JBRL at Motor Head raceway this weekend.
I believe it Casper. The first time I ran the truck was in the first qualifier, after not racing for 12 years. My last truck was a XXXT. Needless to say, the truck took quite a beating until I got used to 4wd and brushless power.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:08 AM   #305
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Default Rod End Question

This is a picture of the Losi 8 4MM rod ends, both variations sold under part number LOSA6046.



The ones marked "Old" are the Losi 8 1.0 vintage. The ones marked "New" are from the Losi 8 2.0 vintage. The old ones are tight on the 6.8MM balls. The new ones are loose on the 6.8MM balls and give lots of suspension slop.

I notice the new rod ends listed for the SCTE 3.0 are of the same pattern as the 8 2.0 rod ends with the extra material around the outside.

So question: Are the SCTE 3.0 ones loose like the 8 2.0 or tight like the 8 1.0?
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:17 AM   #306
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The wheel hex spun out the inside of the wheel. I was leading the main and my wheel came off on the straight and passed me. Thought the nut came off at first but it was still on. It must have been a little loose, even though it has the same amount of threads showing as the other 3. Bummer man

Can't figure out how to post pics on here
You may not have enough post yet to post pics. Its at the bottom of the advanced page for posting. Says manage attachments. Use reduced size files on camera settings is best.

I have seen entire center of wheel broken out on friends Tekno. May have over tighten the wheel nut on his and weakened the wheel. Hard to say. I do think its rare though. With serrated nuts you only need to snug them and check between runs. Do get the clamping wheel hex if you don't have them. They really are needed IMO.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:21 AM   #307
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
This is a picture of the Losi 8 4MM rod ends, both variations sold under part number LOSA6046.



The ones marked "Old" are the Losi 8 1.0 vintage. The ones marked "New" are from the Losi 8 2.0 vintage. The old ones are tight on the 6.8MM balls. The new ones are loose on the 6.8MM balls and give lots of suspension slop.

I notice the new rod ends listed for the SCTE 3.0 are of the same pattern as the 8 2.0 rod ends with the extra material around the outside.

So question: Are the SCTE 3.0 ones loose like the 8 2.0 or tight like the 8 1.0?
3.0 rod ends are just right. Best fit right off the bat. They may slop out after a few races, but I'm impressed with the initial fit.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:25 AM   #308
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It is important to get good serrated lock nuts (not sure what comes with the kit but the ones you get separate are what I use.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336000

The kit ones are sometimes not the same cut serrations. If you use the ones I linked to above you should only need to tighten a couple "clicks". If you over tighten too much you will wear through and break the center out.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:57 AM   #309
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You may not have enough post yet to post pics. Its at the bottom of the advanced page for posting. Says manage attachments. Use reduced size files on camera settings is best.

I have seen entire center of wheel broken out on friends Tekno. May have over tighten the wheel nut on his and weakened the wheel. Hard to say. I do think its rare though. With serrated nuts you only need to snug them and check between runs. Do get the clamping wheel hex if you don't have them. They really are needed IMO.

+1 my 2.0 would runt he passenger rear wheel nut right off. after i went to serrated nuts, i learned i needed to pay very close attention to mounting... I burned up two wheels. it was all in just a little play, or a piece of dirt in there... the HP we use in these trucks will burn down a little plastic wheel.
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:15 AM   #310
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
It is important to get good serrated lock nuts (not sure what comes with the kit but the ones you get separate are what I use.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336000

The kit ones are sometimes not the same cut serrations. If you use the ones I linked to above you should only need to tighten a couple "clicks". If you over tighten too much you will wear through and break the center out.
Thanks Casper, but yea those are the ones that came with the kit
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:23 AM   #311
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I know on my 22 3.0 they were not serrated the same. Again not sure what came in the kit.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:50 AM   #312
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Thanks Casper, but yea those are the ones that came with the kit
The ones that are sold in the bag are different than what comes in the kit, and they grab a little better. They aren't made in the same place as the kit, which is why they aren't in the kit already.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:31 AM   #313
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The ones that are sold in the bag are different than what comes in the kit, and they grab a little better. They aren't made in the same place as the kit, which is why they aren't in the kit already.
Oh ok thanks Frank. I was just going by the part number. I'll order a set
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:48 PM   #314
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Originally Posted by JMURACN View Post
+1 my 2.0 would runt he passenger rear wheel nut right off. after i went to serrated nuts, i learned i needed to pay very close attention to mounting... I burned up two wheels. it was all in just a little play, or a piece of dirt in there... the HP we use in these trucks will burn down a little plastic wheel.
I use DE wheels and 17MM hexes. Never had an issue with these.
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:28 AM   #315
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Default SCTE 3.0 pics

I was going to post these few days ago and forgot.

Overall Pic shows the Lipo mounting choice I started with. May change it a few times before it stays. Nice to have so many options.

The ESC shot shows how easy and clean short run wires can be. Plenty of ESC wire to reach receiver.

The motor pic shows how far it hangs out in the 3 degree position. Takes a while to get used to seeing this if you have raced this platform for any amount of time.

Shocks have balloon covers/boots and they took me a long time to mount. Don't fit tight at the bottom, but should keep a lot of dirt off the shafts. My local outdoor track is not clean, so I use boots to make my shock seals and shafts last longer. Would be nice to have a lower shock cap with a grove or lip to facilitate shock boots.

I will say that these 22 shocks feel too small for the truck when you build them, but they are not. That feeling is amplified for me because I just built some 2.0 shocks. Big difference in wt and action. They have very little stiction and feel great on the bench drop. Overall a superior design to the 2.0 shocks and much lighter. Looks good.

Last pic shows the reshaped front a arm. This and the rod end shape should stop witness marks on wheels, a arms and the ball link. Truck turns to lock with no hint of binding under power. Might be updates to the CVD? Things have improved across the board in many ways.

My testing begins and I look forward to finding the sweet spot for my driving and track.
Attached Thumbnails
TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-p9210037.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-p9210040.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-p9210042.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-p9210048.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-p9210049.jpg  

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