1LikesSworkz S35-2E 1/8 eBuggy
11-10-2016, 08:18 AM
#106
I'd be curious if the desc10 a-arms and cvds would transfer onto the buggy at all. You could make an SCT version 
When you get it JR Slash can you confirm is the Durango springs fit too?
I agree on what I saw up close was the quality that appears to be there. And how it drove was simply WOW.
When you get it JR Slash can you confirm is the Durango springs fit too?
I agree on what I saw up close was the quality that appears to be there. And how it drove was simply WOW.
11-20-2016, 09:13 AM
#107
My latest project. Needed a big brother for the buggy! ��
12-10-2016, 06:14 PM
#109
Update on my S35-2e findings.
For the last few races of the outdoor season i drove the buggy with the setup that Mxr33 posted, and the car felt really good, except the rear droop he used (115mm) wasn't enough for the track conditions / big jumps, so I went to 120mm and that seemed good for medium to low grip tracks.
So far I've only had one issue with the buggy, and that was in the Main at the Ryan Lutz Hometown Shootout (of course at a big race...). I got tangled up with another driver after a big triple and was facing backwards when someone way overjumped the triple and lawn darted my car right on the rear shock tower...when I went to pull away it was clear there was something wrong. After the race I found that the huge impact at the rear tower must have flexed the chassis enough to pop the short rear center dogbone out. as far as I can tell the chassis brace isn't cracked and nothing else is wrong with the buggy. It was a very weird situation, and the car that landed on mine was coming down from a 3/4 throttle 30ft triple jump, so I'll chalk it up to a fluke.
After some time off of racing, I'm a couple races into the indoor season over here in Ohio. Still using Mxr33's slightly modified setup, except I went to the next stiffer swaybar in the front due to a bit higher traction. and after the 2nd race weekend I felt the car was good but could get a bit squirrelly on braking from a fast straight so for this week I went up to 10/10/5 diff fluids (up from the kit 7/7/3) and found that to stabilize the car quite a bit and it felt really good. Our local indoor track is 70/30 mix of clay/dirt so it's mid to low grip depending on the water situation, definitely not like a full clay track, so usually a outdoor type setup works pretty good.
Still really happy with this car, and I've had a lot of curious onlookers checking it out...One of the local fast guys said "it kind of looks like a Mugen, but nicer". I got a good laugh out of that.
Also, I should mention that when I changed the diff oils, there hadn't been any leakage from the diffs. I think the diff gaskets are really good...they feel a lot softer than your typical paper type...almost like there's some rubber infused lol. Whatever the material is, it's working very well.
For the last few races of the outdoor season i drove the buggy with the setup that Mxr33 posted, and the car felt really good, except the rear droop he used (115mm) wasn't enough for the track conditions / big jumps, so I went to 120mm and that seemed good for medium to low grip tracks.
So far I've only had one issue with the buggy, and that was in the Main at the Ryan Lutz Hometown Shootout (of course at a big race...). I got tangled up with another driver after a big triple and was facing backwards when someone way overjumped the triple and lawn darted my car right on the rear shock tower...when I went to pull away it was clear there was something wrong. After the race I found that the huge impact at the rear tower must have flexed the chassis enough to pop the short rear center dogbone out. as far as I can tell the chassis brace isn't cracked and nothing else is wrong with the buggy. It was a very weird situation, and the car that landed on mine was coming down from a 3/4 throttle 30ft triple jump, so I'll chalk it up to a fluke.
After some time off of racing, I'm a couple races into the indoor season over here in Ohio. Still using Mxr33's slightly modified setup, except I went to the next stiffer swaybar in the front due to a bit higher traction. and after the 2nd race weekend I felt the car was good but could get a bit squirrelly on braking from a fast straight so for this week I went up to 10/10/5 diff fluids (up from the kit 7/7/3) and found that to stabilize the car quite a bit and it felt really good. Our local indoor track is 70/30 mix of clay/dirt so it's mid to low grip depending on the water situation, definitely not like a full clay track, so usually a outdoor type setup works pretty good.
Still really happy with this car, and I've had a lot of curious onlookers checking it out...One of the local fast guys said "it kind of looks like a Mugen, but nicer". I got a good laugh out of that.
Also, I should mention that when I changed the diff oils, there hadn't been any leakage from the diffs. I think the diff gaskets are really good...they feel a lot softer than your typical paper type...almost like there's some rubber infused lol. Whatever the material is, it's working very well.
