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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-20-2016, 11:01 AM   #691
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How do you like it with a 13.5?
Car is great. I have not done a dang thing to it to lighten it up either. If I stick with 13.5 might put her on a little diet but ran top 3 at Surf City with the car and have had great club race results with it against some stiff competition running it stock so just having fun with the car in the class.

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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I run my car with a 13.5 and love it. Casper made a comment to my buddy [on the drivers stand] @ a JBRL about how good the 22-4 2.0 is and how my buddy should get one. Unfortunately, my friend is Sponsored by Kyosho and could only share that recommendation with me. I'm glad he did. Although my friend and his ZX6 ended up #1 in the JBRL series this year he loves the 22-4 2.0....he just can't run one. I have not had a single issue yet with mine after 3 weeks of racing. I'm not super fast or aggressive but I do crash like everybody else and, knock on wood, nothing has broken. I don't have any upgrades installed on the car yet. Just like Frank root has said numerous times the book set up is excellent. We're working on a second car now for our winter wet series in a month. We'll see how the 22-4 2.0 does where my XRay use to excel. So far the TLR has not disappointed.
I was just ribbing Eddie (he's a good guy) but glad you took the advice and switched over. The 22-4 has been a great car from the get go and the 2.0 just built on that. I have fun driving the car and have made very few adjustments to it and it drives like a dream. Need to toss in my 6.5 though and do some mod runs with it but 13.5 has been a blast.
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Old 10-20-2016, 12:57 PM   #692
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Hi Gents,

I m wondering if anyone experienced issues with the pulley with premature usure ?

Also does it require a long shake down in order to be perfectly set?

I read that many people upgrade the rear springs with the Kyosho ones or Avid ?
Last question would be what is the best gear to use with a 6.5 ?

Thanks,
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:21 PM   #693
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Pulleys last a long time. Set to the kit specifications for tension and you should be good.

After a run or two car is ready to rock. Sets the bone to outdrive bind which is typical for any car and your good to go.

Setups are up to you. I am running it with box stock springs right now and love the car. You driving preference and track conditions will determine if you need or want to change the setup.
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:37 PM   #694
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Avid Will no longer make the purple front spring. Just run the kit blues from the 22T.

Gearing is track specific, check the manual.
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:55 PM   #695
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Trading in my roller for this buggy. Does the buggy accept Losi wheels? AE wheels doesn't work with it?

Last edited by Phillip F; 10-21-2016 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:02 PM   #696
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Trading in my roller for this buggy. Does the buggy accept Losi wheels? AE wheels doesn't work with it?
AE rear wheels would work. Not fronts. The Wheels from the 1.0 are the same for the 2.0.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:45 AM   #697
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Default Aluminum front pivot

I have 2 22-4 2.0. Cars both on the shelf with broken front pivots . It is the only part that I have busted on these cars. Multiple times. Why not a aluminum one ? like I have on my 22 3.0.
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:00 AM   #698
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I have 2 22-4 2.0. Cars both on the shelf with broken front pivots . It is the only part that I have busted on these cars. Multiple times. Why not a aluminum one ? like I have on my 22 3.0.
That would be a big heavy part. If you make the pivot out of aluminium, whatever is next inline will break. The force has to go somewhere. The current plastic front pivot is strong enough. For everyone that is breaking front pivots man you must be having some bad crashes. That's not what the car was designed for.
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:32 AM   #699
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I have 2 22-4 2.0. Cars both on the shelf with broken front pivots . It is the only part that I have busted on these cars. Multiple times. Why not a aluminum one ? like I have on my 22 3.0.
Three reasons:
1. The front pivot doesn't break easily, or unwarranted. It takes a big hit to break one.
2. It would be a VERY expensive part to make, from a huge piece of aluminum and a ton of machining time.
3. With an aluminum pivot, the arms, pin strap and pivot are all stronger, some might start to break chassis... which is an entirely different story... one nobody wants to tell...lol
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:30 PM   #700
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Frank , well any idea when the part will be available ? i modified one from a 22-4 1.0 today to get it back on track.
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:43 PM   #701
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Frank , well any idea when the part will be available ? i modified one from a 22-4 1.0 today to get it back on track.
It looks like they will be in stock with most major stockists early November. So looks like it could be as close as 1 week away.
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:01 PM   #702
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Frank , well any idea when the part will be available ? i modified one from a 22-4 1.0 today to get it back on track.
Front pivots should be in this week.
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Old 10-23-2016, 09:11 PM   #703
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This car has been the best 1/10 ive driven. Im runni g pretty close to box setup, only minor changes. The harder i drive it, the faster it wants to go. It begs to be driven strapped. Its like the force, just let go and trust the car.I simply cant say enough, Its friggin awesome, makes me look good.
13.5 is pretty good, but 8.5 is more fun, and just barely faster. No temp issues or breakage issues. Only thing i have broken is the servo linkage ball end.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:22 AM   #704
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Frank, what would be the benefit to say running 20k in the diffs versus running the 50k.
The diffs will feel looser, and that diff will rotate quicker and drive less.
So if your car is diving in too hard, and hooked exiting, you would thicken the front diff oil? And if your car is entering perfect, but over rotating on exit, you would thicken the rear diff oil?
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:26 AM   #705
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Hey frank, instead of drilling a hole in the rear arm to run the shocks on the front can I just simply flip the rear arms?
Turning the arms around is the only way I have seen it, the hole is drilled for the
sway bar mounts, stuff moves pretty fast in the setup world so maybe i am behind.
Flipping the arms over but leaving them on the same side? Or flip sides also? I don't know if the left and right arms are exactly the same yet... I just ordered my kit a week ago. It should be at my LHS by Thursday.
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