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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-30-2017, 08:57 AM   #1141
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That's a GREAT video, exactly what helped me out, he explained both springs & the red collar in the kit
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:41 PM   #1142
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But the 2.0 is not included with it? Does it need it on larger outdoor bumpy tracks?
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Old 01-30-2017, 01:01 PM   #1143
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But the 2.0 is not included with it? Does it need it on larger outdoor bumpy tracks?
Joe, My perception of the clicker is its more of a tuning option for corner speed & driving style, bumpy wouldn't have a factory as when you are on throttle all wheel are pulling forward. I loved it back with my old xx-4 because I like the front wheel to roll more so I could drive it essentially like my 2wh buggy through the turns. Most companies had either full time 4wd or you could get a 1 way front diff which would give complete free wheel spin of throttle, the Clicker is a Happy medium to dial it as you seem fit.
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:19 PM   #1144
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hey if anyone is looking for a new body for their 22-4 i have a brand new one ready
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:53 PM   #1145
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anyone know if the 22-4 rear skid plates fit the 2.0 ??
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...331013/p272973
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:13 PM   #1146
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It should
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:44 AM   #1147
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Anyone know if b44.2 12mm front wheel are same offset & work on the 22-4 2.0 ?? I have a chance to grab some & a killer price but want to make sure first.. Thanks..
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:46 AM   #1148
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I don't think they are the same offset but not 100% sure. I am not aware of a vendor (DE or JC) that claim compatibility.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:52 AM   #1149
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Casper, thanks, you are always pretty quick to respond, after more research it appears the offset is diff :-( damn, lost a killer bundle on new tires already mounted LOLOL..
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:57 PM   #1150
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Whats up guys,

Was wondering if there was instructions on installing the rear shocks up front on the 22-4 2.0. Couldn't find anything very clear. Thanks!
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Old 02-01-2017, 01:46 PM   #1151
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Not that I am aware of. Need to drill new swaybar mount holes. Space the shock mount out 1mm from the tower. Depending on the rear camber mount location on the hubs some use the offest AE ball cups and ball stud on the inside to clear the shock.
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Old 02-01-2017, 03:58 PM   #1152
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I am looking at a roller 22-4 2.0 and it has the rear shocks on the front of the arms. Is this normal? I see cars set up both ways.
Also plan to run the car with a 13.5. Any idea on gearing? thank you
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:24 PM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrslt1 View Post
I am looking at a roller 22-4 2.0 and it has the rear shocks on the front of the arms. Is this normal? I see cars set up both ways.
Also plan to run the car with a 13.5. Any idea on gearing? thank you
I run the stock spur 84 with 27 pinion, didn't want to open it up to change to a smaller spur as some others have done.
Runs fast (R1 motor of course ) but some claim even more gear is even faster.
Use a fan
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:20 PM   #1154
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
I run the stock spur 84 with 27 pinion, didn't want to open it up to change to a smaller spur as some others have done.
Runs fast (R1 motor of course ) but some claim even more gear is even faster.
Use a fan
Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to trying it out
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:37 PM   #1155
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I am geared about the same (28/75) Tekin Gen 3 no fan. doesn't need it with the tekin motor!
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