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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 09-15-2016, 05:43 PM   #556
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Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
Did you remember to install the ball diff shims over the outdrives before you put it in the belt tunnel?
Good point...
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Old 09-16-2016, 06:42 PM   #557
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Frank,

any update on front pivot tlr231045?

thanks
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:07 PM   #558
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That is correct. Good luck finding some. If you do find some you better stock up on them.
Does the front pivot break a lot?
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:57 AM   #559
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Did you remember to install the ball diff shims over the outdrives before you put it in the belt tunnel?
Yes I did, I ended up installing the axle shin from the 22 3.0. This helped.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:03 AM   #560
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Hello everyone!

first, sorry for my poor English...

I can get me a 22.4.2.0, I like the design. It seems that there are some problems with the belts on high grip like carpet or astro. I imgine that as usual, some guys haven't the problem but for those who have it, whats going on?. They break, they jump over the pulleys, the teeth wear out quickly, teeth pulleys wear out and blow up the belts? On dust or clay track, it also happens? Is that their reliability is comparable to that of Cat K1 / K2,?
For you, as regards the buggy in general, what are the points to be checked , what are the option parts that are essential?

thank you in advance for the feedback!
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:46 AM   #561
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Frank,

any update on front pivot tlr231045?

thanks
Not yet, there was a holiday the end of this week in Asia.
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:50 PM   #562
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Does the front pivot break a lot?
The car is very durable, but in a big enough impact something has got to give! I have seen 5 locals break pivots, and none of those 5 have broken arms or anything else on the front end.

Nothing on the car breaks a lot, but in a front end crash the front pivot is the part you are most likely to break.
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:26 PM   #563
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Quick plug for horizon customer service. Called regarding the rear axels binding and he offered to send out a new set before I could even finish telling him what was wrong. This support is what made me switch from AE. Thanks and keep up the great work!
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:03 PM   #564
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Looking at this buggy.. anyone here have direct experience with the d413 and 44.3? I'm tossing around all three until I pull the trigger.

Thanks
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:07 PM   #565
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Looking at this buggy.. anyone here have direct experience with the d413 and 44.3? I'm tossing around all three until I pull the trigger.

Thanks
i have owned every 4wd buggy on the market. the d413 requires you to drive the buggy aggressive. the 44.3 always breaks, the xb4 2016 is very expensive and has lots of tunning options (not much in US support), 22-4 2.0 is smooth and durable. doesnt need to be man handled.

22-4 2.0 was the best one for me. xray was my 2nd option
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:08 PM   #566
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Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
i have owned every 4wd buggy on the market. the d413 requires you to drive the buggy aggressive. the 44.3 always breaks, the xb4 2016 is very expensive and has lots of tunning options (not much in US support), 22-4 2.0 is smooth and durable. doesnt need to be man handled.

22-4 2.0 was the best one for me. xray was my 2nd option
Thanks for sharing your experience. I can get the d413 for $370 and parts should be available in late October or early November. I was looking at that, then the AE car, lastly the 22-4.

I've been researching more and can see very high build quality on the 22-4 2.0 Parts are also easier to come by.

The associated seems good but front arms break often from what I hear. Nothing that a few RPM arms can't fix.

If you had to do it all over again, I'm assuming the tlr is the way you'd go?
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:37 AM   #567
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Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
i have owned every 4wd buggy on the market. the d413 requires you to drive the buggy aggressive. the 44.3 always breaks, the xb4 2016 is very expensive and has lots of tunning options (not much in US support), 22-4 2.0 is smooth and durable. doesnt need to be man handled.

22-4 2.0 was the best one for me. xray was my 2nd option
Thanks for that info, I wanted to know the same thing
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:40 AM   #568
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What all would I need to buy for the 22-4 2.0, as in optional parts to make it durable and very competitive.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:07 AM   #569
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Originally Posted by mrcdub01 View Post
What all would I need to buy for the 22-4 2.0, as in optional parts to make it durable and very competitive.
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like the setup out of the box has been pretty competitive (aside from flipping the rear arms and rear shock locations on the tower?) and pretty durable. Also seems like it's the front pivots are the only parts that are being reported as breaking...after an incredibly hard hit I'd imagine.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:08 AM   #570
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What all would I need to buy for the 22-4 2.0, as in optional parts to make it durable and very competitive.
Electronics.

I would recommend alum servo arm, and alum belcrank arm. If you are running modified then alum belcranks as well. Other than that the car comes very well equipped. I prefer clamping hexes on all my cars.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR334009
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR334010
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR331018
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2930

At a minimum alum servo arm
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