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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-09-2016, 05:18 PM   #931
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I posted a review of the 22-4 2.0 on my blog for those interested in an opinion.

http://razorrc.tumblr.com/post/15309...22-4-20-review
Did you figure out the quickest way to change spur gears?
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:25 PM   #932
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Did you figure out the quickest way to change spur gears?
Ha, no, I haven't done that yet. I've been super careful checking pinion mesh and slipper settings to make sure I don't strip out the spur.
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:32 PM   #933
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I need suggestions on keeping the set screw in the outdrives from backing out. I cleaned everything with motor spray, loctited them as tight as I could get them without breaking my hex driver. I got 5 packs thru the car and the rears are slipping again. Suggestions? Maybe red loctite?
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Old 12-09-2016, 09:20 PM   #934
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I need suggestions on keeping the set screw in the outdrives from backing out. I cleaned everything with motor spray, loctited them as tight as I could get them without breaking my hex driver. I got 5 packs thru the car and the rears are slipping again. Suggestions? Maybe red loctite?
TLR242006 I put these on. 66mm with shims. Or if you can find 67mm then you don't need the shims. Not sure? But I think there is a running change that they are now 67mm. https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...232006/p274796
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Old 12-09-2016, 10:35 PM   #935
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I think he was referring to the outdrives attached to the gear diff. Not the dog bones and cva.

It is important to clean the threads of the set screw like Frank does in his video.

However a more permanent thread locker will be stronger. I'm just not sure you will ever get the set screw out again.
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:35 AM   #936
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I need suggestions on keeping the set screw in the outdrives from backing out. I cleaned everything with motor spray, loctited them as tight as I could get them without breaking my hex driver. I got 5 packs thru the car and the rears are slipping again. Suggestions? Maybe red loctite?
Something I used to do when I raced motorcycles and couldn't safety wire the bolt in was to put a small dab of silicone over the bolt and let it dry. It worked great and was allowed by the sanctioning body. I never had one come loose doing that.
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:26 AM   #937
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I need suggestions on keeping the set screw in the outdrives from backing out. I cleaned everything with motor spray, loctited them as tight as I could get them without breaking my hex driver. I got 5 packs thru the car and the rears are slipping again. Suggestions? Maybe red loctite?
I'd be scared to use red locktite. Next time you replace the outdrives try to get them as hot as you can with a heat gun and then try the blue locktite. That's worked for me....or if you have the diffs completely out hit them with the heat gun after you re-install the outdrives....or try both methods at the same time. You need to use common sense as you could over do it. The heat really seems to help.
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:41 AM   #938
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costy race for me today... landed skewed (right front tire landed first on a triple)....


tore a right steering ballcup (first time I've seen this happen)


destroyed the front pivot


bent a left cva


....... but had awesome fun... buggy was amazing.
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Old 12-12-2016, 02:09 AM   #939
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Wow. Impressive work. That's a fair chunk of damage

The front arms are super strong.
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Old 12-12-2016, 05:27 AM   #940
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Originally Posted by ChrisUU View Post
I think he was referring to the outdrives attached to the gear diff. Not the dog bones and cva.

It is important to clean the threads of the set screw like Frank does in his video.

However a more permanent thread locker will be stronger. I'm just not sure you will ever get the set screw out again.
Solder iron on the set screw will release red lock tight.
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:36 PM   #941
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Looking at some older posts in this thread, this post didn't get enough love!

Attached is the chart I put in my manual for easy reference.

What tension are people using for the 13.5 Class? On petitrc they suggest using the lowest rear belt tension, ("D" Rear) for 17.5, but I haven't seen anything for 13.5
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:15 PM   #942
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Attached is the chart I put in my manual for easy reference.

What tension are people using for the 13.5 Class? On petitrc they suggest using the lowest rear belt tension, ("D" Rear) for 17.5, but I haven't seen anything for 13.5
Thanks for putting that chart up. I thought I was going crazy last night. According to the manual no. 4 should be the loosest setting for the side belt but when I put it in it felt tighter. I even measured it with the calipers and it's definitely making the belt tighter.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:48 PM   #943
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Originally Posted by DJPod View Post
Attached is the chart I put in my manual for easy reference.

What tension are people using for the 13.5 Class? On petitrc they suggest using the lowest rear belt tension, ("D" Rear) for 17.5, but I haven't seen anything for 13.5
When I first put the kit together, I went 0 on the middle belt, and <-A on the rear belt. That seemed about right for 13.5.

After 50 packs, the rear is a shade loose and I'm going to switch to A-> or B->
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:45 PM   #944
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When I first put the kit together, I went 0 on the middle belt, and <-A on the rear belt. That seemed about right for 13.5.

After 50 packs, the rear is a shade loose and I'm going to switch to A-> or B->
I'm 0 and D< but I'm running 17.5
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:16 AM   #945
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how do you change the belt tension? what are the benifits with a looser tension? I'm running 13.5 also
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