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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-18-2016, 12:29 PM   #676
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Any possibility of making the front pivot out of the Stiffezel material ? Just thinking out loud . . . not sure if it is an option . . .

#22Empire
That is some pretty old material there. I am sure they are looking into the bulkhead issue again. I never broke one after the old steel front brace and the new hinge pins. Not sure why the issue came up again. I have not had an issue with my 22-4 however still running 13.5 class with mine.
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:52 PM   #677
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Sorry if this has been answered, but I couldn't find anything...

When reversing the rear a-arms to mount the shocks in the front, do I have to install the (2) 2mm shims that space out the hub in reverse as well?

Stock set up is (2) 2mm shims behind the hub and (2) 1mm shims in front of the hub. Do I install the (2) 2mm shims in front of the hub?

Thanks
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:55 PM   #678
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You may be able to tell by serial number if you knew when they came in. Not sure if TLR marked the box at all. I think Horizon CS has bones if yours are bad. Mine broke in fine after the first few runs.
Thanks Casper.

Decided to upgrade from my 1.0, local track installed astroturf and season starts in Nov.

What upgrades would you suggest I put on to trick it out for astro as best as possible? I already have the sway bar kit from the 1.0. Is there a good setup out there somewhere? Petit RC's site is down.

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:57 PM   #679
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I would upgrade the tunnels and put gear diffs in for carpet for sure. Carpet guys really like the shock in front of the tower as well. I would do those two things.
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:41 PM   #680
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I would upgrade the tunnels and put gear diffs in for carpet for sure. Carpet guys really like the shock in front of the tower as well. I would do those two things.
Sorry, I should clarify, I am going to buy a 2.0, so the gear diffs will be there. Is there any other mod or option part you would recommend for the 2.0 on astro, or a good setup somewhere online?

Thanks and sorry for the confusion.
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:52 PM   #681
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alum servo arm, belcrank, and belcrank arm. I like clamping rear hexes. Other than that the kit includes the rest.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:18 PM   #682
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Sorry if this has been answered, but I couldn't find anything...

When reversing the rear a-arms to mount the shocks in the front, do I have to install the (2) 2mm shims that space out the hub in reverse as well?

Stock set up is (2) 2mm shims behind the hub and (2) 1mm shims in front of the hub. Do I install the (2) 2mm shims in front of the hub?

Thanks
I reversed my arms and never really thought about this. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the hub spacing would remain the same. In fact, I raced mine with the arms flipped/shocks in front and the kit hub spacing and I thought the car was dialed. I know that doesn't answer your question exactly, but my point is that it handled pretty darn well with the kit hub spacing
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:45 PM   #683
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With respect to running the rear shocks on the front side of the arm, there are clearance issues I've found with the turnbuckle rubbing the shock spring, so I run 4mm front and 1mm back hub spacing. I also installed a set of AE angled ball cups on the inside camber link. You'll need to drill out the AE ball cups with a 1/8 bit to allow the thicker 3.5mm TLR turnbuckle to thread into the AE cup. I also added two 1mm of spacers to the shock tower mount to try and stand the shock up straighter. JR Mitch did this for a race back in early September, if you google him he has a blog and photos.
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:49 PM   #684
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Has anyone tried running the shorter rear driveshaft that dakotah and maifield were running at nationals (with the 22-4 hubs and +1.5 hexes)? If so, what changes did that make to how the car drove?
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:51 AM   #685
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Has anyone tried running the shorter rear driveshaft that dakotah and maifield were running at nationals (with the 22-4 hubs and +1.5 hexes)? If so, what changes did that make to how the car drove?
Maifield ran those for one pack, and went back to the stock 22-4 2.0 rear suspension parts.

They make the car rotate much quicker and generally makes it feel freer.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:53 AM   #686
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That is some pretty old material there. I am sure they are looking into the bulkhead issue again. I never broke one after the old steel front brace and the new hinge pins. Not sure why the issue came up again. I have not had an issue with my 22-4 however still running 13.5 class with mine.
I only mentioned it based on the fact that it is being used on the 'stiffer' 22 3.0 side rails that were recently released . . . .
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:11 PM   #687
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That is some pretty old material there. I am sure they are looking into the bulkhead issue again. I never broke one after the old steel front brace and the new hinge pins. Not sure why the issue came up again. I have not had an issue with my 22-4 however still running 13.5 class with mine.
How do you like it with a 13.5?
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:47 PM   #688
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I run my car with a 13.5 and love it. Casper made a comment to my buddy [on the drivers stand] @ a JBRL about how good the 22-4 2.0 is and how my buddy should get one. Unfortunately, my friend is Sponsored by Kyosho and could only share that recommendation with me. I'm glad he did. Although my friend and his ZX6 ended up #1 in the JBRL series this year he loves the 22-4 2.0....he just can't run one. I have not had a single issue yet with mine after 3 weeks of racing. I'm not super fast or aggressive but I do crash like everybody else and, knock on wood, nothing has broken. I don't have any upgrades installed on the car yet. Just like Frank root has said numerous times the book set up is excellent. We're working on a second car now for our winter wet series in a month. We'll see how the 22-4 2.0 does where my XRay use to excel. So far the TLR has not disappointed.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:34 PM   #689
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I run my car with a 13.5 and love it. Casper made a comment to my buddy [on the drivers stand] @ a JBRL about how good the 22-4 2.0 is and how my buddy should get one. Unfortunately, my friend is Sponsored by Kyosho and could only share that recommendation with me. I'm glad he did. Although my friend and his ZX6 ended up #1 in the JBRL series this year he loves the 22-4 2.0....he just can't run one. I have not had a single issue yet with mine after 3 weeks of racing. I'm not super fast or aggressive but I do crash like everybody else and, knock on wood, nothing has broken. I don't have any upgrades installed on the car yet. Just like Frank root has said numerous times the book set up is excellent. We're working on a second car now for our winter wet series in a month. We'll see how the 22-4 2.0 does where my XRay use to excel. So far the TLR has not disappointed.
Making me want one. Gosh I really don't need another car haha
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:40 AM   #690
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Any possibility of making the front pivot out of the Stiffezel material ? Just thinking out loud . . . not sure if it is an option . . .

#22Empire
That would make it break much easier. Harder = more brittle/less give before breaking.
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