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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 02-02-2017, 12:10 PM   #1156
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Anyone know if b44.2 12mm front wheel are same offset & work on the 22-4 2.0 ?? I have a chance to grab some & a killer price but want to make sure first.. Thanks..
they are not the same.. bad things happen, don't use them
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:14 PM   #1157
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they are not the same.. bad things happen, don't use them
Thank you, Yeah, I researched for while & found out the offset are diff There went that awesome wheel package. lol
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:00 PM   #1158
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So i ran my buggy last night and finally found a setup that will not screw up ny driving when I run 2 classes. 2wd and 4wd. I love running and driving 2wd. So in order for the 4wd to handle a little bit like a 2wd? Run the soft spring clicker and tighten it 80% down.... done.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:08 PM   #1159
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So i ran my buggy last night and finally found a setup that will not screw up ny driving when I run 2 classes. 2wd and 4wd. I love running and driving 2wd. So in order for the 4wd to handle a little bit like a 2wd? Run the soft spring clicker and tighten it 80% down.... done.
I built my clicker with the firm spring, thinking of changing it, haven't got to run it yet though. Thanks for the input
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Old 02-05-2017, 06:22 PM   #1160
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Anyone try the Protek titanium turnbuckles? Are they holding up?

They are on sale at Amain for $20 for the set. Thinking of trying them out.
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Old 02-05-2017, 06:54 PM   #1161
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Just want to provide some info regarding running the rear shocks forward of the arms. I had been using the angled AE ball cups on the inside ball stud. There was almost no rub on the spring but during practice one day I broke one of the AE ballcups and didn't really want to pay for a whole package just for the 1 angled ball cup and have a bunch of useless straight ones. I installed the Exotek ball stud mount and used a 2mm washer instead of the included 1mm washer. I also switched to an 8mm ballstud. I now have no clearance issues with the shock spring using the D hole on the hub.

I believe the Exotek mount is a better option than the 22-4 1.0 mount which is also a horizontal mount because it has the lower row of holes which seems to put the height the same as the 2.0 vertical mount.

I should also note I'm running 3mm fwd, 3mm rear hub spacing and have the top shock mounts spaced out 2mm.

This combination allows me to run the shocks forward with my usual setup without compromise to avoid shock spring rubbing.

If anyone is interested the Exotek ball stud mounts are available on their website under the clearance section for $9.95, only a few bucks more than a bag of AE B6 ballcups.
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Old 02-05-2017, 07:20 PM   #1162
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Anyone try the Protek titanium turnbuckles? Are they holding up?

They are on sale at Amain for $20 for the set. Thinking of trying them out.
those are for the 1.0 car, i thought the 2.0 car has different length ones??
here is the list for the 1.0
1 - 4-40 x 3.675" Titanium Turnbuckle (Servo Steering)
4 - 3.5mm x 50mm Super Duty Titanium Turnbuckles (Steering & Rear Camber)
2 - 3.5mm x 55mm Super Duty Titanium Turnbuckles (Front Camber)
when i researched it I thought the 2.0 had 55mm as 4 and 50mm as 2 needed..
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:33 PM   #1163
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Originally Posted by AMessy View Post
Just want to provide some info regarding running the rear shocks forward of the arms. I had been using the angled AE ball cups on the inside ball stud. There was almost no rub on the spring but during practice one day I broke one of the AE ballcups and didn't really want to pay for a whole package just for the 1 angled ball cup and have a bunch of useless straight ones. I installed the Exotek ball stud mount and used a 2mm washer instead of the included 1mm washer. I also switched to an 8mm ballstud. I now have no clearance issues with the shock spring using the D hole on the hub.

I believe the Exotek mount is a better option than the 22-4 1.0 mount which is also a horizontal mount because it has the lower row of holes which seems to put the height the same as the 2.0 vertical mount.

I should also note I'm running 3mm fwd, 3mm rear hub spacing and have the top shock mounts spaced out 2mm.

This combination allows me to run the shocks forward with my usual setup without compromise to avoid shock spring rubbing.

If anyone is interested the Exotek ball stud mounts are available on their website under the clearance section for $9.95, only a few bucks more than a bag of AE B6 ballcups.
Part number? How about a picture of your rear shock location conversion?
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:53 PM   #1164
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For Casper, or anyone running 13.5t super stock motors in the 22-4 2.0 -- did you guys grind down the mudguard so you can get at the motor timing screws, or are you popping out the motor and adjusting it that way?
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:21 AM   #1165
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I built my clicker with the firm spring, thinking of changing it, haven't got to run it yet though. Thanks for the input
How did it go?

After a few packs. I observed that the clicker tends to stop "free wheeling" ....and locks up. Do not forget to put a thin coat of black grease on the gear/pulley of the clicker and it will not lock up and it will start "free wheeling" again.
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Old 02-06-2017, 04:31 AM   #1166
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i havent got it on the track yet just ran it around out front, but the silver spring is stiffer so it wont free-wheel like the black spring would even if its backed way off
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:59 AM   #1167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
For Casper, or anyone running 13.5t super stock motors in the 22-4 2.0 -- did you guys grind down the mudguard so you can get at the motor timing screws, or are you popping out the motor and adjusting it that way?
It depends on the motor you run, I can get at all of the screws on a Motiv without the mud guard getting in the way.

The no-grind option would be just loosening the motor mount so that you can spin the motor and get at the bottom timing screw. Just have to remember to set your gear mesh again afterwards!
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:44 AM   #1168
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For Casper, or anyone running 13.5t super stock motors in the 22-4 2.0 -- did you guys grind down the mudguard so you can get at the motor timing screws, or are you popping out the motor and adjusting it that way?
No I have not modified the side guards. That could affect the stiffness of the chassis and I would not recommend such a modification. It will depend on the design of the motor but I would take the motor clamp off to get access to adjust the timing as required.
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:21 AM   #1169
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For Casper, or anyone running 13.5t super stock motors in the 22-4 2.0 -- did you guys grind down the mudguard so you can get at the motor timing screws, or are you popping out the motor and adjusting it that way?
I take the mudguard off then adjust timing then screw the mudguard back on. I do it this way rather than unclamp the motor. Cause I don't like to remesh the gears all the time.
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:24 AM   #1170
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That works as well.
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