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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-08-2016, 12:37 AM   #826
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Although I don't need it, I managed to pick up TLR231045 on ebay.
I did a search and one came up.....in Britain.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:49 PM   #827
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I was going to buy two from the chaps in the old country but I managed to get one from Liquid RC who's back east.
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Old 11-09-2016, 07:51 AM   #828
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Default Rear shocks in front of arm

After much research into what a good setup would be for my 22-4 2.0 on a med/heigh to high traction indoor clay track I decided to mount the rear shocks in front of the rear arm.

The modification took about 10 minutes total. I measured it the anti roll mount location and drilled a 2.5mm hole. Then tapped with a thread rolling tap. I used the AE ball studs and B6 angled ball cups since I already had spares on hand. I am starting with a hub spacing of 5mm fwd & 1mm back.

The clearance between the shock spring and turnbuckle was minimal (<1mm) so I used 2mm of alum hub/ball stud spacers to move the top shock mount fwd and give satisfactory clearance between the shock spring and turnbuckle.

My last issue was with the shock spring contacting the anti-roll bar. To resolve this I moved the shock mount to the 2 position on the rear tower. Everything looks/works flawless now but I have one concern about not being able to mount my rear shocks in the 1 position.

Is this a typical setup change when switching to the shocks fwd setup? Is there a noticeable amount of reduction in side bite and cornering traction in using the 2 position versus the 1 position? Or does the change to the shock forward setup outweigh the reduction in side bite?

I'm going to just drive it and see for myself but I am asking here because with the multiple setup changes (shock tower position & shock location) I was worried I wouldn't be able to differentiate between the changes.
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:12 AM   #829
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Play with your hub locations. Pretty sensitive adjustment in my testing on that car.
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:27 AM   #830
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Play with your hub locations. Pretty sensitive adjustment in my testing on that car.
Thanks for the input, I'll start with wheelbase adjustments once I start dialing in my setup. The combination of the angled ball cups and upper shock mount spacing allow some flexibility in hub position, without those mods I think I'd be pretty locked in to a max of 1mm behind the hub.
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:47 AM   #831
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Yeah you need the AE angled ball stud for this to work well or go to the old style camber block and then you can space the ball stud out some. Both ways work.
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Old 11-10-2016, 08:35 PM   #832
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And a bunch of other stuff, including the chassis.
Ball diff is too much work. Gear diff would be much better for 1.0. Im not about to buy a whole kit fot that
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:00 PM   #833
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Anybody has a TLR231045 spare they can sell to me?
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:36 AM   #834
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I just bought 5 more from a shop in Finland, pretty cheap actually, all things considered. I should have them before TLR has them available. If you really wanted one you could get it. Have you considered just buying the 22-4 pivot and dremeling it to fit? Lots of people have done that. It can't be that complicated.
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:42 AM   #835
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I'm not sure how its possible but I have a couple of the 22-4 pivots. Unfortunately I don't think that I have a camera that could capture the differences. It actually took a minute or two to figure it out. All you need to do is notch the recess for the diff as the gear diffs are wider.....that's about it.
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Old 11-11-2016, 01:53 PM   #836
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I'm not sure how its possible but I have a couple of the 22-4 pivots. Unfortunately I don't think that I have a camera that could capture the differences. It actually took a minute or two to figure it out. All you need to do is notch the recess for the diff as the gear diffs are wider.....that's about it.
The bearing slots also need to be widened.
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:05 AM   #837
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I'm not sure how its possible but I have a couple of the 22-4 pivots. Unfortunately I don't think that I have a camera that could capture the differences. It actually took a minute or two to figure it out. All you need to do is notch the recess for the diff as the gear diffs are wider.....that's about it.
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The bearing slots also need to be widened.
hmmmm... I'll just wait for the original part to come. Don't trust myself DIYing parts,
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Old 11-12-2016, 10:18 AM   #838
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Thank you Frank Root, Received parts needed to fix my car this week, my frustration over the build where set aside quickly as soon as I drove this car, simply amazing, very fast and easy to drive out of the box, well worth the effort, Great car.
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:43 AM   #839
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We started running our outdoor track wet. We'll be doing that for 4 months. I'm still fighting a lack of off power steering. Any ideas? I built a car specifically for the wet season and I ended up going back to my car that's pretty much book set up. I admit that I haven't done much to the second car other than go lighter on the oils and changed to the 3.0 degree HRC rear pivot. The car just didn't feel right. I regret going to 30/30 in the diffs for sure. Its hard to tune for med/low traction and freezing temps. Now I want to try book set up with lighter oils and lighter springs (and I'll add some droop too). Traction is ok....off power steering is really bad. We have a couple of tight 180s that lead into doubles and I have to hit the brakes so hard that I'm nearly stopped to make the turns. This is the one thing the xb4 2016 did better. Since I've heard the car is sensitive to wheelbase changes I'm afraid to shorten it up. Any ideas?
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:52 AM   #840
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What are the part numbers needed to convert back to ball diffs?
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