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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 09-20-2016, 09:12 AM   #571
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Originally Posted by mrcdub01 View Post
What all would I need to buy for the 22-4 2.0, as in optional parts to make it durable and very competitive.
TLR331018
TLR334009
TLR334010, TLR334011, TLR334012 (depending on the servo you have)
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:21 AM   #572
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Thanks Frank
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:34 AM   #573
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Any recommendation on getting a stripped out setscrew out of my outdrive?
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:42 AM   #574
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An MIP tool!

Did you thread lock it in place?

You can use a demel and cut it off through the screw then replace the outdrive

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR232049
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:54 PM   #575
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An MIP tool!

Did you thread lock it in place?

You can use a demel and cut it off through the screw then replace the outdrive

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR232049
I only use mip hex drivers.....and yes I treadlocked it. Luckily it's stripped on the side that doesn't need to be removed to change the fluids. Guess I'll have to dremel the outdrive off when it needs replaced.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:47 PM   #576
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I'm out of commission until I can get my hands on a front pivot brace.
Broke today
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:30 PM   #577
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I'm out of commission until I can get my hands on a front pivot brace.
Broke today
still shows December.......
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:33 AM   #578
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Does anyone have a part # for the 68mm rear universals.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:40 AM   #579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
what would be the diff oil setup for loose loamy outdoor track? type of track where goosebumps are the tire of choice.
So for the loose outdoor surface I removed the rear sway bar and lighten'd shocks to 27.5 and 22.5, removed all the shock limiters. And set diffs to 20 in the front and 10 in the back. I also removed shims on the camber block in the rear end. It took me a while to get this new car to drive like the 1.0 but now that I have it dialed it's a great car! Belts are lasting longer, I haven't lost a ball cup yet. It feels more consistent and it seems to handle mid corner bumps a lot better. I am excited to see what it does on the carpet this winter.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:56 AM   #580
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still shows December.......
It should be about a month from now. The purchasing department manages the dates and won't update them until they have hard info.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:17 AM   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
It should be about a month from now. The purchasing department manages the dates and won't update them until they have hard info.
Thanks for the update Frank, any time in October is a lot better than December
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Old 09-21-2016, 04:17 PM   #582
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yea, i hear ya...my car is dialed but I'm a little concerned about breaking the pivot until more are available so I'm waiting, this car is the absolute best 4wd i have ever owned so I'm itching to get back on the track. I was wondering if there is a metal replacement , however I probably would stay with the plastic as there needs to be some give, I'd rather replace a pivot than arms or hinge pins as it is super quick and easy, overall this car is extremley durable..love it
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Old 09-21-2016, 04:20 PM   #583
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The hinge pin update (forever ago) and the steel arm brace should keep the front pivot in one piece. I don't remember breaking a pivot since those two upgrades. It can be done but is much harder to do.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:21 AM   #584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
The hinge pin update (forever ago) and the steel arm brace should keep the front pivot in one piece. I don't remember breaking a pivot since those two upgrades. It can be done but is much harder to do.
The 2.0 came with the updated hingepins, and the Steel brace from the 1.0 car doesn't fit on the 2.0 car... does it? The shape of the chassis on the 2.0 in front doesn't have the 90 degree angles for the brace to slide into like the old car had.
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:27 PM   #585
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The 2.0 has a steel front brace. It is different style then the 1.0 but is no longer alum.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodId=TLR03007

see item #13
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