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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-27-2016, 09:42 PM   #991
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Is anyone running there car on carpet? I'm currently running the HB but I'm a Losi guy at heart. My 1.0 was twitchy on carpet but I always had to run th diffs tight. Would love to try this ca out but don't want to downgrade. Does the 2.0 come with sway bars front and rear and what's the thickest sway bar?
Did you do the mods on your 1.0 ie. swapping rear shocks, raising front spindle, 12.5 blocks etc. After I did those mods, the care was completely different. You could drive hard in corners and plus it was stable.

I picked up a ride with HB Racing, but loved my 22-4 1.0. So I know where your coming from.
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Old 12-28-2016, 12:46 AM   #992
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Hi guys,
I have stripped the screw head on the middle screw of the rear toe plate on my car, and was wondering what is the best way to get it back out?
Thanks
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Old 12-28-2016, 01:23 AM   #993
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What shock package should I use for an outdoor low to medium bite dirt track (hot rod hobbies). I know the b6 2wd buggies are using 30wt ae white springs in front and 27.5wt ae green springs in the rear.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:40 AM   #994
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What shock package should I use for an outdoor low to medium bite dirt track (hot rod hobbies). I know the b6 2wd buggies are using 30wt ae white springs in front and 27.5wt ae green springs in the rear.
To be honest the standard 37.5 up front and 32.5 in the rear.

I have experimented a little with shock oil on low grip. Unless the track surface gets particularly bumpy the kit suspension package works well.
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:29 AM   #995
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To be honest the standard 37.5 up front and 32.5 in the rear.

I have experimented a little with shock oil on low grip. Unless the track surface gets particularly bumpy the kit suspension package works well.
what shock package do you use when it's bumpy?
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:55 AM   #996
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Hi guys,
I have stripped the screw head on the middle screw of the rear toe plate on my car, and was wondering what is the best way to get it back out?
Thanks
Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slot in the center of the screw. Make sure the slot is deep enough and long enough to get a flat blade screw driver in it. Then spin it out with the flat blade screwdriver. If your cutting disk is a larger diameter, you may nick up the chassis a bit which is o.k., its just cosmetic. If you're really particular like me, I reduced the circumference of the cutting disk by running it against the stone wheel on my bench grinder. The reduced circumference on the cutting disk ensured the slot cut in to only the screw and not the chassis.
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:43 PM   #997
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
What shock package should I use for an outdoor low to medium bite dirt track (hot rod hobbies). I know the b6 2wd buggies are using 30wt ae white springs in front and 27.5wt ae green springs in the rear.
Our track is similar to 'Rods but its colder up here. In stock trim the car will feel like it lacks off power steering. It requires a much different set up than SCVRC. That's why I have 2 of them. I'm running 30/30 in the diffs and 25 & silver/20 & white. I've also put in a 3 degree rear block and 10 degree caster blocks in the front. In all actuality I think the 10 degree blocks made the biggest difference.
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Last edited by QDRHRSE; 12-29-2016 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:04 AM   #998
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Originally Posted by offroader47 View Post
Hi guys,
I have stripped the screw head on the middle screw of the rear toe plate on my car, and was wondering what is the best way to get it back out?
Thanks
I use a set of mastercraft easy outs. They are small enough to fit in the stripped hex and this way you don't run The chance of cutting your chassis or whatever else. Like when you use a dremel.
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Old 12-30-2016, 03:46 PM   #999
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Our track is similar to 'Rods but its colder up here. In stock trim the car will feel like it lacks off power steering. It requires a much different set up than SCVRC. That's why I have 2 of them. I'm running 30/30 in the diffs and 25 & silver/20 & white. I've also put in a 3 degree rear block and 10 degree caster blocks in the front. In all actuality I think the 10 degree blocks made the biggest difference.
Sweet thanks.

25 and 20 wt for shocks? ... ill try it.... never used the thin wts.... is it because of the cold temp right now?
Btw... what was your setup for scvrc? I'm running just the stock setup.

Last edited by Phillip F; 12-30-2016 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:09 PM   #1000
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I ran the box setup at SCVRC. The car was ok. If I raced there every week I'd make a couple of changes. I'd try a heavier sway bar or front springs and maybe even 15 degree blocks. The traction there has improved. The out of the box car was a a little nervous feeling but race-able.
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Old 12-30-2016, 08:46 PM   #1001
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I ran the box setup at SCVRC. The car was ok. If I raced there every week I'd make a couple of changes. I'd try a heavier sway bar or front springs and maybe even 15 degree blocks. The traction there has improved. The out of the box car was a a little nervous feeling but race-able.
My car felt the ride height was too high and not hugging the track. It felt like the buggy was on stilts or something. When you land after a jump while your front tires are turning a little bit ... it feel unstable.
Did not race it yet with the current setup.... obviously.
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Old 12-30-2016, 10:35 PM   #1002
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Hey,
Just finished my 22-4 2.0 build and was wondering if there is supposed to be 2 circlips left?
Thanks
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Old 12-30-2016, 11:13 PM   #1003
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Hey,
Just finished my 22-4 2.0 build and was wondering if there is supposed to be 2 circlips left?
Thanks
I had 1 or 2, I think they are spare jackshaft clips.
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:00 AM   #1004
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Hey,
Just finished my 22-4 2.0 build and was wondering if there is supposed to be 2 circlips left?
Thanks
You end up with none left after you shoot two across the room trying to install them and they end up buried in the carpet

But seriously I had 2 spares when I built my 22-4 2.0 kit a few months ago.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:34 AM   #1005
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Default Old cut out chassis

I really liked the original shorty chassis with the motor cut out. Before I tear my 2.0 apart and try to put it together with my old chassis is there a know brick wall I'll run into?
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