R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree118Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-26-2016, 08:39 PM   #736
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 4,786
Trader Rating: 486 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
i know the manual suggest 84/19 for 7.5t motor. But would this be good for a medium size clay track with med/hi traction?
I bet you $100 you'd turn better lap times and be more consistent with a 13.5. Not to mention driveline parts would last twice as long. SCVRC is pretty small and they couldn't build a jump big enough that a wheeler with a 13.5 couldn't clear with ease.
__________________
Now that I've discovered the ignore list I plan to use it.....17 and counting!
QDRHRSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2016, 09:13 PM   #737
Tech Master
 
Phillip F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 1,275
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I bet you $100 you'd turn better lap times and be more consistent with a 13.5. Not to mention driveline parts would last twice as long. SCVRC is pretty small and they couldn't build a jump big enough that a wheeler with a 13.5 couldn't clear with ease.
Actually most of the 4wd racers there race with 6.5t motors
Phillip F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2016, 09:23 PM   #738
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 4,786
Trader Rating: 486 (100%+)
Default

I've been there....what does that have to do with you being faster and more consistent with a 13.5? All you need to do is go to one of the big races like the JBRL and you'll see that the 13.5 wheelers are about the same speed as the full mod buggies. Keeping in mind that open 4 whl is at a minimum an expert class. Most guys running a big motor just can't handle it. A 13.5 wheeler is like a stock buggy with killer traction. You can stay on it all the time. You can't do that with a 6.5.

Casper is sponsored by TLR. What's he running in the JBRLs?
__________________
Now that I've discovered the ignore list I plan to use it.....17 and counting!
QDRHRSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2016, 09:50 PM   #739
Tech Master
 
BRSracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Blue Springs MO
Posts: 1,555
Trader Rating: 55 (100%+)
Default

Dumb question: pulled the ball stud out of the rear hub last. Hobby shop only had the aluminum hubs in stock. Does the writing on the aluminum hubs go towards the front or back?
BRSracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 08:15 AM   #740
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mars, PA
Posts: 1,020
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodgame View Post
Lesson learned, no practice laps while 1/8 buggies are bashing. Guy jumped into my lane (head-on). I was frustrated.
I run both e-scale and 1/10 indoors and even I follow that rule . I refuse to take my 1/10 out on a track with even a couple 1/8 buggies, I know how most of those guys drive
__________________
Associated (2x)B6D, B64D, T5M, SC5M
TLR 22-4 2.0, SCTE 3.0
Mugen Seiki MBX7R Eco, MBX7R Nitro, MBX7T Eco, MBX7TR Nitro
XRAY 17 XB4
Yokomo YZ-2 CA
Wease is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 08:24 AM   #741
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,705
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

13.5 4wd is a blast to drive. That is what is popular at OCRC right now for 4wd buggy. Great class. Plenty of power and fun. 6.5 is what I use when I run modified although many guys run 5.5's.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22SCT 3.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 08:35 AM   #742
Tech Master
 
Phillip F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 1,275
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
13.5 4wd is a blast to drive. That is what is popular at OCRC right now for 4wd buggy. Great class. Plenty of power and fun. 6.5 is what I use when I run modified although many guys run 5.5's.
Which 13.5 motor is popular there in ocrc? And what gearing arč they running?... Just curious.
Phillip F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 08:55 AM   #743
Tech Fanatic
 
Xchange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Around the world
Posts: 853
Trader Rating: 10 (92%+)
Default

Guys, i'm building my 22-4 2.0 atm and i noticed that the nut of the slipper dosent go through the lock on the thread. Do you know if i need glue or reverse the nut to avoid loosing it? Also, i build with the standard specs and i found the overall transmission is pretty tight.. i guess this is normal?
Xchange is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 09:02 AM   #744
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,705
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Which 13.5 motor is popular there in ocrc? And what gearing arč they running?... Just curious.
I am running a Tekin Gen 3 13.5 and have no issues with motor in the class. I would say Schuur speed are most popular as that is what the sell in the shop but have been extremely happy with the Gen 3 Tekin spec motors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchange View Post
Guys, i'm building my 22-4 2.0 atm and i noticed that the nut of the slipper dosent go through the lock on the thread. Do you know if i need glue or reverse the nut to avoid loosing it? Also, i build with the standard specs and i found the overall transmission is pretty tight.. i guess this is normal?
Nut about flush with the end of the thread is pretty normal and should not have issues.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22SCT 3.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 09:19 AM   #745
Tech Fanatic
 
Xchange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Around the world
Posts: 853
Trader Rating: 10 (92%+)
Default

mine as at least 2mm of grip and 4mm of loose. Is the shaft has an end longer on one side than the other or it dosen't matter?
Xchange is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 10:22 AM   #746
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,383
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchange View Post
Guys, i'm building my 22-4 2.0 atm and i noticed that the nut of the slipper dosent go through the lock on the thread. Do you know if i need glue or reverse the nut to avoid loosing it? Also, i build with the standard specs and i found the overall transmission is pretty tight.. i guess this is normal?
You can reverse the nut, but you shouldn't need to. My slipper nut is usually about 50% engaged with the nylock.
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 11:30 AM   #747
Tech Master
 
BIGTIME's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,313
Trader Rating: 82 (99%+)
Default

So what are guys doing to the rear CVA's to get them free. I would like to finish building my kit and it's no way the car will be fun to drive with this type of binding. Made a call and they are on BO without an ETA.
I am pretty disappointed about that.
BIGTIME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 11:44 AM   #748
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,705
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Horizon will send out replacements. I ran mine and they were free after a run or two.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22SCT 3.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 12:07 PM   #749
Tech Master
 
BIGTIME's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,313
Trader Rating: 82 (99%+)
Default

I know they will, however they are on back order.
BIGTIME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 12:24 PM   #750
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mars, PA
Posts: 1,020
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGTIME View Post
I know they will, however they are on back order.
Mine were bound up pretty bad too. I kept switching barrels and pins until I found the combination with the least amount of bind. I also noticed that if I didn't crank the set screw down, they were more free. I used a ton of loc tite and barely snugged the set screw, but still made sure I couldn't push the pin out of the axle. After all the experimentation, I had much less bind than the first assembly, but there was still binding in the CVDs. However, after 3 or 4 practice packs, the CVDs broke in and were free. After that 4th practice pack, I pulled the set screw out, added fresh loc-tite and cranked it down and the CVDs were still free. Good to go
__________________
Associated (2x)B6D, B64D, T5M, SC5M
TLR 22-4 2.0, SCTE 3.0
Mugen Seiki MBX7R Eco, MBX7R Nitro, MBX7T Eco, MBX7TR Nitro
XRAY 17 XB4
Yokomo YZ-2 CA
Wease is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:28 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net