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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 10-04-2016, 02:28 PM   #616
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Frank and the rest of the TLR team,

All I've got to say is, THANK YOU! This car is amazing. I built mine, raced it for the first time on Saturday and it was just in domination mode. In qualifying I was able to post my first 30 lap run at the track and my 22-4 2.0 came home in P1 on its maiden voyage into racing. Box setup, box fluids, 13.5 D4, this car is an awesome improvement to the already awesome 22-4 1.0. I can't wait to dive deeper into tuning options and different setups.

I did run into one problem when I was building the car. The gears inside the diff (rear) didn't seat all the way when I was tightening the screws on the case...the screws felt like they were tightened. On the day I stopped by the track to shake the car down, the drive train really started to bind after a few laps (was free before I put the car down). Because the gears didn't seat all the way, it allowed the diff case screws to stick out about one millimeter. They shredded the screw side's belt tensioner, both belt covers (where the grooves are for the tensioners), and the screws were caked with plastic. Dumb mistake on my part, but after picking up replacement parts, the drivetrain is as free as it should.

Again, thanks to Frank and all involved from TLR on making the 22-4 2.0!
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Old 10-04-2016, 06:30 PM   #617
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Is it normal to have a good amount of back and fourth play in the inner hinge pins on the rear suspension arms. The instruction don't show any washers needing to be installed...the play seems excessive.

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2016, 07:28 PM   #618
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I found the play excessive as well. I'm not sure if it's play in the arm or built into the hinge pin inserts. Mine is currently in tear down but I plan to use shims upon rebuild to tights things up.
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Old 10-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
Is it normal to have a good amount of back and fourth play in the inner hinge pins on the rear suspension arms. The instruction don't show any washers needing to be installed...the play seems excessive.

Thanks
There needs to be a .5-.7mm shim there. The same ones that go inside the shocks.
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Old 10-04-2016, 07:47 PM   #620
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I think you mean page 35, Kevin.

It's in the manual for the 22-4 1.0, but was omitted/missed in the 2.0 manual. In any event, do what Kevin says
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:23 PM   #621
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Originally Posted by CCristo View Post
I think you mean page 35, Kevin.

It's in the manual for the 22-4 1.0, but was omitted/missed in the 2.0 manual. In any event, do what Kevin says


oops
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:28 PM   #622
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it looks to be 22 3.0 manual
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:03 PM   #623
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Yeah my bad lol
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Old 10-05-2016, 08:42 AM   #624
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Ok thanks for that info, also what things could I change or adjust to get more on power steering or just more steering in general, with out sacrificing to much rear stability? I tried 30 diff fluid up front and did not really like that...so what other things could I try?

Thanks
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Old 10-06-2016, 09:30 AM   #625
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Shimming is needed as there is some clearance designed in that area to account for the toe settings so with low tow in like we are running there will be some play and a little shimming solves it.
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Old 10-06-2016, 09:53 AM   #626
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Does anyone know who might make aluminum 3.5mm shims for the shock shafts & rear hinge pins? Seems like only plastic available?
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:02 AM   #627
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Not sure you would want them on the shocks as they may damage the finish on the shafts. I thought I saw someone who made some but can't find them anymore.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:26 AM   #628
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Good point.
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Old 10-06-2016, 02:21 PM   #629
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https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-...101025/p267405

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...709037/p298029

https://www.amainhobbies.com/serpent...110412/p233739

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...709058/p298937

May need a few per side but this would probably work. Not sure if the 10mm is too big on the OD but I doubt it.

found a few of these on Amain that would be good for the rear arm shimming
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Old 10-07-2016, 06:39 AM   #630
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Thanks Casper - I did a poor search for "3.5mm shim" and did not get half those results.

What body are most of you guys running for indoor? The JC Silencer seems popular, any reason for it other than it is different from the TLR cab forward body? Any noticeable handling characteristics?
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