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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 09-13-2016, 08:35 AM   #541
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Will that lightweight chassis fit ?
No. Slightly different at the front bulkhead. Besides it's not really lightweight other than the hole where the motor is. The new chassis works really well.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:41 AM   #542
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Aluminum steering rack and the A/B horn, also clamping hexes.
If you are doing all of that you need an alum servo arm as well.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:20 AM   #543
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Are the front pivots, part #TLR231045, really due to be back in stock in December as indicated on TLR's website? I need a replacement, and there are none to be found anywhere
Working on this right now.
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:46 PM   #544
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Hey frank what esc settings are you using on your r10.1?
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:07 PM   #545
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Working on this right now.
The front pivot is the first thing that I finally broke on my 2.0 car -- there's a double on the new layout that all of the 4wd cars have been breaking on landing. I managed to snag 3 of them from A-Main before they went out of stock everywhere, 2 of them were handed out to other local drivers so I'd have someone to race against last Saturday.

I race at the same track as Fabulous (Trackside in Milwaukee), and our big race is coming up on November 1st. If we can't get these until December we won't be able to run in the big race if we break... and we'd like to put up a few podium spots at a race now sponsored by "Not TLR"

Also for anyone that wants to check out some 13.5 4WD racing stats etc, you can find my car's racing and practice history here:
http://rcscoringpro.com/driver/817/

Or watch some of our past races on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyz...6xhu2QbX1ck6Ow

Disclaimer: I am the developer for rcscoringpro.com. We are currently beta testing our web scoring with a few tracks, but we will be making it FREE for all tracks/track owners when it is publicly available. Fill out our contact form if you'd like to know more about it instead of replying on this thread please
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:21 AM   #546
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Hey frank what esc settings are you using on your r10.1?
For/Brake
Drag Brake = 5%
DRRS = 5
Brake Force = 87.5%
Initial Brake = Drag Brake
Neutral Range = 9%
Boost = 3
Turbo = 3

This is with an Orion 5.5T geared 16/84.

Quote:
Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
The front pivot is the first thing that I finally broke on my 2.0 car -- there's a double on the new layout that all of the 4wd cars have been breaking on landing. I managed to snag 3 of them from A-Main before they went out of stock everywhere, 2 of them were handed out to other local drivers so I'd have someone to race against last Saturday.

I race at the same track as Fabulous (Trackside in Milwaukee), and our big race is coming up on November 1st. If we can't get these until December we won't be able to run in the big race if we break... and we'd like to put up a few podium spots at a race now sponsored by "Not TLR"
It won't be December, we'll have them in sooner. Working on it now, we just can't update the date until we have solid info.
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:41 AM   #547
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
For/Brake
Drag Brake = 5%
DRRS = 5
Brake Force = 87.5%
Initial Brake = Drag Brake
Neutral Range = 9%
Boost = 3
Turbo = 3

This is with an Orion 5.5T geared 16/84.



It won't be December, we'll have them in sooner. Working on it now, we just can't update the date until we have solid info.
Excellent, at least that means I can run some club races in the mean time
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:39 AM   #548
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Hey currently running2x1.5 front and 3x1.4 rear thinking of going to 2x1.7. What will I gain or loose when I do that. Also I need the part number for the axle shim. My dog bone keeps on coming out.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:03 AM   #549
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Hey currently running2x1.5 front and 3x1.4 rear thinking of going to 2x1.7. What will I gain or loose when I do that. Also I need the part number for the axle shim. My dog bone keeps on coming out.
The axle shims only come with the driveshaft sets. On the 22-4 2.0, if you're running the CVA bones that came with the kit (68mm), you shouldn't be popping them out.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:05 AM   #550
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Hey currently running2x1.5 front and 3x1.4 rear thinking of going to 2x1.7. What will I gain or loose when I do that. Also I need the part number for the axle shim. My dog bone keeps on coming out.
Going to 2x1.7 piston should give the feeling of less pack. Less resistance when landing or going through bumps. Should also give the feeling of slightly more traction especially if you keep the rear oil the same. Schelle Racing and Avid have awesome piston charts that are very useful. I would check it out.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:15 AM   #551
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Going to 2x1.7 piston should give the feeling of less pack. Less resistance when landing or going through bumps. Should also give the feeling of slightly more traction especially if you keep the rear oil the same. Schelle Racing and Avid have awesome piston charts that are very useful. I would check it out.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:17 AM   #552
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The axle shims only come with the driveshaft sets. On the 22-4 2.0, if you're running the CVA bones that came with the kit (68mm), you shouldn't be popping them out.
Thanks Frank

Running 22-4 2.0 with stock cva's that came with kit and ball diffs with 31mm stroke and popped out the dog bones 2x so far. Thinking of going to 30mm stroke. unless I'm doing something wrong.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:04 PM   #553
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Thanks Frank

Running 22-4 2.0 with stock cva's that came with kit and ball diffs with 31mm stroke and popped out the dog bones 2x so far. Thinking of going to 30mm stroke. unless I'm doing something wrong.
Check the etching on the driveshafts to be sure it is 68mm. I've not heard of anyone having this issue at all, so they might be something a little off
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:31 PM   #554
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Hey currently running2x1.5 front and 3x1.4 rear thinking of going to 2x1.7. What will I gain or loose when I do that. Also I need the part number for the axle shim. My dog bone keeps on coming out.
Kyosho makes the shims you are looking for. Their 5x7x1mm and work just fine. Part# KYOW0149. Have your local hobby shop order them or I know Amain Hobbies stocks them.
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:18 PM   #555
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Did you remember to install the ball diff shims over the outdrives before you put it in the belt tunnel?
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