Last edited by MrBones22; 12-17-2016 at 06:48 PM.
12-11-2016, 04:42 PM
#111
Tech Apprentice
Set up
MrBones id be interested in the tweeks you made. We are now in our in door series, once a month at hobby plex in Omaha. I struggled at round one, it is a clay base track that develops a black groove. Car felt good in practice but by mains was really slick. I knew there was grip but couldn't find it. I used 8x1.3 pistons, pink springs(stock for nitro) 45f 40r ae oil, went up to 10k front 10k center 5k rear. This helped especially with tire wear, car was not as bouncy on track. At round two I went stiffer on sway bars I believe silver are 2.2 f, 2.4 r. I used the black ones out of the 3 piece kit 2.4f 2.6 rear? I'll have to double check the numbers. Going stiffer really helped the car in corners. One thing I really like about this car, it responds to changes and you can feel it. I made a couple mistakes in the B main, nerves got the better of me. Really happy with how the car drove and the difference in performance from round 1 to 2 with a few set up changes.
12-11-2016, 08:29 PM
#112
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Anyone happen to know the pin-to-pin length of the long front center shaft? Thanks in advance.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-...330699/p511204
https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-...330699/p511204
12-12-2016, 05:40 PM
#113
About 181mm. I say about because my caliper doesn't go that far. 7-1/8 to 7-3/16" on my bench ruler.
12-16-2016, 06:37 AM
#114
Looking like they are releasing aluminum chassis braces finally. I have managed to break two plastic front ones. One had reason the other was a bit odd. Either way good to see the options.
12-17-2016, 07:07 AM
#116
Full alloy replacement.
The wear is good. Would rate it as good as the competition. Don't think there is anything that's out of the ordinary of the better wearing kits out. Better than the last high dollar stuff I had....
The wear is good. Would rate it as good as the competition. Don't think there is anything that's out of the ordinary of the better wearing kits out. Better than the last high dollar stuff I had....
12-17-2016, 06:44 PM
#117
Mxr33, for outdoors all I did was change the rear droop (went to 120mm from 155mm).
Then going indoors I went to 10/10/5 diff oil, up to the black front swaybar with 2 dots/squares on it (I think it's 2.2mm)...stayed with the silver rear which I think is 2.6mm. It was pushing a bit on power in a long sweeper turn, so I took a little front droop out to put it at 100mm, kept the rear at 120mm. I currently have 2 degrees camber front and rear. Everything else is the same as the setup you posted.
Still on the 400cst shock oil...I was thinking about going a little heavier at the end of summer, because it was feeling a bit light on damping for the hot weather and big jumps, but now that the weather is cold it seems pretty good.
I might pick up one of the new alloy chassis braces for the rear, but I'll wait to see the price lol.
And so far for me, wear has been really good. I don't have crazy time on it yet, but no need to refresh anything so far.
Then going indoors I went to 10/10/5 diff oil, up to the black front swaybar with 2 dots/squares on it (I think it's 2.2mm)...stayed with the silver rear which I think is 2.6mm. It was pushing a bit on power in a long sweeper turn, so I took a little front droop out to put it at 100mm, kept the rear at 120mm. I currently have 2 degrees camber front and rear. Everything else is the same as the setup you posted.
Still on the 400cst shock oil...I was thinking about going a little heavier at the end of summer, because it was feeling a bit light on damping for the hot weather and big jumps, but now that the weather is cold it seems pretty good.
I might pick up one of the new alloy chassis braces for the rear, but I'll wait to see the price lol.
And so far for me, wear has been really good. I don't have crazy time on it yet, but no need to refresh anything so far.
01-10-2017, 03:16 AM
#118
Tech Adept
I think that I will change to Sworkz from Durango. Really liked how DEX8 behaves but I think that Sworkz has more potential especially if there comes .3 electric version with same upgrades that .3 Nitro has.
01-16-2017, 02:32 PM
#119
not sure what is going on with Sworkz at Amain but this is one sweet deal:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-...910024/p511097
$404.99 and I think at least the amain discounts apply which could be another $25 off.
hopefully its not really being cleared out.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-...910024/p511097
$404.99 and I think at least the amain discounts apply which could be another $25 off.
hopefully its not really being cleared out.
01-16-2017, 03:01 PM
#120
Guessing the latest revisions will be going on an updated version. The nitro just dropped with a fair amount of updates.