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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 08-10-2016, 12:04 PM   #436
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It is vertical, NOT side to side, my finger is pressed firmly against the insert..it is moving up and down,

thanks
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:31 PM   #437
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So back to my original question, is this vertical play intended for some reason or it a issue with the part.

Thanks
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:42 PM   #438
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If you can't get a pic or video uploaded here I'll send you my number and text me a few pics
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:45 PM   #439
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video is uploaded pg 29
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:39 AM   #440
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I only have 11 pages.

Here is the post to the video, click here.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:25 PM   #441
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So no ideas if this is normal or a part issue?? this is on the 2.0 buggy
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:36 PM   #442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I've ran it a couple of race nights already, so the belts shoukd have gone through the initial stretching, but if it is normal to feel some drag then it may be fine. I had a sensor go bad in my LRP motor, which I replaced, but it may still be the issue. I'll swap motors and see if that was the problem. Thanks.
There will be some drag, but it should be crazy bad.

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Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
So back to my original question, is this vertical play intended for some reason or it a issue with the part.

Thanks
Not intended. I looked at mine, and it has a touch, nothing crazy. It has not affected performance at all on my car
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:48 PM   #443
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Ok, mine has almost 1 mm of up and down play, my concern, being its rear diff that takes a lot of the force, is if your running a low turn motor(I run a 5.5) would this have any adverse affect on the diff, as it is essentialy teetering/floating in the back of mine, but if your saying yours does it also and its fine, then that's good enough for me and 'll just drive it as its is the nicest driving 4 wheeler I have owned.

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Old 08-11-2016, 02:03 PM   #444
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Again the rear diff is always under tension due to the belt where a gear car I think this would be worse.
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:27 PM   #445
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Default Ball diffs for 22-4 2.0

What parts do I need to build a front & a rear ball diff for the 22-4 2.0 other than, 2 sets of TLR232017 (outdrives). 1 of TLR232026 (pulley set) 1 of TLR232018 (diff rings) and 2 of TLR237000 bearings?
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:02 AM   #446
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Spring, Screw, Diff Nut, Thrust bearing, Diff balls, clear grease and you probably already have black grease from the build.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:51 PM   #447
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Shocks

Does anyone know what rear shocks come with the TLR 22-4 2.0?

I see in the kit Yellow Standard Frequency (2.0 lbs/in is listed) but when I compare them to Yellow Low Frequencies (2.06), they feel the same {I know the measurement is close, I want the real numbers}.

Anyone know the measurements for both?

Last edited by dcmaho92588; 08-13-2016 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:29 PM   #448
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Each spring will measure slightly different if you have a good way of measuring them. The numbers posted by TLR are pretty accurate.
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:49 PM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorbelly View Post
What parts do I need to build a front & a rear ball diff for the 22-4 2.0 other than, 2 sets of TLR232017 (outdrives). 1 of TLR232026 (pulley set) 1 of TLR232018 (diff rings) and 2 of TLR237000 bearings?
TLR232017 x 2 Outdrives
TLR232026 x 2 22-4 Diff Service Kit
TLR237000 x 2 Bearings
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:22 PM   #450
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Frank, great performance by the 22-4 this weekend.....Total domination! What diff fluids were the guys running in Omaha? Hopefully you'll post all the a-main setups!
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