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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RZ6
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Shameless Plug Kyosho RZ-6, the 2015 IFMAR World’s Top Qualifying Car Model.
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Find out how Jason Dias lost some weight on his RZ6. Click here.
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Editable setup sheets.
Sheet 1
Sheet 2
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Shock building, alternative method.

Fill the oil up to the first thread.
Extend the shock shaft so the eyelet bottomed out on the shock bottom.
Place the piston into the shock body but let gravity pull it down into the body.
Once the shock bottom reaches the shock body help align it into the body so that the treads line up.
Turn the shock bottom so that it starts to thread into the body.
Wait for 1 second to give the excess oil time to escape.
Continue to turn, wait, turn, wait process until the shock bottom is tight.
Pump the shock shaft a few times and then bottom out the eyelet to the bottom of the shock and release.
Hopefully you should not have any rebound or maybe just a little bit.
If you have more than you like, loosen the shock bottom, push the shock shaft down, wait for a little bit and then re-tighten the shock bottom.
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Jared Tebo shock building video.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

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2-15 IFMAR Worlds, A-main #1. Jared Tebo TQ using the RZ6.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

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Old 06-13-2016, 03:39 PM   #16
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Thanks for posting your setup Kraig, I am wondering if the change in the front comes from the RZ6 directions showing the hingepin block on top of the chassis instead of under...
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:10 PM   #17
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Thanks for posting your setup Kraig, I am wondering if the change in the front comes from the RZ6 directions showing the hingepin block on top of the chassis instead of under...
No way. It follows the other gen 6 cars. Step 1 is just unclear.
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:48 AM   #18
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I had 5k in my diff and that didn't work out so well. I will get some 2k and give it a try in the future.

I moved the shocks, because it was easier to do at the track. Maybe my next step will be to move the speed control behind the motor like you suggested but I need to get the front to feel like I want it to feel.
I'm also running the brass front hinge pin part. I think I added 10-15 grams of lead just behind the battery and under the driveshaft. Before I moved the speedo and added the weight, the car was undrivable.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
Thanks for posting your setup Kraig, I am wondering if the change in the front comes from the RZ6 directions showing the hingepin block on top of the chassis instead of under...
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No way. It follows the other gen 6 cars. Step 1 is just unclear.
I have mine setup the same way as the RB6. I didn't think there was any other option.

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I'm also running the brass front hinge pin part. I think I added 10-15 grams of lead just behind the battery and under the driveshaft. Before I moved the speedo and added the weight, the car was undrivable.
Can you be more specific about being undriveable? Would it not turn, was it loose on/off power?

I am headed back to the track tonight to try my changes. If needed, I will swap entire front ends between my car and the kids RB6 and see if that makes a difference. It shouldn't take to long to do that.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:39 PM   #20
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Can you be more specific about being undriveable? Would it not turn, was it loose on/off power?
Like a skateboard on ice.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:05 PM   #21
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Like a skateboard on ice.
Were you running with a lightweight battery?
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:48 PM   #22
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No way. It follows the other gen 6 cars. Step 1 is just unclear.
Thanks for clearing that up, it looked like they wanted the hingepin over but the shaded image shows it the right way. Thanks for clearing that up.

Now I have everything I need to get the build started. This will be a fun one.
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TEKNO - SCT-410 ~ SCT-410.3
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Old 06-15-2016, 01:17 AM   #23
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Were you running with a lightweight battery?
Nope, just a regular shorty pack. I do have the lightweight chassis however. It's the only chassis I have. At least I get to place weight where I want it.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:46 AM   #24
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Nope, just a regular shorty pack. I do have the lightweight chassis however. It's the only chassis I have. At least I get to place weight where I want it.
Lightweight chassis on the RB6 or the RZ6? I was talking about the RZ6 so maybe I got messed up somewhere. I will say this though, we added weight to my son's car and he has better car control.

I made a few changes to the radio and now it appears to be reacting the same way as the RB6, front end wise. I didn't change the car at all but instead added more gear and the lap times kept on coming down. I think there is still more to be had but the motor temperature started going up. So next step is to install a fan.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:16 AM   #25
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Lightweight chassis on the RB6 or the RZ6?.
No, it was late and I wasn't thinking clearly. RZ6, not lightweight chassis. My RB had the light one.
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:41 AM   #26
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Default Kyosho Ultima RZ6

Hi
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Last edited by Kraig; 06-17-2016 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:05 AM   #27
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Kraig I was impressed by your RZ6 on dirt. Think it would do as well in mod class?
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:30 AM   #28
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Thanks!

I will be putting a mod motor in it when they change the layout in a few weeks. Then I should be able to answer that question.

There are so many things that I want to try. All of these things should make it better and be able to handle a mod motor. The only thing that might keep it back is my talent.
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:27 PM   #29
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My plan to set this one up for Mod with an 8.5-10.5 and a gear diff with 2K fluid and see how it goes from there. My home track is low to medium traction dirt. Once it is ready for electronics it will be on and off the 4-way scale until I am happy. The variables are going to be where the ESC ends up and which to use of the 3 battery types I have that fit. This is going to be fun, I love tuning time.

What battery are you using? Shorty, slim shorty, super shorty...

Is everyone running the ESC behind the motor? It makes sense with all that chassis space out back.
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:23 PM   #30
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Default RZ6 tranny noise

Hello there folks,

My friend just purchased a RZ6 kit and built it. We maidened it yesterday at a bumpy clay track (unswept). Using Hot Bodies Pink Beams tires.

Our views were that the car is super well balanced (left/right) with the esc placed in front of the spur and using a regular shorty lip battery.

The RZ6 was fun to drive as it handles really well on-power, but had understeer off-power...

All in all, a very interesting conversion for the RB6, that seems to work really well.

What is a little discombobulating, is the amount of noise coming from the buggy as it's driven, and the amount of heat emanating from the chassis (chassis feels like a GP buggy chassis!). Are these normal? (8.5t motor used, ran the buggy for about 8 minutes, no fan inside the buggy)

Personally, my RB6 is handling quite well (I felt it could be better), so am unsure if I might purchase this kit, or go with a 3 gear gearbox (prolly less noise)

If anyone has any suggestions on lowering the noise, do let me know. (I have a ZX5FS, and it's never this noisy)
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