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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-21-2016, 12:02 AM   #346
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Jake is a pretty savvy racer, and text me the same gearing. I know we gear 28/69 in 17.5 2wd, which a lot of people will say is slow... but that's the fastest gearing for OCRC and SDRC with Schuur Speed Motors.
We are gearing 28-29 / 69 in New York in 17.5. Cars are blazing
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:04 AM   #347
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Anyone know which tooth spur gears come with the TLR 22-4 2.0?
84T
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:57 AM   #348
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Sad thing is not too many people really know how to accurately use the data logger. This is the most helpful tuning tool I have ever had. Now that Tekin has the adjustable freq......it's hands down the best speedo on the market.

preach on....the new esc software is awesome....
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:58 AM   #349
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I'm still running the 1.0 but my teammates that have the 2.0 we all ran 13.5 4wd at the Jconcepts in Chico. We were geared 78/25 &26 with Team Powers 13.5 The track isn't very big. I don't think we were under powered. Our gearing is usually the same as guys running Reedy motors and R1's. Hope this info helps

same as we are gearing at trackside with motiv and tekin gen3
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:42 PM   #350
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any updates on the replacement rear shafts?

Thanks
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:32 PM   #351
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Ya, the 3mm pin in my bone broke loose again. My wheeler is going to sit until the bones are ready. I've chewed through enough of my nice aluminum rear camber block as it is.
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:32 PM   #352
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any updates on the replacement rear shafts?

Thanks
Any day now, just waiting here impatiently...
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:37 PM   #353
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I just built my kit this week. I had pretty severe binding in the rear CVD,s. Instead of filing out the slot like some have done. I replaced the centre barrel with old worn ones from my parts supply of old 22 vehicles. This completely solved the issue. No binding at all.

I believe Frank said in an earlier post that the binding is due to the pin hole in the barrel being slightly off too the set screw.

I believe if you replace the barrel it should fix the binding issue. It did for me.
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:39 PM   #354
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I just built my kit this week. I had pretty severe binding in the rear CVD,s. Instead of filing out the slot like some have done. I replaced the centre barrel with old worn ones from my parts supply of old 22 vehicles. This completely solved the issue. No binding at all.

I believe Frank said in an earlier post that the binding is due to the pin hole in the barrel being slightly off too the set screw.

I believe if you replace the barrel it should fix the binding issue. It did for me.
It can for sure. Once we have "good" bones, you will be able to use new barrels and everything will fit great.
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:53 PM   #355
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Ok, thanks for the update Frank
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:31 PM   #356
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
84/26 is way under geared for 13.5, I'm guessing you meant 78/26? You really can't gear the car properly for 13.5 with the 84t spur, there isn't enough room to fit a big enough pinion.
Car hauls ass and is competitive, didn't need to open it up and change the spur which is probably part of why it was recommended, we could just drop in a 13.5 and we have had 10-12 car heats.

The class is very cool.

Here it's called "The Truth".
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Old 07-22-2016, 10:59 PM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Jake is a pretty savvy racer, and text me the same gearing. I know we gear 28/69 in 17.5 2wd, which a lot of people will say is slow... but that's the fastest gearing for OCRC and SDRC with Schuur Speed Motors.
How much motor timing people usually use with that gear ratio in OCRC?
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Old 07-23-2016, 02:46 AM   #358
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Default Diffs binding?

I'm building my new car and I get to the diffs and no matter what I do they just bind up solid. The 2 gears that are suppose to be elevated, and not engage the pinion are set too low and cause it to bind. Anyone else having this issue? I haven't heard about it so I must be doing something wrong. I've triple checked the orientation of the gears and it's directly by the manual.
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Old 07-23-2016, 02:53 AM   #359
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That does sound a little odd. It would be unlikely that this is a manufacturing issue. When I built my diffs I followed the detailed video that frank put up on his TLR Facebook page. I found it very helpful. I didn't use the manual for this step in the build.

Give it a look, it may shed some light.

Sorry I cannot be of anymore help
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:26 AM   #360
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How much motor timing people usually use with that gear ratio in OCRC?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbenmbx7t View Post
I'm building my new car and I get to the diffs and no matter what I do they just bind up solid. The 2 gears that are suppose to be elevated, and not engage the pinion are set too low and cause it to bind. Anyone else having this issue? I haven't heard about it so I must be doing something wrong. I've triple checked the orientation of the gears and it's directly by the manual.
Not heard of this at all, they might be something not built correct. Jump on the Team Losi Racing FB page, there is a video of the 22-4 gear diff build.
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