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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-25-2016, 02:35 PM   #721
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All other things the same, I can see that... Thank you.



Copy, like they are sitting on a disk, just rotate 180.



I am guessing the rest of your set up is to compliment the thick diff oil or are you saying you run this diff oil config on the kit stock setup? Is this on a super sticky track?

Thanks all!

Tom
What surface are you building the car for? if its not dedicated high grip(carpet/astro) I would build it stock first to get a baseline before you
flip them around.

Last years buzz word was corner speed,now its on power steering to be fast.
honestly I think the car has plenty of on power steering either way and the
shocks in the rear is easier to drive.
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:08 PM   #722
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link doesn't work.



nevermind... found another way. DUH...it's in the manual... first LOSI owner...sorry.

Last edited by Phillip F; 10-25-2016 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:31 PM   #723
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Kinda blown away that a molded part is over two weeks out, and who knows how long it has been out of stock. Well no 4wd class racing this series I guess 👎🏻
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:35 PM   #724
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It looks like they will be in stock with most major stockists early November. So looks like it could be as close as 1 week away.
Amain says nov 9th
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:38 PM   #725
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Kinda blown away that a molded part is over two weeks out, and who knows how long it has been out of stock. Well no 4wd class racing this series I guess 👎🏻
Several people have reported good luck dremeling a 1.0 part to work.
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:56 PM   #726
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first time owning a LOSI .. went to Losi Forums...what the heck is happening there? You have all these weird topics that are not R/C related. Can't even post there to ask a question. ... weird.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:26 PM   #727
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Kinda blown away that a molded part is over two weeks out, and who knows how long it has been out of stock. Well no 4wd class racing this series I guess 👎🏻
They should be there any day, Horizon got the shipments in today or yesterday.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:06 PM   #728
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i know the manual suggest 84/19 for 7.5t motor. But would this be good for a medium size clay track with med/hi traction?
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:08 PM   #729
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first time owning a LOSI .. went to Losi Forums...what the heck is happening there? You have all these weird topics that are not R/C related. Can't even post there to ask a question. ... weird.
You don't own a "Losi". Losi is more the rtr brand since the inception of TLR.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:13 PM   #730
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You don't own a "Losi". Losi is more the rtr brand since the inception of TLR.
Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 10-26-2016, 01:02 PM   #731
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i know the manual suggest 84/19 for 7.5t motor. But would this be good for a medium size clay track with med/hi traction?
6.5 is the most common and most versatile option for most people!
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:33 PM   #732
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Kinda blown away that a molded part is over two weeks out, and who knows how long it has been out of stock. Well no 4wd class racing this series I guess 👎🏻
A) It has to come from Asia.
B) The vendors aren't without other work and capable of dropping everything to make one part.
C) There is a metal part in the back that the pivots are included in.

Because of all of these 'real life' or 'behind the curtain' issues, there isn't really anything we can get over in 2 weeks.

We have worked hard to get these in as soon as possible. These are quite a few allocated to customers and dealers right now, waiting to get released off back orders and shipped. More coming soon.

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first time owning a LOSI .. went to Losi Forums...what the heck is happening there? You have all these weird topics that are not R/C related. Can't even post there to ask a question. ... weird.
It's an antique base forum that can't legitimately maintain a spam free environment. I was spending a lot of time to continuously clean it out, and couldn't any more. We are in the process of abandoning it and closing it down, although the process is not completed at this time.
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:47 PM   #733
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Hey Frank, are the new 2.0 kits arriving at the same time as the pivot block parts? I.e., were they on the same ship and likely to hit stores at about the same time?
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Old 10-26-2016, 05:22 PM   #734
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Not sure how deep horizons shipment was. But got shipping notice on pivot assembly early today. Hopefully anyone else waiting on back order has luck as well.

Best of luck
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:46 PM   #735
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A) It has to come from Asia.
B) The vendors aren't without other work and capable of dropping everything to make one part.
C) There is a metal part in the back that the pivots are included in.

Because of all of these 'real life' or 'behind the curtain' issues, there isn't really anything we can get over in 2 weeks.

We have worked hard to get these in as soon as possible. These are quite a few allocated to customers and dealers right now, waiting to get released off back orders and shipped. More coming soon.



It's an antique base forum that can't legitimately maintain a spam free environment. I was spending a lot of time to continuously clean it out, and couldn't any more. We are in the process of abandoning it and closing it down, although the process is not completed at this time.
Lesson learned, no practice laps while 1/8 buggies are bashing. Guy jumped into my lane (head-on). I was frustrated.
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