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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 09-06-2016, 05:03 PM   #526
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Can anyone steer me in the right direction please? I just want to make sure that Part# TLR334014 is a direct replacement for the rear hubs on the 2.0. If not could anyone point me into the right direction? TIA
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:18 PM   #527
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Can anyone steer me in the right direction please? I just want to make sure that Part# TLR334014 is a direct replacement for the rear hubs on the 2.0. If not could anyone point me into the right direction? TIA
Those are very close. They are missing the inside most camber link location compared to the stock hubs, but we really don't run that hole, so they should work great for you.

There is no 100% same aluminum version of the 22-4 2.0 hubs at the moment.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:24 PM   #528
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Hey frank, instead of drilling a hole in the rear arm to run the shocks on the front can I just simply flip the rear arms?
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:47 PM   #529
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Hey frank, instead of drilling a hole in the rear arm to run the shocks on the front can I just simply flip the rear arms?
Turning the arms around is the only way I have seen it, the hole is drilled for the
sway bar mounts, stuff moves pretty fast in the setup world so maybe i am behind.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:11 PM   #530
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Those are very close. They are missing the inside most camber link location compared to the stock hubs, but we really don't run that hole, so they should work great for you.

There is no 100% same aluminum version of the 22-4 2.0 hubs at the moment.
Thank you for the reply Frank, nothing are wrong with my stock plastic ones ATM. I just wanted to replace them with aluminum in case of the plastic ones breaking and to have a back up set. I will definitely try them out though.
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:57 AM   #531
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Hey frank, instead of drilling a hole in the rear arm to run the shocks on the front can I just simply flip the rear arms?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Turning the arms around is the only way I have seen it, the hole is drilled for the
sway bar mounts, stuff moves pretty fast in the setup world so maybe i am behind.
What he said.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:44 AM   #532
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Can anybody suggest what changes to make so the car carries a little more speed through tighter corners? Car is very solid and jumps and lands awesome ..so don't want to sacrifice any that if possible. thanks
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:24 PM   #533
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Can anybody suggest what changes to make so the car carries a little more speed through tighter corners? Car is very solid and jumps and lands awesome ..so don't want to sacrifice any that if possible. thanks
I feel you, I had the same issues, I went full kit with these changes, green truck front spring instead of blue to get a little bit more rotation out of the front, along with running a thinner rear sway bar (biggest change I felt), takes 180's a lot better then kit without having to change much. YMMV, but it really dialed mine in to the new layout which is 180 happy. It didn't change jumping much if at all, it's still the best car out there for jumping.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:37 PM   #534
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Can anybody suggest what changes to make so the car carries a little more speed through tighter corners? Car is very solid and jumps and lands awesome ..so don't want to sacrifice any that if possible. thanks
I would play with rear hub positions as well as lower the front diff oil if you are running stock 50K
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:32 PM   #535
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I would play with rear hub positions as well as lower the front diff oil if you are running stock 50K
Something next to try on my list when I get the time, but the changes I made, had my car 99% there without going into stripping it down mode which was necessary since I didn't have much time.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:35 AM   #536
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Are the front pivots, part #TLR231045, really due to be back in stock in December as indicated on TLR's website? I need a replacement, and there are none to be found anywhere
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:35 AM   #537
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Are the front pivots, part #TLR231045, really due to be back in stock in December as indicated on TLR's website? I need a replacement, and there are none to be found anywhere
That is correct. Good luck finding some. If you do find some you better stock up on them.
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:16 PM   #538
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I'm getting the 2.0 in a couple days. Any upgrades I need to start? Also will the shorty lightweight chassis work for the 2.0? ( TLR 338002) I'm running 13.5
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:41 AM   #539
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I'm getting the 2.0 in a couple days. Any upgrades I need to start? Also will the shorty lightweight chassis work for the 2.0? ( TLR 338002) I'm running 13.5
Aluminum steering rack and the A/B horn, also clamping hexes.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #540
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Aluminum steering rack and the A/B horn, also clamping hexes.
Will that lightweight chassis fit ?
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