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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-23-2016, 09:15 AM   #481
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Any recommendations on electronics?

Finishing up the build on my 2.0 and am interested in running the 13.5 class at OCRC.

Motor?
ESC?

Also servos... I picked up the spektrum s6240 servo and it seems like it won't work. It's low profile so the base of it is right in line with the "jack shaft"...

Frank it appears you're running the same servo - maybe I am missing something


Thanks in advance!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3QFlvbuHNw

Ryan covered this on the included video
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:29 AM   #482
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Any recommendations on electronics?

Finishing up the build on my 2.0 and am interested in running the 13.5 class at OCRC.

Motor?
ESC?

Also servos... I picked up the spektrum s6240 servo and it seems like it won't work. It's low profile so the base of it is right in line with the "jack shaft"...

Frank it appears you're running the same servo - maybe I am missing something


Thanks in advance!
Hobbywing Stock Spec 3.1 and Motiv 13.5 motor.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:57 AM   #483
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Hobby wing stuff is fine. I am running Tekin RSX (I normally run mod but if you want to save weight no better option then RS Gen 2 or RS spec) and the Tekin Gen 3 13.5 is keeping up with all the other hot motors out there.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:05 AM   #484
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Perfect thank you
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Old 08-23-2016, 12:42 PM   #485
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Ok looking at the Tekin stuff since that's what I run on my 4.0E


Thabks
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Old 08-23-2016, 12:43 PM   #486
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The version 255 software is amazing to an already great ESC.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:14 PM   #487
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What is the part number for the little 5x7.5x1mm shim/washers TLR uses on their axles? I lost one and looked everywhere for a replacement or equivalent. Closest thing I could find is 5x7x0.5mm.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:30 AM   #488
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What is the part number for the little 5x7.5x1mm shim/washers TLR uses on their axles? I lost one and looked everywhere for a replacement or equivalent. Closest thing I could find is 5x7x0.5mm.
It's not sold by itself. It comes with all of the kits, and all of the CVA packages.
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:37 AM   #489
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What is the part number for the little 5x7.5x1mm shim/washers TLR uses on their axles? I lost one and looked everywhere for a replacement or equivalent. Closest thing I could find is 5x7x0.5mm.
If you get really desperate you can get a Kyosho 5x7x1, W0149GM. I don't know if the difference between 7.5 and 7 is critical because I personally don't have this car.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:20 AM   #490
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What is the part number for the little 5x7.5x1mm shim/washers TLR uses on their axles? I lost one and looked everywhere for a replacement or equivalent. Closest thing I could find is 5x7x0.5mm.
Traxxas also sells an axle shim set that works. I'm not sure of the part number.
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:39 PM   #491
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what kind of track ans surface razorbelly? thx
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One of the outdoor tracks is a small-ish (75' x 75') slick to med traction with lots of 180 degree turns with 23 sec lap times and the other is a larger outdoor track (90' x 120' ) slick to med/high traction with sweeping turns and 30 sec lap times. Have yet to try it on the indoor blue groove track.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:28 PM   #492
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
What is the part number for the little 5x7.5x1mm shim/washers TLR uses on their axles? I lost one and looked everywhere for a replacement or equivalent. Closest thing I could find is 5x7x0.5mm.
You can get them here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-sh...a338586/p13887

TLR doesn't have them on their own as Frank mentioned, I tried also to get some when doing the 1.0 rear end conversion. However XRAY sells them in packs...
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:47 PM   #493
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You can get them here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-sh...a338586/p13887

TLR doesn't have them on their own as Frank mentioned, I tried also to get some when doing the 1.0 rear end conversion. However XRAY sells them in packs...
Thanks, I ended up getting a Kyosho 5x7x0.5mm Shim Set. Of course 5mins after I clicked ok on the order, I found the missing TLR shim, haha!
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:04 PM   #494
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Thanks, I ended up getting a Kyosho 5x7x0.5mm Shim Set. Of course 5mins after I clicked ok on the order, I found the missing TLR shim, haha!
that seems to never fail to happen
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Old 08-25-2016, 05:24 AM   #495
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You can get them here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-sh...a338586/p13887

TLR doesn't have them on their own as Frank mentioned, I tried also to get some when doing the 1.0 rear end conversion. However XRAY sells them in packs...
You could also use the Kyosho shims. Kyow0149 these are 1mm and 2mm.
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