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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-14-2016, 01:12 PM   #946
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There are inserts that allow you to change the middle and rear belts. A looser setting should allow the belts to rotate more efficiently. Too loose and they can skip which is bad.
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Old 12-14-2016, 04:18 PM   #947
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There are inserts that allow you to change the middle and rear belts. A looser setting should allow the belts to rotate more efficiently. Too loose and they can skip which is bad.
good for 13.5 ?
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:27 PM   #948
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I noticed on the "What's New" section of the TLR website they the are new aluminum belt pulleys released now. Any particular performance advantage with these, or is it more a matter of durability? It looks like one of the pulleys is the one that has the seldom used clicker assembly. Is this part now made as one complete unit omitting the clicker function? Does it eliminate the chance of melting or stripping the plastic assembly when running 5.5 or lower KV motors in high traction situations?
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:56 PM   #949
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
TLR231045 - Front Pivots

We have checked in a bunch today. We have more in the warehouse now than we've sold in the 6 months the car has shipped. We won't be out anytime soon....
I got an email today that Amain got them in stock........when I finally got around to placing an order tonight.....they were out is stock. They have more on the way!

Funny part is....I have not had a problem on my car.....I just want to freshen up my bumper and lower diff case!
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:59 PM   #950
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They claim less friction. I have them on order. Planning on going all alum pulleys. May start to play with looser belt settings then but right now I am running the kit settings and not having an issue with it all. May attack the car soon for a true 13.5 spec car
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Last edited by Casper; 12-14-2016 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:11 PM   #951
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Is 1701 minimum?
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:18 PM   #952
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Sorry not sure what I read earlier today. Min is 1613g. May take a little more work to get there.

Lots of low hanging fruit to start with. Edited the other post. Sorry for the misinformation.
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:00 PM   #953
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aw damn.
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:01 PM   #954
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
They claim less friction. I have them on order. Planning on going all alum pulleys. May start to play with looser belt settings then but right now I am running the kit settings and not having an issue with it all. May attack the car soon for a true 13.5 spec car
Would you go through belts faster than using stock plastic pulleys?
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:47 PM   #955
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme View Post
I noticed on the "What's New" section of the TLR website they the are new aluminum belt pulleys released now. Any particular performance advantage with these, or is it more a matter of durability? It looks like one of the pulleys is the one that has the seldom used clicker assembly. Is this part now made as one complete unit omitting the clicker function? Does it eliminate the chance of melting or stripping the plastic assembly when running 5.5 or lower KV motors in high traction situations?
The 22-4 2.0 already comes with a molded one piece version of that front pulley that doesn't include the clicker portion. But... with a properly set slipper, I never broke or melted a 1.0 clicker pulley setup either.

No performance difference, the pulley life will just be much longer.

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Originally Posted by travymoto11 View Post
I got an email today that Amain got them in stock........when I finally got around to placing an order tonight.....they were out is stock. They have more on the way!

Funny part is....I have not had a problem on my car.....I just want to freshen up my bumper and lower diff case!
A-Main might be out, but Horizon Hobby/TLR is not... for sure.
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:12 PM   #956
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Hey guys I just got a super nice used first edition 22-4. I know this is the 2.0 thread but the internal ratio of the pulleys and diffs is the same.

This car is set up with a 76t spur. Would there be any pinion combos that would get me in the ballpark with around a 7.5 in it or do I need to grab an 84t spur for it?
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:23 PM   #957
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Originally Posted by iDesign5 View Post
Hey guys I just got a super nice used first edition 22-4. I know this is the 2.0 thread but the internal ratio of the pulleys and diffs is the same.

This car is set up with a 76t spur. Would there be any pinion combos that would get me in the ballpark with around a 7.5 in it or do I need to grab an 84t spur for it?
You'll need the 84T spur to get to the correct ratio.
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:45 PM   #958
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Thanks Frank I thought so. Forgot to ask you earlier.
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:28 PM   #959
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Has anyone tried converting a 22-4 into a truggy? Do any of the truck arms mount?
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:54 PM   #960
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Has anyone tried converting a 22-4 into a truggy? Do any of the truck arms mount?
TRUGGY!!!!!!?????????? you mean something like a 4wd Stadium Truck?

Last edited by freebird; 12-18-2016 at 07:25 AM.
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