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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-02-2017, 11:28 AM   #1006
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I really liked the original shorty chassis with the motor cut out. Before I tear my 2.0 apart and try to put it together with my old chassis is there a know brick wall I'll run into?
You need to open up the front end to allow the 2.0 parts and gear diff to fit. Thats what i am running. Just some basic dremel work
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:19 PM   #1007
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You need to open up the front end to allow the 2.0 parts and gear diff to fit. Thats what i am running. Just some basic dremel work
Thanks, I was worried about holes being in the same place. Hogging out with the Dremel I can do.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:38 PM   #1008
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Can the 2.0 car run ball diff's? They work better on our track.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:57 PM   #1009
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Can the 2.0 car run ball diff's? They work better on our track.
Yes, spacers included in the manuals.
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:41 PM   #1010
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Thanks Frank, great to have someone like you on the forum, buy the way watched your 22 3.0 spec build videos while building my kit. What a tremendous help, thanks.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:26 PM   #1011
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Tyler ran his 2.0 for the first time and it's amazing!! We went with 35,000 front and 30,000 rear for diff oils. Put rear shocks on front of rear arms. And, ran AE yellow front springs. That was only change from kit setup. Gonna try 40,000 in rear diff next as Tyler said the rear could have used a tad more forward bite.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:36 PM   #1012
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Tyler ran his 2.0 for the first time and it's amazing!! We went with 35,000 front and 30,000 rear for diff oils. Put rear shocks on front of rear arms. And, ran AE yellow front springs. That was only change from kit setup. Gonna try 40,000 in rear diff next as Tyler said the rear could have used a tad more forward bite.
Try 3 deg rear toe.
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:34 AM   #1013
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Tyler ran his 2.0 for the first time and it's amazing!! We went with 35,000 front and 30,000 rear for diff oils. Put rear shocks on front of rear arms. And, ran AE yellow front springs. That was only change from kit setup. Gonna try 40,000 in rear diff next as Tyler said the rear could have used a tad more forward bite.
wait... how do u install the rear shocks in front of the rear arm ? ...when you have the rear sway bars there?

BTW which AE shock springs work on this buggy? Will the B6 shock springs rear and front work?
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:44 AM   #1014
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Try 3 deg rear toe.
He wanted to try that but we just haven't got any spare parts or tuning parts yet.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:45 AM   #1015
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He wanted to try that but we just haven't got any spare parts or tuning parts yet.
I'd definitely try it. I always felt my car was to free with the 2.5 block. 3 Degree block felt just right.
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:07 PM   #1016
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I'd definitely try it. I always felt my car was to free with the 2.5 block. 3 Degree block felt just right.
His old 22-4 1.0 we ran 2.0 rear toe a lot but ran ball diffs real tight. Gonna try the 3* block though. Got some tuning and learning to do to get cars where he likes them but that are dang close.
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:47 PM   #1017
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wait... how do u install the rear shocks in front of the rear arm ? ...when you have the rear sway bars there?

BTW which AE shock springs work on this buggy? Will the B6 shock springs rear and front work?
Have to flip the arms to the opposite side. Pretty easy mod, works great for indoor carpet.
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:01 PM   #1018
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Have to flip the arms to the opposite side. Pretty easy mod, works great for indoor carpet.
What he said. Our arms are updated so when you flip them the sway bar mount hole is already in the arm and you don't have to drill your own.
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:19 PM   #1019
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What he said. Our arms are updated so when you flip them the sway bar mount hole is already in the arm and you don't have to drill your own.
updated arms? where can you get that?
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:25 PM   #1020
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Frank mentioned they will do a running change to add the sway bar mount holes to the the arms for those that flip the shocks. Don't know when they will be available though.
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