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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-11-2016, 08:32 AM   #1
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Default TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

Hey Guys,

Sorry it took so long to add info to the "1st post". The 22-4 2.0 has been the result of a lot of work by our team here at TLR, and I think you guys are really going to dig the car.

Web Page:
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodId=TLR03007

Product Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYYcc11938I

Frank Root's Live Q&A (from morning of announcement):
I don't think I can actually grab a link, so, then find the TLR's Frank Root 22-4 2.0 video.

Images:









Setup Sheets:
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...007#prodSetups


Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!
Attached Thumbnails
TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!-13221711_916935688453275_6047779020385000051_n.jpg  
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Last edited by Frank Root; 06-09-2016 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:36 AM   #2
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nice i just got and 1 gen 22 4 that still new do i need to sell it and buy this new car lol
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:38 AM   #3
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Cool just wish my local track ran those. I'll be lucky to race my Ebuggy this year.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:16 AM   #4
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Frank with the quick draw this time around. Well played sir getting the first thread up.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:38 AM   #5
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I have the Gen 1 car also what are the changes made to this car or do I have to wait till tomorrow
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by chevydc44 View Post
I have the Gen 1 car also what are the changes made to this car or do I have to wait till tomorrow
You have to wait until tomorrow.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:43 AM   #7
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You have to wait until tomorrow.
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Old 05-11-2016, 01:17 PM   #8
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Frank, now it's almost out - Was the team running gear diffs in worlds on carpet?
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:08 PM   #9
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Stupid question:

Is the car being offered for sale tomorrow or is it just the announcement/details?
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:09 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy View Post
Stupid question:

Is the car being offered for sale tomorrow or is it just the announcement/details?
Announcement / Details. I'm sure availability date will also be released tomorrow.
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janisdaubergs View Post
Frank, now it's almost out - Was the team running gear diffs in worlds on carpet?
You have to wait until tomorrow.
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:58 PM   #12
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Feank, is this OCRC Army tested and approved?
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:00 PM   #13
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How do I order if no part numbers?
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:16 PM   #14
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I Just 22-4 at 3:30 pm central time will there be a conversion kit
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by freebird View Post
How do I order if no part numbers?
You have to wait until tomorrow.
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