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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-25-2016, 10:20 AM   #886
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Originally Posted by maris View Post
You mean something like this?
It's custom made on my friends CNC + manual work.

I made it for original TLR 22-4 1.0. It's 15g heavier. At some point I put back on original plastic version, broke several of those, then put back this one despite the weight and since then have broken several sets of front arms but pivot is holding up nicely

I can share 3d model if anybody is ready to give it a try but it won't be straight forward.
Wow. How much would that cost?
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:38 PM   #887
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Landing skewed in big jumps then somersaults then hit a wall.

https://youtu.be/t9PSMg8teJY

Check out that quad at the back that ends in a 90 degree corner.

Consider this.... Second time driving a 4wd. So... Still learning getting used to it. This buggy is not friendly to first time 4wd drivers.
What motor do you have in there, seems like the acceleration/top speed is a little slow.
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:28 PM   #888
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What motor do you have in there, seems like the acceleration/top speed is a little slow.
that's my 13 yr old nephews buggy. This is 17.5 rookie class.

BTW... finally had the guts to DIY the 22-4 1.0 front pivot to fit the 22-4 2.0 ... so far the wheels and diff spins normally after I grinded the area to fit. We will see if it holds up when I run the car next week.
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:54 PM   #889
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Does anyone have experience with the skid plates that protect rear of the chassis?
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:19 PM   #890
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The skid plates work well but wear pretty quick. The one that T-Bone sells will last forever.
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:15 AM   #891
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When you run 13.5 in the buggy do you run a fan on the motor?
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:54 AM   #892
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I finally got all of my off power steering issues figured out. It was a combination of things. First, just had had soften the car up a little. Then swapping in 10 degree front caster blocks seemed to really finish getting the job done. Part of my problem was my own fault. I'm not sure how it happened but my front pivot was loose. I have Ti screws in the particular car that I've been having trouble with and I guess in an attempt to not over tighten them I didn't tighten enough. I'm really surprised the pivot didn't snap. I didn't notice it until it got so loose that I had keep adjusting my steering trim. I though that I had broken the pivot. When I checked it out.....loose, not broken.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:55 AM   #893
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When you run 13.5 in the buggy do you run a fan on the motor?
I do. I run one on both esc and motor. Sounding like a mini hoover vac
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:04 AM   #894
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I run one too on 13.5t. There seems to be a fair amount of drag with the belts even at their loosest setting, and the body fits very snugly, so my motor runs very hot. With a Muchmore fan (sucking air away from the motor), it's at 120 degrees. There's a small cut out on the front of the body in front of the motor that you can open up too.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:57 AM   #895
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For those running 13.5, what rear belt settings are you running? How loose can you go?
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:37 AM   #896
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I run one too on 13.5t. There seems to be a fair amount of drag with the belts even at their loosest setting, .
Worth note: while a belt system can seem draggy unloaded, they're very efficient under load.

It's easy to believe a shaft/gear drive would be more efficient, but under load there are shearing loads (gear teeth) and two right angles where binding and drag occur under load.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:16 AM   #897
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Worth note: while a belt system can seem draggy unloaded, they're very efficient under load.

It's easy to believe a shaft/gear drive would be more efficient, but under load there are shearing loads (gear teeth) and two right angles where binding and drag occur under load.
this def has some truth to it but i still feel a well maintained shaft car such as the xb4 has much less drag even under load.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:38 AM   #898
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Just got one of these cars and am building it up for 13.5. I noticed that the car comes with the + front belt housing to give a tighter front belt but I was wondering if there was an option to put the old style standard tension front belt housing from the 22-4 on this car to loosen the belt a little and try and free up the drive terrain a little.
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:06 PM   #899
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You can but they are the older style that would be used with ball diffs only.

I know what you are trying to do but the front belt takes a lot of abuse in hard braking if you have good traction and you can still adjust the side and rear belts if you choose.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:18 PM   #900
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How are the belts holding up on carpet tracks with a mod motor.
Thanks for your time
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