TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#181
the ball cups keep on popping off the studs when I try to adjust the turnbuckles, anyone else have this problem?
#183
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
Driveshaft Update - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.
Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.
I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.
I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
#189
I've actually had the same thing happen twice, both times were in very light crashes. Never had it happen with the 1.0 car at all, first order of business is to at least try replacing the plastic link that goes onto the A/B horn ball stud, maybe with the alternate ones suggested in this thread if the LHS happens to have some!
#194
The 22-4 was my favorite RC anything of all time, and I gotta say the new car has been even better! Couple updates since last time...
Won the maiden club race this last Friday, took 3rd behind Fabulous and another very fast guy on our monthly race on Saturday. I have only won a couple of club races before, so I can't ask for much more!
Continued to tune and practice this week, I attached a PDF of the setup I'm at for anyone that's interested (read my earlier post about impressions of stock setup). it uses only one part that isn't in the kit (red low frequency rear springs) and it uses the kit's diff config. Should be pretty easy to switch to for anyone that built the kit to stock specs.
The highlight of practice this week was throwing down a 15.9, in two months of our current layout the fastest a 13.5 4WD has hot-lapped in a race is 16.0... I screamed like a teenage girl when the scoring software said "fifteen point..." and I think Kraig was there to hear it
I also have one more build tip -- I have now seen 3 or 4 different experienced builders who had their outdrive set screws come loose on their first run, I have now had 2 of them come loose myself. There are two outcomes to that set screw coming loose -- either the outdrive stays on the shaft, but loose, and you have a 3WD car... or the outdrive flies off completely and you end up looking for it on the track. While it is only one set screw, you will have to take the diff out to get the outdrive properly reattached.
So, the lesson is to be liberal on the loctite on your outdrive set screws, and be sure to really tighten them firmly. I believe this is step B-1 in the build.
Won the maiden club race this last Friday, took 3rd behind Fabulous and another very fast guy on our monthly race on Saturday. I have only won a couple of club races before, so I can't ask for much more!
Continued to tune and practice this week, I attached a PDF of the setup I'm at for anyone that's interested (read my earlier post about impressions of stock setup). it uses only one part that isn't in the kit (red low frequency rear springs) and it uses the kit's diff config. Should be pretty easy to switch to for anyone that built the kit to stock specs.
The highlight of practice this week was throwing down a 15.9, in two months of our current layout the fastest a 13.5 4WD has hot-lapped in a race is 16.0... I screamed like a teenage girl when the scoring software said "fifteen point..." and I think Kraig was there to hear it
I also have one more build tip -- I have now seen 3 or 4 different experienced builders who had their outdrive set screws come loose on their first run, I have now had 2 of them come loose myself. There are two outcomes to that set screw coming loose -- either the outdrive stays on the shaft, but loose, and you have a 3WD car... or the outdrive flies off completely and you end up looking for it on the track. While it is only one set screw, you will have to take the diff out to get the outdrive properly reattached.
So, the lesson is to be liberal on the loctite on your outdrive set screws, and be sure to really tighten them firmly. I believe this is step B-1 in the build.
#195
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
The highlight of practice this week was throwing down a 15.9, in two months of our current layout the fastest a 13.5 4WD has hot-lapped in a race is 16.0... I screamed like a teenage girl when the scoring software said "fifteen point..." and I think Kraig was there to hear it
No pigs were harmed during the display of enthusiasm.